boost tube installed
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: ARIZONA
boost tube installed
well, reinstalled my boost tube, and now the the roads are dry, i noticed a huge difference today, maybe the moons were in line or something.
so, im getting on the highway in stock tune, (currently 9 deg).
engine at good temp. so i start to merge and a newer chevy wont let me in.
so now the peddle is on the floor and i make enough room to squeeze in front of him and hes on my ***, so i keep it to the floor and i distance myself, but when i looked down @ 100 mph, 800 deg and 25 psi in a stock tune. i about shat myself, i hadnt been that high in the stock setting before, i even double checked the setting, i couldnt believe it, the most i had seen in stock was 22 psi. and 65 mph to 100 took maybe 10 seconds or so,
any way.............so, any one ever seen 25 in stock setting, if so, boost tube increase at WOT is approx. 3 psi.
so, im getting on the highway in stock tune, (currently 9 deg).
engine at good temp. so i start to merge and a newer chevy wont let me in.
so now the peddle is on the floor and i make enough room to squeeze in front of him and hes on my ***, so i keep it to the floor and i distance myself, but when i looked down @ 100 mph, 800 deg and 25 psi in a stock tune. i about shat myself, i hadnt been that high in the stock setting before, i even double checked the setting, i couldnt believe it, the most i had seen in stock was 22 psi. and 65 mph to 100 took maybe 10 seconds or so,
any way.............so, any one ever seen 25 in stock setting, if so, boost tube increase at WOT is approx. 3 psi.
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Elder User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: ARIZONA
i havent noticed any fuel mileage difference, im getting 10 with and without tube.
with lots of warm up time being as i havent seen temps over 20 in a couple months. been one cold azz winter.
and i was gettin 15 mpg this past summer daily driven in town. before all the mods. so im hoping i will see a big mpg. increase this summer once the fuel changes and the weather warms up.
with lots of warm up time being as i havent seen temps over 20 in a couple months. been one cold azz winter.
and i was gettin 15 mpg this past summer daily driven in town. before all the mods. so im hoping i will see a big mpg. increase this summer once the fuel changes and the weather warms up.
Postmaster
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by dfuser
what kills mileage is a heavy foot!
This is what Banks told me when I visited there awhile back. They were providing their customers with a zener diode "fix", to clamp to voltage to the MAP sensor to avoid SES due to over boost, but got so many reports of reduced mileage they stopped using that approach.
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Nope, Not it!
What do you think a driver is doing when they know they can run 25+ lbs of boost? They are driving their Engine hard...Which leads to low mpg.
I can tell you by adding the Boost tube and either the Dual Relief Valve or MAP Mazimizer that we offer, you will NOT loose MPG if you drive normally and not like you stole it. The combination allow you to add more air, which should help the Engine run cooler and more effiecent. Less black smoke which means you are burning the fuel and not wasting it.
What do you think a driver is doing when they know they can run 25+ lbs of boost? They are driving their Engine hard...Which leads to low mpg.
I can tell you by adding the Boost tube and either the Dual Relief Valve or MAP Mazimizer that we offer, you will NOT loose MPG if you drive normally and not like you stole it. The combination allow you to add more air, which should help the Engine run cooler and more effiecent. Less black smoke which means you are burning the fuel and not wasting it.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
Ernest the boost tube doesn't effect the MAP it only holds the waistegate closed a bit longer allowing more boost on the top end but the PCM will still defuel at 24psi.
dfuser - I think you are on to the root of the problem here, with the boost tube i did see 17-20 psi more often than the 10-13psi i saw without it, but I have traced mileage issues to a faulty MAP on my truck.
dfuser - I think you are on to the root of the problem here, with the boost tube i did see 17-20 psi more often than the 10-13psi i saw without it, but I have traced mileage issues to a faulty MAP on my truck.
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Postmaster
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by amiller93
Ernest the boost tube doesn't effect the MAP it only holds the waistegate closed a bit longer allowing more boost on the top end but the PCM will still defuel at 24psi.
dfuser - I think you are on to the root of the problem here, with the boost tube i did see 17-20 psi more often than the 10-13psi i saw without it, but I have traced mileage issues to a faulty MAP on my truck.
dfuser - I think you are on to the root of the problem here, with the boost tube i did see 17-20 psi more often than the 10-13psi i saw without it, but I have traced mileage issues to a faulty MAP on my truck.
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Well I do not use the diode approach. I get 17-20 mpg with the boost tube and Dual Relief Valve Both Installed.
