Update: Got the Bolt-Out set at Sears for $20.00, and they work great! Finally got that bugger out. I went to the parts store and got a new bleeder valve, bled the brakes with the proportioner valve bleeder rod pulled out, and voila! Brake light on dash is not on anymore, and the brakes feel pretty good! Thanks to all for the advice, and, if you have not tried the Sears Bolt-Outs, I suggest you try them before getting in too deep.

 

I'll have to check those out. Has anyone seen or used those bleeder valves that have the spring loaded check ball in them? You are suppose to be able to replace your existing bleeders with them and it allows you to bleed your brakes yourself.

 

Make absolutely sure you have rubber caps on these. In country where you have all dirt roads and snow and ice. They can push against the ball and possibly stick them open. Then no brake. I have seen this happen and will not yous them myself. A pressure bleeder that keeps constant fluid and pressure on the master is the best way. You can replace all the fluid in the system in minutes by your self. They can be rented at most all rental places.

 

All a guy has to do to bleed the brakes (by himself) is to get a clean jar and 1+1/2 to 2 foot of clean hose that fits snuggly over the bleeder screw.

Put the hose down into a little clean fluid in the jar and pump the brake pedal.

What the heck could be easier than that? :)

The fluid won't be sucked back up the hose really, too much work, easier for the master cylinder to get re-supplied from its own reservoir, see? :)

It doesn't go haywire while it's waitiing for you to tighten the bleeder screw either.

Works on my stock '75 F150 front and back. Even tho "the book" sez-so, the proportioning valve never gets in the way, even tho I do nothing to hold it in or out.

Alvin in AZ