Just some more info---
There is no rust on the tailgate now. Don't you think that the oil will repell rainwater that gets inside the tailgate? Would the bedliner spray hold water? thanks--GB

 

I've never heard of the oil thing. If I were you, I would try painting it with a rust stopper like POR15 or Carroless. If you use one of those, I don't think you will ever have to worry about the inside rusting. You might want to try drilling a few drain holes as low on the inside of the tailgate as you can, to improve drainage.

 

Hello FTE's,
I was talking to a "seasoned" body person the other day about how bronco tailgates are notorious for rusting out. He offered a suggestion of pouring a 1/2 q or so of tranny fluid into both doors and the tailgate and to drive around for a few days to let it slosh around(in order to penetrate the seams and whatnot), and then clean up the mess that will spill out of the weep holes. He said that this will buy some time before the rust crops up.
Has anyone done this or heard of this? If I do this, am I looking at a lifetime wiping oil from my bumper? I'd rather do that then repair rust anyday. Mine's still healthy and I'd like to take some action to fight off the inevitable.
Any thoughts or comments? Thanks-GB

'89 XLT
'96 XLT

 

It won't help until you actually replace your tailgate, but I've heard of prople using spray in bedliner inside of thier tailgates when you first install a new one to make it so it won't rust as readily. Mine is just starting to rust out at the bottom, so I have not had the chance to try it yet, but I think when I do have it done I'll just spray the whole thing with some color matching bedliner and never worry about it again.

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 21-Jun-02 AT 08:56 PM (EST)]Once you spray in the bedliner water would have a hard time getting under it. I'm not saying it's imposible, but if done right I don't think you'd have any problems. Drilling the extra holes in the bottom is a good idea also, but make sure you put something on the edges of the holes, as you don't want to give the rust somewhere to start.

 

Some food for thought on the POR-15 idea mentioned..... as was suggested, I would start with a new tailgate. Otherwise, you may want to try one of the other ideas (the tranny fluid / used oil method has been brought up in the Bodywork board before; you may want to do a search there.) From my experience, I took an Arizona '85 Bronco that had no tailgate, quarter panel, or wheel well rust-through and stripped the whole truck down to nice, shiny bare metal. There was no visible rust-through on the truck. I could tell I was heading for a potential problem in the quarters, as I reached up inside from under the truck and found dirt and sand sandwiched in the valley area between the inner and outers. Using a variety of tools, the shop vac, and a blow gun, I cleaned what I believed to have been all of the dirt out, as well as disassembling my gate to shell form, and cleaning it out (no visible rust on the inside.) I then thinned some POR-15, and painted the insides of the gate and doors, along with the floorpans (over and under) and frame, and took real pains (including getting that non-removable %&*@! all over my arms!) to soak the inside valley area between the inner and outer quarters, above the wheel wells. My thoughts were geared towards 110% prevention. I prepped and painted the truck from there, which was accomplished two years ago. Guess what I'm doing this summer? I'm replacing both quarters, and the rear gate. Within a year, both began to rust through, where no previous problems were apparent prior to my "prevention". What happened? I'm thinking I had a rust problem just starting to begin, between the areas where panels overlapped and joined inside the gate and panels. When I soaked everything with POR-15, it sealed it tight. The rust had one place to go - out through the metal. I may be wrong in my explanation, but I've got to believe that all of my sealing over an existing problem (of which I wasn't fully aware) accelerated the rust-through of the panels. POR-15 is really great stuff, but in some ways, too great. I'm planning to use it again this summer, in the NEW gate and behind the NEW quarter panels, but I'd think twice about sealing up a joint between two panels with it unless you are absolutely sure that the metal is not contaminated. Just my $0.02, apologies for the novel.

 

Use motor oil. It absolutely works. Oil undercoating and spraying oil into doors, tailgates, body panels, door pillars and inside the inner hood panel is very common here in VT. Police, fire and municipal vehicles are done twice a year with great results. The excess oil takes about a week to leak out and it is reccommended you don't wash it off until a week has past (the drips on the outside).

Around here in VT it cost about $30-$40 to have it done and they use motor oil. Trans fluid is not sticky enough and gear oil stinks so new or used oil is the best.

Bob

 

I have used a product in the past that is a 'rust converter'. You paint, spray or pour it onto an area that is already begun to rust. It combines, chemically with the steel and the oxidation to form a hard new protective coating - and stops the rust from getting worse. It works better if you can remove any loose rust from the area first - kind of hard in the bottom of a door or tailgate...

If you can get to all the rust spots, this stuff really works great. I have used an old tank type garden sprayer - with a long brass tublar spray head to reach into tight places.

I don't know the product's name, but you might ask for a 'rust converter' product at your local hardware or paint specialist store.

 

Rust!! I really appreciate everyone's response. Living here in RI (heart of the rust belt)... I've gotta do something soon. I didn't do anything with my '89 (young & stupid) and now it needs some body work. I'll try just about anything... well... almost anything to prevent the rust. So i'm gonna have at it with a couple quarts of oil and a turkey baster.

Thanks again--GB

'89 XLT
'96 XLT

 

mexray... thx for the reply. Is the stuff your thinking of called instant galvanize? I have seen it used in welding applications to prevent rust on weld beads/seams. I should probably take stock of what's in the garage, cause I've got a can of it. Wasn't even thinking of that! Anyway... I think the oil thing is a good idea. My only concern is that the oil will hold more dust and dirt which in turn will hold moisture. --GB

 

That's the idea. Well, Vermont is sure in the rusting mainstream due to all our salted roads in the winter. The oil will also arrest the current rust from spreading.

Bob

 

Nope it does not hold too much dust and the dust it does hold is "oil impregnated" and repels moisture.

Bob

 

Just FYI I used the Extend (rust converter) about 2 years ago, and although it bought me some time the rust is coming through again. If you have rust already started, it will get through sooner or later.

 

I agree. Extend and other rust converter chemicals will stop problems for a while, but left by themselves, the rust will eventually find its way through them. I've been running an experiment which involved using Extend, and then topcoating it with POR-15. In theory, the Extend neutralized the rust, and the POR-15 sealed the area away from air and moisture. Three years, so far, and all is well.....