The boost tube delays the openning of the waste gate to allow more Boost
The Dual Relief Valve allows the MAP to see amx of 22-24 lbs of boost and that is only when boost is over 22 lbs.
With both installed your MAP signal is not altered.
So I am not sure how you can loose MPG unless you are driving your engine hard!
The boost tube delays the openning of the waste gate to allow more Boost
The Dual Relief Valve allows the MAP to see amx of 22-24 lbs of boost and that is only when boost is over 22 lbs.
With both installed your MAP signal is not altered.
So I am not sure how you can loose MPG unless you are driving your engine hard!
Last edited by dfuser; Mar 17, 2007 at 12:42 PM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Central, Al
Its on Pure diesel power or dfusers web site.
It connects between the red line and the waistegate actuator and bleeds off about 1.5 psi of waistegate control pressure.
The WG solenoid regulates between 5 and 8 psi of pressure to the actuator through the red line, the waistegate starts to open at 5 psi and is fully open at 8 psi (regulated pressure not boost pressure). The solenoid uses the green line to dump pressure back to the intake when no actuation of the waistegate is required.
It connects between the red line and the waistegate actuator and bleeds off about 1.5 psi of waistegate control pressure.
The WG solenoid regulates between 5 and 8 psi of pressure to the actuator through the red line, the waistegate starts to open at 5 psi and is fully open at 8 psi (regulated pressure not boost pressure). The solenoid uses the green line to dump pressure back to the intake when no actuation of the waistegate is required.
Senior User
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Linden, VA
Why not just unplug the waiste gate actuator? I've heard people say they do it and tried it myself. I saw no real changes so I plugged it back in. If less pressure (on the actuator) means more power than theoretically, no pressure should be max power.
Postmaster
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From: Fulltime RVer
My wastegate control system!
My plug-in 70 HP Superchip disables all PCM control of the wastegate actuator. My boost would typically run at 26-28 psi for miles on end while pulling grades. After wearing my turbo bearing out at 50K miles, I decided to take it a little easier on the replacement turbo so I came up with this scheme for doing so, Click for full size image
I now adjust my maximum boost by using a second spring in compression that works against the stock spring to reduce its tension. I guessed on the initial amount of compression, and clamped one end in place on the actuator rod, and the other end butts against the actuator housing. Through trial and error, I kept inserting slotted washers to increase the compression until I got just the right amount of overall tension to limit my maximum boost to 20-22 psi when towing up a grade.
I now adjust my maximum boost by using a second spring in compression that works against the stock spring to reduce its tension. I guessed on the initial amount of compression, and clamped one end in place on the actuator rod, and the other end butts against the actuator housing. Through trial and error, I kept inserting slotted washers to increase the compression until I got just the right amount of overall tension to limit my maximum boost to 20-22 psi when towing up a grade.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by amiller93
Its on Pure diesel power or dfusers web site.
It connects between the red line and the waistegate actuator and bleeds off about 1.5 psi of waistegate control pressure.
The WG solenoid regulates between 5 and 8 psi of pressure to the actuator through the red line, the waistegate starts to open at 5 psi and is fully open at 8 psi (regulated pressure not boost pressure). The solenoid uses the green line to dump pressure back to the intake when no actuation of the waistegate is required.
It connects between the red line and the waistegate actuator and bleeds off about 1.5 psi of waistegate control pressure.
The WG solenoid regulates between 5 and 8 psi of pressure to the actuator through the red line, the waistegate starts to open at 5 psi and is fully open at 8 psi (regulated pressure not boost pressure). The solenoid uses the green line to dump pressure back to the intake when no actuation of the waistegate is required.
Postmaster
Joined: Jun 2006
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From: Fulltime RVer
Originally Posted by dfuser
Well I do not use the diode approach. I get 17-20 mpg with the boost tube and Dual Relief Valve Both Installed.
The boost tube delays the openning of the waste gate to allow more Boost
The Dual Relief Valve allows the MAP to see amx of 22-24 lbs of boost and that is only when boost is over 22 lbs.
With both installed your MAP signal is not altered.
So I am not sure how you can loose MPG unless you are driving your engine hard!
The boost tube delays the openning of the waste gate to allow more Boost
The Dual Relief Valve allows the MAP to see amx of 22-24 lbs of boost and that is only when boost is over 22 lbs.
With both installed your MAP signal is not altered.
So I am not sure how you can loose MPG unless you are driving your engine hard!
BTW, I have one of these valves (don't know if it's your brand because it in storage) and I've measured the above effect on mine using an air compressor with a regulator and a gauge! Any one that wants mine can have it for free, just send a PM.