Found the problem!
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: South Dakota
Found the problem!
Well, as long recommended for my smoking problem was to check the CDR (Cheaper and Dave S.), I finally got around to getting it out this weekend. When I went to remove it, the bolts were pretty tight on it. I can tell ya, the CDR hasn't been serviced since the day it rolled out of the factory...especially by the gunk I found in the CDR. I went ahead and washed out the CDR with gasoline and all that came out was PURE black. I examined the blackened gasoline and sure enough, black pieces of rubber were floating in its contents. After this discovery I went to town to get a replacement. Sure enough as I had been told, the local parts stores either looked at me funny or were unable to find it (I even had the old CDR in hand). I finally broke down and went to the dealership...the found it in a snap...for $65. I asked about ordering but they said I would have to pay upfront for an order. I told them I'd think about it...I'm now wondering, is that a decent price? Is there any place online to order these? I plan to turbo this truck when summertime rolls around and I don't want to put $65 into a part that I might use for about 3 months...any thoughts?
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: South Dakota
Alright thanks for the replies guys! I will call West River International and see if they can get ahold of one. Before I do that...TJC, there is a good CDR valve on the Banks turbo system sitting in my garage, would that one fit? I don't know if it has the same mounting bracket though...I also noticed that after soaking the old CDR in gas, it is still seeping gas from the little pin-hole on the back of the unit. Is this normal? I don't want to take the new one, clean it in gas and have gas flowing back into the crankcase. The help is VERY appreciated, thanks.
-Dave
-Dave
i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,426
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From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
this is rite from Y2K ford parts site search feature..
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid">Item Number</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>MSRP</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>Core Price</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>Price</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top>E3TZ6A665A</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$53.18</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$0.00</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$38.29</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext colSpan=4>
ADAPTER ASY CRANKCA
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=middle colSpan=4>Add to Cart Contact Us </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
<TABLE cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=3 width="100%" border=0><TBODY><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid">Item Number</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>MSRP</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>Core Price</TD><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=right>Price</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top>E3TZ6A665A</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$53.18</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$0.00</TD><TD class=tabletext vAlign=top align=right>$38.29</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext colSpan=4>
ADAPTER ASY CRANKCA
</TD></TR><TR><TD class=tabletext style="BORDER-BOTTOM: #24569d 1px solid" align=middle colSpan=4>Add to Cart Contact Us </TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: South Dakota
Thanks TJC, I only need it for about 3 months before it goes turbo 
. I tell ya, I JUST checked the website and got those numbers. That $38.29 looks alot better than $65!! I will check tonight and make some measurements to make sure the Banks CDR will work. If not, I'll have that one from Y2KFord on order.
I am still in question about the gasoline technique I used. I mean, I let it soak, swished the gas around inside and poured it out on Saturday. Today is Monday and I am still seeing gasoline leaking out of the pin-hole on the backside of the CDR valve. Thats a little extensive of a drying period in my opinion. Don't want any gas in the crankcase, so what am I doing wrong? Any thoughts?
-Dave
. I tell ya, I JUST checked the website and got those numbers. That $38.29 looks alot better than $65!! I will check tonight and make some measurements to make sure the Banks CDR will work. If not, I'll have that one from Y2KFord on order. I am still in question about the gasoline technique I used. I mean, I let it soak, swished the gas around inside and poured it out on Saturday. Today is Monday and I am still seeing gasoline leaking out of the pin-hole on the backside of the CDR valve. Thats a little extensive of a drying period in my opinion. Don't want any gas in the crankcase, so what am I doing wrong? Any thoughts?
-Dave
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i ain't rite
Joined: Mar 2005
Posts: 65,426
Likes: 5,509
From: Marlboro Mental Hospital.
i washed mine out in my parts washer to clean it up a bit a few years ago when the truck was down with the blown transfer case/ trans swap.
after draining it and blowing it out with air, it still took almost 1 month to stop dripping.
after draining it and blowing it out with air, it still took almost 1 month to stop dripping.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: South Dakota
Originally Posted by tjc transport
i washed mine out in my parts washer to clean it up a bit a few years ago when the truck was down with the blown transfer case/ trans swap.
after draining it and blowing it out with air, it still took almost 1 month to stop dripping.
after draining it and blowing it out with air, it still took almost 1 month to stop dripping.
Originally Posted by matts156
Won't gasoline attack the rubber and damage/destroy it?
Elder User
Joined: Aug 2005
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From: New Jersey
Well, carb cleaner is even stronger than gasoline when it comes to attacking rubber.
I think the best bet is a citrus-based grease cutting solution. My Fast Orange hand cleaner does a great job at cutting grease and oil. Maybe I could thin it out (the non-pumice variety, that is) and use that to flush out the CDR. They have spray bottles of the stuff, too. Not as a hand cleaner, but as a grease-cutting cleaner.
I have some engine degreaser in a spray can, too. I'm going to do a couple of experiments with it to see if it attacks rubber. If not, it might be a good, cheap alternative to the citrus stuff. Or maybe it would work well in combination with the citrus stuff. I could mix the two.
If you hear a boom and feel your windows rattle, it's probably just me finding out that citrus and engine degreaser can be substituted for low-yield tactical nuclear weapons. I'll probably have to write a tech manual for it (as soon as I repair the EMP damage to my computer).
I have to do this on my next oil change. I hope the thing's intact (but probably not), but at least a new one isn't that much.
I think the best bet is a citrus-based grease cutting solution. My Fast Orange hand cleaner does a great job at cutting grease and oil. Maybe I could thin it out (the non-pumice variety, that is) and use that to flush out the CDR. They have spray bottles of the stuff, too. Not as a hand cleaner, but as a grease-cutting cleaner.
I have some engine degreaser in a spray can, too. I'm going to do a couple of experiments with it to see if it attacks rubber. If not, it might be a good, cheap alternative to the citrus stuff. Or maybe it would work well in combination with the citrus stuff. I could mix the two.
If you hear a boom and feel your windows rattle, it's probably just me finding out that citrus and engine degreaser can be substituted for low-yield tactical nuclear weapons. I'll probably have to write a tech manual for it (as soon as I repair the EMP damage to my computer).
I have to do this on my next oil change. I hope the thing's intact (but probably not), but at least a new one isn't that much.
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Elder User
Joined: Apr 2006
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From: South Dakota
Thanks for the replies guys. I did discover that the bolt patterns were the same so the CDR off the Banks kit will work. I might try your chemical mix TJC. If not degreaser or something. I know Dave S recommends good ol' gasoline but as said previously, it could harm the rubber seal. I also thought using compressed air to dry out the CDR was a bad idea? Not sure if I remember correctly about that one.
and Matt...let us know how it turns out but don't blow yourself up in the process!
and Matt...let us know how it turns out but don't blow yourself up in the process!