Mag Wheel Lugnuts
Thread Starter
|
Senior User
Joined: Aug 2006
Posts: 129
Likes: 0
From: Salem, OR
Mag Wheel Lugnuts
I have a set of 16.5x9.75 turbine style mag wheels on my truck. They use the funky shaft style lugnut that has a barrel that threads inbetween the wheel and the stud. I have a problem whenever I want to put the wheels back on the truck.
It seems like the wheel studs aren't long enough because I have to start threading the lugnut on while also trying to center the shaft into the hole in the wheel. Do I need to get longer studs with open style lugnuts, or is this a standard problem with this setup?
It seems like the wheel studs aren't long enough because I have to start threading the lugnut on while also trying to center the shaft into the hole in the wheel. Do I need to get longer studs with open style lugnuts, or is this a standard problem with this setup?
Post Fiend
Joined: Jul 2006
Posts: 6,948
Likes: 44
This is a typical problem with this type of wheel .I still have a set of those old western wheel mags that I use to drive the truck arund when I dont run the beadlocks.
Not a cheap deal to replace all of those wheel studs, that would be 32 studs, and 32 new nuts, not cheap to do.
I have gotten pretty good at installing them with a small bar under the tire. Once I set the wheel on the studs, I rotate the wheel until I get one to the top, and lift with the bar slightly. The nut will fit inside of the hole enough to start the threads. After I run it down a little (not tight) I then wiggle the bar until I can start another nut. All it takes is two, and the rest will align, and almost go on by themselves. It takes a little practice, and patience. You will never win a Nascar pit crew competition with this style wheel, but you will get good at it in no time.
Hopefully, you are not having to remove them all of the time.
Hope this helps.
Not a cheap deal to replace all of those wheel studs, that would be 32 studs, and 32 new nuts, not cheap to do.
I have gotten pretty good at installing them with a small bar under the tire. Once I set the wheel on the studs, I rotate the wheel until I get one to the top, and lift with the bar slightly. The nut will fit inside of the hole enough to start the threads. After I run it down a little (not tight) I then wiggle the bar until I can start another nut. All it takes is two, and the rest will align, and almost go on by themselves. It takes a little practice, and patience. You will never win a Nascar pit crew competition with this style wheel, but you will get good at it in no time.
Hopefully, you are not having to remove them all of the time.
Hope this helps.
Post Fiend
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 13,873
Likes: 3
From: Atlanta GA
> this a standard problem with this setup?
Yes, it is. You can get longer lugs, BUT, if they bottom out before tightening all the way down it means the wheel will come off. Plus, if you have longer studs, they will push through the top of the lug nuts or will not seat all the way down. Been there, done that.
What you need is a stud only about 1/4" longer and they do not come in those increments and to replace all of them would be a hassle. If you only replaced two per wheel to get the others started, that would make more sense$.
You could buy new alloy wheels with steel inserts so you could use acorn nuts. My solution was to always run steel wheels.
Once you get one lug on, rotate it to the top of the wheel, then put on the one at 6 oclock, which makes lifting it with a pry bar easier (as someone mentioned). All the others should go on easier.
When doing the fronts, sometimes locking your hubs and into 4x4 makes it easier for the fronts because the rotor will not turn.
Yes, it is. You can get longer lugs, BUT, if they bottom out before tightening all the way down it means the wheel will come off. Plus, if you have longer studs, they will push through the top of the lug nuts or will not seat all the way down. Been there, done that.
What you need is a stud only about 1/4" longer and they do not come in those increments and to replace all of them would be a hassle. If you only replaced two per wheel to get the others started, that would make more sense$.
You could buy new alloy wheels with steel inserts so you could use acorn nuts. My solution was to always run steel wheels.
Once you get one lug on, rotate it to the top of the wheel, then put on the one at 6 oclock, which makes lifting it with a pry bar easier (as someone mentioned). All the others should go on easier.
When doing the fronts, sometimes locking your hubs and into 4x4 makes it easier for the fronts because the rotor will not turn.
