O2 Sensor Stuck
Thanks,
Michael
'93 Aero 3.0L
'93 Aero 4.0L
Second thing is to make sure you torque in the right direction. If you're slightly off to an angle from exactly perpendicular, you could be making it a lot more difficult than it should be, and you can break things that you don't want broken.
Maybe heating will help, but I'm not so certain. The HEGO sensor spends its life in a very hot environment.
A few minutes soak with penetrant, a 7/8 inch open end wrench and several smacks with a heavy hammer and it easily came out.It had anti-seize on its threads, and the new one (Bosch) came with anti-seize also. Maybe I was extra lucky on this job???
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A few minutes soak with penetrant, a 7/8 inch open end wrench and several smacks with a heavy hammer and it easily came out.It had anti-seize on its threads, and the new one (Bosch) came with anti-seize also. Maybe I was extra lucky on this job???
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Overnight Liquid Wrench soak, pipe wrench, and a couple whacks with a hammer. I put too much force into the initial push of the pipe wrench -- it came loose much easier than I had expected and I tore off the usual amount of knuckle meat when my clenched hand hit something at the back of the engine. I had gone two days working on my Aero without bleeding...I was due some blood.
The tranny filter replacement and gentle flush were uneventful yesterday. I think I need to connect some sort of small valve to pump out the 2 quarts easier than removing a hose each time. Any suggestions?
Replacement of that tiny tranny cooler in the front fender was much messier than I had expected. But, I think the new heavy duty Hayden in front of the condensor will help keep the tranny temp down.
The tranny seems to be shifting much easier now. I don't get the 3-2 slip on a left-hand turn now. The old tranny filter had completely disintegrated. The screen inside was completely gone. Where did it go?
Thanks for all your help...
Michael
'93 Aero 3.0L 2WD Ext
'94 Aero 4.0L 2WD Ext
i would change the ATF again in 500>1k miles to flush all that old varnish and goop out...bound to be loads in the valve body and torque converter which take time to be removed by the fresh ATF detergents...
then put in a full bottle of Lubeguard "Red" in the 2nd change of fresh ATF
glad u got her going
what did you find in the bottom of the tranny pan?
Last edited by 96_4wdr; Mar 10, 2007 at 10:14 PM.
Here is how you flush the transmission
https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/s...6&postcount=32
i would change the ATF again in 500>1k miles to flush all that old varnish and goop out...bound to be loads in the valve body and torque converter which take time to be removed by the fresh ATF detergents...
then put in a full bottle of Lubeguard "Red" in the 2nd change of fresh ATF
glad u got her going
what did you find in the bottom of the tranny pan?
96_4wdr, thanks for the advice to reflush the tranny. I will do that in a couple weeks.
As for the bottom of the tranny pan...didn't see all that much there. It looked and felt like a thick, dark gray paste. The magnet had most of this dark paste clinging to it. There were no pieces of anything unusual, only this very fine paste. The old fluid still had a sort of reddish tint to it. But, it definitely wasn't as red or clear as the new Valvoline fluid. I figure with 201K miles on her, I am living on borrowed time and plan to rebuild it as my first tranny rebuild project this summer.******** type=text/javascript> vbmenu_register("postmenu_4511262", true); *********>
I took the pan off my trans to change the fluid and filter at 60k and again at 120k, and while each time the fluid was burnt, the only thing I found on the bottom of the pan was a barely detectable coat of fine black powder. Hopefully, it won't fail before you get to rebuilding it.
Nothing unusual?? The reason a magnet picked this up is because that is your internal tranny parts slowly disintegrating.
I'm with XLT, I hope you get it rebuild before it quits on you/







