The BEST heater Core....
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
The BEST heater Core....
.... where can you get it? There seems to be a growing number of us FTE-ers right now who are getting ready to replace our heater core.
IS there a best replacement core available? Where? If not, where have you guys found your best price? I've got a little time before I have to put one in, but not much, and I want to go ahead and start things moving in that direction (including 203° thermostat, system flush, new "shut tight" heater valve, and extra coolant filtration).
IS there a best replacement core available? Where? If not, where have you guys found your best price? I've got a little time before I have to put one in, but not much, and I want to go ahead and start things moving in that direction (including 203° thermostat, system flush, new "shut tight" heater valve, and extra coolant filtration).
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
Posts: 5,584
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Pete, whats wrong with current heater core? I've got 7 years and 230K+ on mine and no runs, drips, coolant smell, or errors, and the heat works in the winter... anything in particular I should be looking for.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Brandon:
Since running the AC a little bit this weekend, I am detecting a coolant odor in the cab. It's not yet bad enough to fog the windshield or drip, but I can smell it clearly, even though it is still very faint. I know what it means, and am making plans to tackle it and the other tasks mentioned above soon.
When looking online this afternoon, I noticed heater cores being labeled or branded as OEM, "aftermarket", and "OE replacement by Four Seasons". The Four Seasons unit that has the aluminum core seems to be running about $10 higher than their "copper brass" unit ($65 and $55 respectively). The "aftermarket" units seem to be running in the $37-$47 price range, while the OEM units are running $45-$85.
I don't know if the aluminum core is a better unit or not, but I've seen some casual references in my search indicating that the Ford units are aluminum cores as well. I know that the aluminum core will exhibit a much higher heat transfer rate than the "copper brass" unit by a factor of 2-3x.
Since running the AC a little bit this weekend, I am detecting a coolant odor in the cab. It's not yet bad enough to fog the windshield or drip, but I can smell it clearly, even though it is still very faint. I know what it means, and am making plans to tackle it and the other tasks mentioned above soon.
When looking online this afternoon, I noticed heater cores being labeled or branded as OEM, "aftermarket", and "OE replacement by Four Seasons". The Four Seasons unit that has the aluminum core seems to be running about $10 higher than their "copper brass" unit ($65 and $55 respectively). The "aftermarket" units seem to be running in the $37-$47 price range, while the OEM units are running $45-$85.
I don't know if the aluminum core is a better unit or not, but I've seen some casual references in my search indicating that the Ford units are aluminum cores as well. I know that the aluminum core will exhibit a much higher heat transfer rate than the "copper brass" unit by a factor of 2-3x.
Posting Guru
Joined: Dec 2006
Posts: 2,498
Likes: 3
From: Windsor, Colorado
good luck!! My heater core was replaced 3 times by the dealer from around 80000 to 90000 miles, they always had an excuse for the failure, but apparently they finally got a good one because I havent had any problems for about 50000 miles now.
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Joined: Apr 2004
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From: Port Murray, NJ
When looking online this afternoon, I noticed heater cores being labeled or branded as OEM, "aftermarket", and "OE replacement by Four Seasons". The Four Seasons unit that has the aluminum core seems to be running about $10 higher than their "copper brass" unit ($65 and $55 respectively). The "aftermarket" units seem to be running in the $37-$47 price range, while the OEM units are running $45-$85.
I don't know if the aluminum core is a better unit or not, but I've seen some casual references in my search indicating that the Ford units are aluminum cores as well. I know that the aluminum core will exhibit a much higher heat transfer rate than the "copper brass" unit by a factor of 2-3x.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 5,497
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From: Central, Al
Just because you smell coolant in the cab dont jump to the heater core. the heat and AC normal draws air from the outside and can suck an under hood smell into the cab.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
I've wondered about that a bit, Alan. Wherever it's coming from, it still hasn't got to the point of dripping, yet. I thought about opening up the AC ductwork and inspecting it before committing to a core purchase. For sure, I'm going to do some more intense poking around under the hood and in the dash this Friday afternoon.
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Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Originally Posted by amiller93
Look under the water pump pulley, mine had a small drip from the weep hole and I was thinking heater core from the smell with heat on till I crawled under and saw the spatter marks.
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Joined: Nov 2006
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From: North of Greenville
Alan... did you end up changing out your WP?
Both Alan and Brandon... Is the OEM water pump the best repalcement option, or is there some other aftermarket unit that does a better job. I know that there are better water pumps out there, but from what I've read, it almost seems like they're not necessary or justified unless your racing, which I am not.
I also looked into the waterless coolant replacement option, but that's something like $200-$250 just for the coolant ($33 per gallon, twice the Rotella ELC price). The Rotella ELC is a whole lot more economical and probably more appropriate for my kind of driving.
Your're right, Brandon, if I have to go through the full system drain for a pump, or heater core, I'm ready to go ahead and flush the system, use the Rotella ELC, install the 203° stat/housing, and instlal the "shut-tight" heater valve at the same time.
Both Alan and Brandon... Is the OEM water pump the best repalcement option, or is there some other aftermarket unit that does a better job. I know that there are better water pumps out there, but from what I've read, it almost seems like they're not necessary or justified unless your racing, which I am not.
I also looked into the waterless coolant replacement option, but that's something like $200-$250 just for the coolant ($33 per gallon, twice the Rotella ELC price). The Rotella ELC is a whole lot more economical and probably more appropriate for my kind of driving.
Your're right, Brandon, if I have to go through the full system drain for a pump, or heater core, I'm ready to go ahead and flush the system, use the Rotella ELC, install the 203° stat/housing, and instlal the "shut-tight" heater valve at the same time.
Post Fiend
Joined: Sep 2006
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From: Millbrook Alabama
Pete, I got 200K out of my original pump, and so I just went back with the stock one from the parts house. At that time I had not learned about the 203* so I did not upgrade, nor did I install the inline heater hose valve. Wish I had, but hind sight is 20/20
Lead Driver
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 7,413
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From: Columbia, MO
I used an Airtex pump, which I like better because the elbow at the bottom is a one piece molded part. Not a bolt on piece like the stock pump. My stock one was leaking at that point. I'm pretty sure that's the one that Alan used too.
I got mine off eBay, but did notice the other day that O'Reilly's carries Airtex pumps. I think NAPA may sell them as well. If I had known that, I would have gotten mine locally.
I got mine off eBay, but did notice the other day that O'Reilly's carries Airtex pumps. I think NAPA may sell them as well. If I had known that, I would have gotten mine locally.
