Front pinion nut
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Tuned
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 390
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From: Maine
Front pinion nut
I noticed a minor leak at the pinion seal last fall (running in 2wd), and I kind of forgot about it until recently. I heard a minor clakity clack, so I crawled under the truck, and noticed the driveshaft was a bit loose. No big deal, u-joint, right? Actually, the nut holding the yoke to the pinion shaft is loose. 
Well, I guess I could just crawl under there and tighten it, but was wondering if i should replace the yoke, or clean and apply loctite to the splines, etc. What else am I going to find under there? Hmmmm... I ran in 2wd all winter, and now that it is springtime, i am needing 4wd to get in and out my road for the next coupla weeks.....
Thanks all, and happy spring!
Well, I guess I could just crawl under there and tighten it, but was wondering if i should replace the yoke, or clean and apply loctite to the splines, etc. What else am I going to find under there? Hmmmm... I ran in 2wd all winter, and now that it is springtime, i am needing 4wd to get in and out my road for the next coupla weeks.....Thanks all, and happy spring!
Senior User
Joined: Nov 2006
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From: SFV, CALIFORNIA
Originally Posted by F250Wheels
That nut that holds the yoke also sets the pinion bearing preload, you can not just tighten it real tight. Infact once that nut is backed off you are suppost to install A new cruch sleave and reset preload.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
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Loctite the pinion nut, not the splines. Also, get a new nut. Most are designed to go on only once.
The yoke should be fine. Remove front axle shafts (far enough to get the carrier out), remove carrier, remove pinion, install new crush sleeve (you may want to consider new pinion bearings) torque pinion nut until you begin crushing the sleeve then go real slow until you get about 15 in. lbs of preload. This is an approx. number for used bearings, I'm not sure what the exact spec. is for a Dana 50. If you exceed the top end of the spec. you will have to install a new crush sleeve and pinion nut and start over. Also, you will need an in. lbs. dial torque wrench to measure pinion preload.
I've built a few diffs. and installed some lockers, but I'm by no means a diff. expert, so don't necessarily take this as the gospel.
Also, above is the "correct" way to do it. You may want to try loctiting the nut and tightening it up to about 150 ft. lbs. If you do take this short cut, you risk not having the correct pinion bearing preload, which if left unchecked could possibly destroy most of the front diff.
Good luck, and hollar if you have any more questions.
Oh yeah, don't forget to install the new seal too. I left that out.
The yoke should be fine. Remove front axle shafts (far enough to get the carrier out), remove carrier, remove pinion, install new crush sleeve (you may want to consider new pinion bearings) torque pinion nut until you begin crushing the sleeve then go real slow until you get about 15 in. lbs of preload. This is an approx. number for used bearings, I'm not sure what the exact spec. is for a Dana 50. If you exceed the top end of the spec. you will have to install a new crush sleeve and pinion nut and start over. Also, you will need an in. lbs. dial torque wrench to measure pinion preload.
I've built a few diffs. and installed some lockers, but I'm by no means a diff. expert, so don't necessarily take this as the gospel.
Also, above is the "correct" way to do it. You may want to try loctiting the nut and tightening it up to about 150 ft. lbs. If you do take this short cut, you risk not having the correct pinion bearing preload, which if left unchecked could possibly destroy most of the front diff.
Good luck, and hollar if you have any more questions.
Oh yeah, don't forget to install the new seal too. I left that out.
Last edited by johnjk; Mar 18, 2007 at 02:18 AM.
