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6.9 electrical issues

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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 05:09 PM
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6.9 electrical issues

I have an 87 6.9, it starts fine when its been sitting for over a day but when its been shut down after running, say to fuel up its dead, the water in fuel sensor light stays on and theirs nothing, Ive been looking at old threads and trying to figure out how to put an after market seperator in. Also having my batteries drain out when it sits too long, I found a frayed 16ga fusible link Im going to replace, hopefully thats the culprit. My question is: does this simply mean the water in fuel sensor is detecting water and protecting the pump? and I went to Napa and they told me theirs no after market water seperator, can anyone recomend a way to fix this? Thanks in advance.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 07:18 PM
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The 87 should have the three piece fuel filter.
The water in fuel sensor is located in the bottom piece of the filter.
There was an issue a while back, something about corrosion inside the bottom bowl causing the light to come on if I remember correctly.

Water in fuel sensor does nothing to stop the fuel pump, all it does is inform the driver there is a problem.

It also sounds like your IP is getting weak.

Have you had the batteries load tested?
Do you have a draw that is drawing the batteries down?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:44 PM
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there was a post a while back about aftermarket fuel filters and you can get them they are not specificaly for these trucks put you can make them work .
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:52 PM
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heres the link to the thread https://www.ford-trucks.com/forums/5...+micron+filter
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:12 PM
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I didnt state my problems clear enough because as usual I have 2 of them at the same time, found one, the schraeder valve was letting air in, what a relief to find that, no more knocking. Now I only need to figure out why the starter only turns when I'm leaving home, when away I have nothing, then I try a few hundred times and bang she goes. Can a starter do this? or the solenoid? I'll have the batts and alt. checked. thanks for trying, I need to be more clear next time
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:30 PM
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Manual or automatic tranny?
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Manual 4 speed
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:37 PM
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Originally Posted by Boyds6.9
I didnt state my problems clear enough because as usual I have 2 of them at the same time, found one, the schraeder valve was letting air in, what a relief to find that, no more knocking. Now I only need to figure out why the starter only turns when I'm leaving home, when away I have nothing, then I try a few hundred times and bang she goes. Can a starter do this? or the solenoid? I'll have the batts and alt. checked. thanks for trying, I need to be more clear next time
How is your ignition switch? Cold probably works good has contact. When it is warm it might be worn enough not to make good contact. Check the starter solenoid take the wires off the terminal clean them spray them with silicon or battery protector. Check the #6 wire ( heavy one from the battery to the solenoid) might have some corrosion under the plastic coating compromising the terminal. Make sure the little red wire with the 90 degree push on terminal is clean and has good contact. (That is your ignition switch power to start wire). Check the connections on your starter make sure they are clean and tight.

Next try moving the shifter and turning the key.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 06:42 PM
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Thanks alot thats the kinda info I really need right now, I'll have to wait till tomorrow though. greatly appreciated
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 09:42 PM
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The clutch interlock under the dash may be the problem.
When it does not want to crank, try releasing the clutch and depressing it again.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 09:54 PM
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Originally Posted by Boyds6.9
Also having my batteries drain out when it sits too long, I found a frayed 16ga fusible link Im going to replace, hopefully thats the culprit. no after market water seperator, can anyone recomend a way to fix this? Thanks in advance.
don't know if you've got an integral voltage regulator (built into alternator) or an external (mounted on inside of engine compartment) but if it's an external, sometimes the connector on the back of the alternator gets worn and loose. my 90 model had the problem of no charging, ergo, no starting. replaced alternator; no dice. replaced voltage regulator; no dice. checked connector and it practically fell out in my hand. took spade terminals and wired jumpers to the alternator and just cut the stinking plug off and threw it away. yes, it's a little mean to disconnect the wiring from the alternator and yes you do have to pay attention to how it was connected, but how often do you do that anyway. as to the aftermarket water separator, racor is supposed to have a setup that works, but i've been to their site and can't find a dang thing that looks like anything that would fit a ford. LOL hope this helps
speedrdr
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 10:40 PM
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Exclamation

just happened to be viewing previous posts and found one that showed picture of a racor water/fuel separator. it's a model 500FG and the company is Parker Hannifin corp. racor division in modesto, ca. had a phone number shown in the picture on hte filter, but couldn't quite read the last digits of it.
hope this helps.
speedrdr
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 10:08 AM
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I was looking at that racor and wondering if it can be installed where the old seperator is or if it will have to go in after the lift pump? looks like theirs lots of room where the old one is on drivers side fender, thanks for help with the electrical situation, going over all your advice today, hopefully its what speedrdr had wrong ....I dont think its the clutch though but I'll give it a closer look. ... thanks again guys
 
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Old Mar 4, 2007 | 12:22 PM
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Clutch interlock wire is red/ light blue stripe and located down by the clutck linkage under the dash.

The interlock interupts the current from the key switch to the fender mounted starter relay. If the switch is not closed, no start, no click when the key is turned.
 
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 09:19 PM
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the clutch interlock is a problem that i had as well after fixing the alternator plug. found out that had non adjusting switch, so unplugged it and took advice posted earlier and jumpered it across. yeah, it's probably not the safest alternative, but since i'm the only one that drives it, i'm not complaining about the lack of jamming the pedal to the floor and squirming it around trying to find that "sweet" spot where it would crank. LOL
speedrdr
 
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