battery shut off
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
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From: Sacramento area
Thanks, SPL Tech, Then can I assume the voltage drop is normal for all solenoids? And therefore I should not have battery drain problem? Or will my vehicle
burn to the ground?
burn to the ground?
Fleet Mechanic
Joined: Sep 2003
Posts: 1,279
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From: savannah,ga
hey gusso lets start over
what is it you are trying to do
give us an idea and we can give better info
for staight forward elect. sys. control you need to control wires
that feed the cab not starter
to feed acc. then you need new wires from hot side of starter
solenoid to continuos duty sol. to the acc.
what is it you are trying to do
give us an idea and we can give better info
for staight forward elect. sys. control you need to control wires
that feed the cab not starter
to feed acc. then you need new wires from hot side of starter
solenoid to continuos duty sol. to the acc.
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2007
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Originally Posted by gusso
Thanks, SPL Tech, Then can I assume the voltage drop is normal for all solenoids? And therefore I should not have battery drain problem? Or will my vehicle
burn to the ground?
burn to the ground?
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento area
Hi, mhg; I`m exploring the idea of putting a "latching" solenoid between
the starter and the starter solenoid, then hooking a hidden switch to it
to be used as an anti theft device. [ switching off the starter ] And thanks,
mgh, for suggesting we start over as it seems sometimes people that answer
posts don`t always read correctly the post they are responding to. Anyway ,thats what I`m exploring. By all means, mgh, give me your thoughts.
the starter and the starter solenoid, then hooking a hidden switch to it
to be used as an anti theft device. [ switching off the starter ] And thanks,
mgh, for suggesting we start over as it seems sometimes people that answer
posts don`t always read correctly the post they are responding to. Anyway ,thats what I`m exploring. By all means, mgh, give me your thoughts.
Moderator
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 56,984
Likes: 2,738
From: Virginia
Hey, now we know what you want to do!
Is there a reason you want to kill all power with a large solenoid/relay?
A simple hidden switch interrupting the coil power will let the engine crank but not start.
Another simple switch that interrupts the red/blue wire going to the factory starting solenoid will not let it crank, but it could be roll started, unless you kill the coil too.
Is there a reason you want to kill all power with a large solenoid/relay?
A simple hidden switch interrupting the coil power will let the engine crank but not start.
Another simple switch that interrupts the red/blue wire going to the factory starting solenoid will not let it crank, but it could be roll started, unless you kill the coil too.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento area
Hay, Dave, I never thought about the bad guys being able to push my truck
to start it. Great idea [to me] to switch the wire that goes the to coil. So now
thats what I`ll do. Any better ideas? Thanks much. Great info.
to start it. Great idea [to me] to switch the wire that goes the to coil. So now
thats what I`ll do. Any better ideas? Thanks much. Great info.
Thread Starter
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Elder User
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 572
Likes: 0
From: Sacramento area
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Post Fiend
Joined: Dec 2003
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From: "Islander"
A little on topic here; my friend called in a panic as he went shopping then his 70 PU wouldn't start just starter relay clicking.
Found the cable to the starter had 14 ohms resistance, nuff to screw things up, jumped direct to the starter terminal post and it cranked so he can get it home.
I clean then coat every cable and terminal point with Thomas & Betts conductive anti-corrosion compound.
With this compound every connection with Fluke 87 meter reads zero ohms, meter reads to 1/10 ohm.
Found the cable to the starter had 14 ohms resistance, nuff to screw things up, jumped direct to the starter terminal post and it cranked so he can get it home.
I clean then coat every cable and terminal point with Thomas & Betts conductive anti-corrosion compound.
With this compound every connection with Fluke 87 meter reads zero ohms, meter reads to 1/10 ohm.