Distibutor will not come out???
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Joined: Mar 2007
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Distibutor will not come out???
Alright so i am takin my 84 swb econline cargo van down to points cause im tired of the electronic stuff. I took the bolt off that has the clamp on it to hold the distributor and tried to pull the dist out but it will just not come. It almost seems like there could be an allen head bolt holding the distributor in from the side but im not sure. Has anyone had this problem is there another little bolt holding the distributor in?? this is on a 300 thanks
Jon
Jon
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Joined: May 2004
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I just pulled the distributor on my Pontiac last week, it didn't want to come out either. Forum members said "it'll come right out". There's not enough gear contact to hold back the force a human can exert on it. Mine would come up about half an inch and it would rotate, so I just rotated it and pulled, then pushed it back down repeatedly. Turns out the distributor housing fits snugly through the hole, any old grime, 25 year corrosion in gonna make it not fit. I do the same thing with very tight screws, out a little, back in a little, out again etc. It helps alot. If your gonna pry, be very careful, that metal isn't designed for it.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Saddle Brook United State
You might be right about the second bolt/set screw. On my block(1990) there is what looks like a small tapped hole in the engine block that is in line with the dist body/shaft. My first thought when I saw it was it was to lock the dist after adjustment. On my engine it wasn't doing anything and there was no mention in the "1990 service manual" about it, so I paid no attention to it. Your engine being an 84 the bolt/set screw might actually serve a purpose.
stractor
stractor
Last edited by stractor; Mar 8, 2007 at 12:00 PM.
Senior User
Joined: Jul 2003
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From: Nashville
That little hole is usually plugged with a tiny metal freezeplug... there is no set screw, pin or such in the side of the block that is actually holding the distributor. They're just tight and sometimes a booger to pull. Only thing retaining the dizzy is the one obvious clamp. In both pulling & installing the distributor you often wind up having to turn the crank by hand or bump the starter to get it to come all the way out/ go all the way in. The gear teeth are at a steep angle and often won't mesh/ unmesh without a bit of twisting.
So what is the hole for? It's simply a machining access hole that lines up with the oil passageway feeding the distributor gear. Any finish machining to this passageway couldn't be done from inside the block so it had to be "extended" then blocked off. I've seen ppl forget to replace the plug after a rebuild and wind up with oil streaming down the side of the block.
So what is the hole for? It's simply a machining access hole that lines up with the oil passageway feeding the distributor gear. Any finish machining to this passageway couldn't be done from inside the block so it had to be "extended" then blocked off. I've seen ppl forget to replace the plug after a rebuild and wind up with oil streaming down the side of the block.
FTE Chapter Leader
Joined: May 2002
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From: Fraziers Bottom, WV
It only has the one bolt. They hang sometimes and to get them out you need to twist the housing back and forth while pulling it up. In other vehicles I have had to tap the under side of the housing with a rubber mallett! But it came out!
Elder User
Joined: Jan 2004
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From: Cameron, OK
Try pulling the cap and rocking the rotor back and forth as you work it out... Why are you dumping that dizzy for a points unit anyway? The DSII unit is one of the most popular swaps for the guys with the older (and sometimes newer) engines. If your having trouble with the DSII modules (I can relate) there is an easy conversion to run the DSII dizzy off of a chevy HEI control unit. I had a 72 with a 390 with points, best thing I ever did for that truck was swapping in the Accell solid state elec. ignition conversion.
