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finished installing my pillar gauges - ISSPRO's - pyro/boost/tranny temp .. in a burlwood 3 gauge pillar. That came as a set so both pillars are burlwood. Also while doing the boost gauge I put it in the AIH port so did the AIH delete as well. (the existing thermocouple for the EGT's in place for my Edge worked on my ISSPRO gauge)
I have a 4 gauge pod for above the rear view mirror that's ready to go (had to move the rear view mirror and antenna for the alarm so that's done as well.
Tomorrow, if the weather holds, Sonnax shift kit goes in.
On my new windshield, I did not have to move the mirror to mount the gauge pod. The clearance was perfect where the button was attached from the factory. The old windshield though, the button needed to be moved down...and that didn't go so well. Hence, the new windshield.
Is the Burlwood pods like a woodgrain design? That might look pretty good, depending on what the rest of the interior looks like. What is in the four overhead gauge spots?
okay well my rearview mirror is an SVT brand that has rear view video in it so it's almost 4" wide .. I had to adjust THAT because it's clipped on the stock mirror .. the stock alone would have been fine.
Kris - yeah it's a burlwood / woodgrain that matches Ford's interior .. I have a lot of burlwood in my truck - tan interior so I like that look.
The 4 gauge pod will have - water temp, volt meter, fuel pressure, and air pressure (on board air) .. 3 of those gauges will be Sully gauges ... Dfuser.com sells them now.. full sweep electrics that look NICE .. the air pressure gauge will be a digital cyberdyne air pressure in green to match the Sully's..
this gives you an idea of why i went with burlwood pillars .. and you can see the big rearview mirror
Last edited by TNT in Round Rock; Mar 14, 2007 at 09:32 PM.
it's really easy .. there are 2 wires on the existing fitting .. one black and one red .. i don't like loose wires so I traced them and removed them - the ground is on the drivers side of the block in the valley. The red one goes to the GPR. When you remove that, there's also a blue wire on the GPR. Put that one back on .. then remove the whole fitting wires and all. That's about it .. put in your delete plug and get it snug against the washer .. then the compression fitting !
Thanks I was hoping it was that easy. I need to replace my MAP line, it was T'd for the boost gauge and I am losing boost, got any advice for that? Thanks again
I can do that, it would be alot easier than replacing the line. I am pretty sure the line is leaking at the T. I should be able to get the fitting at NAPA or ACE hardware correct?
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