The brake pedal on my '85 F-250 will sometimes get very hard when trying to stop, other times it is fine. The booster looks like it has been replaced before. I have only owned the truck for about six or eight months, also my automatic transmission wants to downshift when I roll to a stop, it is very bad when I roll slowly down a hill. I measured 10" of vacuum at idle and was wondering if this is okay, seeing as how it still has the factory vacuum pump on it. I will truly greatful for any help as the tranny is kinda nerve racking.

 

Gotta do a vacuum test........ most likely the vacuum pump, but there are several leak points, main one is the 48 oz juice tin with 2 lines attached they get holes in the bottom.

 

Does it hold vacuum after you shut off motor?

 

Running into this same thing with my new <to me> 350. I pulled one of the plugs off of the vacuum manifold last night and plugged my vacuum gauge in. Only 15" or so. Supposed to be 20" I think. I pressed the brakes several times and checked again, down to 2-3". Took a few minutes to get back up to 15". I let it sit for an hour or so while I worked on the water drain leak on the fuel filter and it kept the 15" in there the entire time. Looks like vacuum pump time. I'm going to take it apart and try the synthetic oil inside (read that on one of my diesel forum sites, not sure which) and see if it'll pull back up to 20". If not, I'll be replacing it. I know that cdnsarguy over at TDS has a vacuum test sheet in his gallery. You might want to check it out.

Mike

 

I just got my diesel recenty and I noticed mine was not braking very easily. I know diesels have a vacuum pump to help with the brakes so maybe mine is bad too. If it holds vacuum after the engine is shut off, then it most likely the pump?

 

Most likely you guys need new vacuum pumps. Mine had hard brakes, strange shifting, and non working cruise control. I replaced my vacuum pump and now my brakes are perfect, cruise works, and the transmission shifts like a champ! I didnt worry with vacuum readings, I just replaced it!

 

Dave,
I'm with you I think....I went to try to take the pump off tonight to give it a shot with a cleanup & some synthetic oil (read that somewhere, not sure where) and somebody before me tried to take it off and rounded off the frickin' bottom bolt! Looks like I'll have to figure out how to pull the pulley while it's on the truck to get to that bottom bolt. Looks like just a press on? Not a whole helluva lot of room to get a puller in there. Worst case I guess I rotozip grind off the head of the 3rd bolt and ez out the bolt (I've never had great success with ez outs, more like "hardest way possible out" in attempts). If I can get the pulley off I can ram a socket on there and probably get it.

I have a call in to the local IH dealer to get a price, they didn't have one in stock today but said he could get it in tomorrow. If I have to order one, is this the kind of thing you guys would recommend getting from a dealership (y2kford most likely) or is an Autozone/Schucks pump OK? Schucks has one for $99ish plus shipping. I can't find it on y2kford's site so I don't have a comparison for pricing yet.

Not meaning to hijack your thread here bigbradleyp, just kicking in info & asking in the same thread as I'm in the same boat you are.

Mike

 

Its good to see other people in the same boat as me. Now I don't feel like its an unusual problem that only I am experiencing. Thanks everybody.

 

Oregon-Mike you can can hijack my thread anytime with good info such as you gave me. I did the vacuum test and it is indeed my vacuum pump, I'll probably change it out this weekend. This is the only real problem I have with the truck, yhis and the good old wondering steering of the old fords. This truck still had original belts and original hoses on it, did I mention that the truck only has 115k miles on it. So a little maintenance is probably in order. Oh yeah how can I tell if my truck has the right amount of additive in the antifreeze. Mine is beautiful and green, just wondering if I should change it out and start over. If I do start over how much should I add? The radiator holds 32 qts. Thanks for all of the info, I am a diesel dummy and you guys have really helped me a lot.

 

bigbrad go to NAPA (Own brand by WIX) or IH and get test strips.......

Go to IH ask for the Fleetguard 3-WAY Coolant Test Strips CC2602B contains 1 Test strip. They show A/F freeze point (EG and PG coolants), Nitrite level and Molybdate levels.

 

Bigbrad,
I picked up a 4 pack of the Fleetguard test strips at a local IH dealer. I found them in the yellow pages under "Truck, Repair & Service". They had them right at the front counter. I think I paid about $6 for a 4 pack. I had already picked up a couple of bottles of the DCA4 Ford conditioner from my local auto parts place (they have no test strips). My radiator had nice new green antifreeze in it too, with 0 of the needed additives. I suspected as much. If there is 0 in there you need 2 of the bottles. I siphoned enough out to add the 2 bottles.

The chart that comes with the test strip(s) I *think* will tell you how much to add if there is some in there.

Mike

 

the local jobber house sent me motorcraft VC-8 additive for diesels; is this the right stuff?

 

Looks like the stuff. I did a quick check and found this post:
__________________
Fords VC8 is rebottled DCA4 say's so right on the container.......
___________________

Looks to be one in the same.

Mike

 

Update:
I got a new pump installed this afternoon and the brakes work without having to stand on them now even after using/pumping them a few times. Major PITA to replace, had to buy a new pulley from the dealership (time issue, otherwise Ed @ y2k parts was 1/2 the price).

Good luck with your changeout this weekend bigbrad. I hope it goes smoother than mine!

Mike

 

tanks for the conformation
Benjamin