My father, long time mech., service manager, auto diesel teacher sent me this..


Oil is killing our cars...

Original from Keith M. Ansell of Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.
http://www.foreignpartspositively.com/

About a year ago I read about the reduction of zinc dialkyl
dithiophosphate (ZDDP) in the oils supplied with API approval that
could affect sliding and high pressure (EP) friction in our cars. The
reduction of these chemicals in supplied oils was based on the fact
that phosphates reduce the effectiveness and eventually damage
catalytic converters and introduce minute amounts of pollutants into
our atmosphere.

A couple of months ago I had a member of the Columbia Gorge MG Club
bring a totally failed camshaft and lifters back to me that had only
900 miles on them!! I immediately contacted the camshaft re-grinder
(Delta Cam) and asked how this could happen. They were well aware of
this problem as they were starting to have many failures of this
type. In the past, the lack of a molybdenum disulfide camshaft
assembly lubricant, at assembly, was about the only thing that could
create this type of problem. My customer has assembled many engines
and had lubricated the camshaft properly. Then the bad news came out:
It's today's "modern" API (American Petroleum Industry) approved oils
that are killing our engines: Meaning all flat tappet (cam follower)
equipped engines, as used in all BMC products, all British Leyland
products, most pushrod engines prior to 1980, early Volvos, American
high-performance engines and many others.

Next call: To a major camshaft supplier, both stock and performance
(Crane). They now have an additive for whatever oil you are using
during break-in so that the camshaft and lifters won't fail in an
unreasonably short period of time. They also suggest using a diesel
rated oil on flat tappet engines.

Next call: To a racing oil manufacturer that we use for the race cars
(Red Line Oil). Their response: "We are well aware of the problem and
we still use the correct amounts of those additives in our products".
They continued to tell me they are not producing API approved oils so
they don't have to test and comply. Their oils were NOT the "new,
improved and approved" ones that destroy flat tappet engines! "We
just build the best lubricants possible". Sounds stupid, doesn't it,
New-Approved but inferior products, but it seems to be true for our
cars.

To top this off: Our representative from a major supplier of
performance and street engine parts (EPWI) stopped by to "warn us" of
the problem of the NEW oils on flat tappet engines. This was a call
that the representative was making only because of this problem to
warn their engine builders! "The reduction of the zinc, manganese and
phosphates are causing very early destruction of cams and followers".
They are recommending that, for now at least, there must be a proper
oil additive put in the first oil used on new engines, beyond the
liberal use of molydisulfide assembly lube. They have been told that
the first oil needs the additive but remain skeptical that the first
oil is all that is necessary. Their suggestion: Use diesel rated oils
such as Delo or Rotella that are usually available at auto stores and
gas stations.

This problem is BIG! American Engine Rebuilder's Association (AERA)
Bulletin #TB2333 directly addresses this problem. I had a short
discussion with their engineer and he agreed with all that I had been
finding.

Next phone call was to a retired engineer from Clevite, a major
bearing and component manufacturer. First surprise was that he
restored older British Motor bikes. The second surprise was that he
was "VERY" aware of this problem because many of the old bikes had
rectangular tappets that couldn't rotate and are having a very large
problem with the new oils. He has written an article for the British
Bike community that verify all the "bad news" we have been finding.

Comp Cams put out "#225 Tech Bulletin: Flat Tappet Camshafts". They
have both an assembly lube and an oil additive. The telling sentence
in the bulletin was "While this additive was originally developed
specifically for break-in protection, subsequent testing has proven
the durability benefits of its long term use. This special blend of
additives promotes proper break-in and protects against premature cam
and lifter failure by replacing some of the beneficial ingredients
that the oil companies have been required to remove from the "off-the-
shelf oil".

Next question: Now what do we do?

From the camshaft re-grinders (DeltaCam) "Use oils rated for diesel
use", Delo. They have the ZDDP we need in
weights we are familiar with.

From Redline Oil: Early in 2007 they will be supplying a "break-in
oil"
specifically for our cars.

From Castrol: They will be supplying "new oils" specifically
for our cars in early 2007.

For you science buffs: ZDDP is a single polar molecule that is
attracted to Iron based metals. The one polar end tends to "Stand"
the molecule up on the metal surface that it is bonded to by heat and
friction. This forms a sacrificial layer to protect the base metals
of the cam and tappet from contacting each other. Only at very high
pressures on a flat tappet cam is this necessary because the oil is
squeezed/wiped from the surface. This high pressure is also present
on the gudgeon pin (wrist pin) in diesel engines, therefore the need
for ZDDP in all diesel engines.

Second part of the equation is Molybdenum disulfide (Moly). The moly
bonds to the zinc adding an additional, very slippery, sacrificial
layer to the metal. I found out that too much of the moly will create
problems; lack of this material reduces the effectiveness of the
ZDDP. The percentage, by weight is from .01 to .02%, not much, but
necessary according to the chemists.


Our cars are a small percentage of the total market and BIG
Corporate, the American Petroleum Institute and possibly government
have made decisions that are detrimental to our cars. This problem
isn't going away. The trend today is to lighter weight oils to
decrease drag, which increases mileage. Most of these seem to be
the "Energy Conservation" oils that we cannot use.

The "Energy Conservation" trend was first led by automakers to
increase mileage numbers and secondly because the ZDDP and other
chemicals degrade the catalytic converter after extended miles,
increasing pollution. Most of us don't have catalytic converters and
the mileage gains are not that significant.

On "modern" production cars, stay with the manufacturers'
suggestions. For any car produced before about 1990 the owner needs
to be aware that the factory suggested lubricant may have changed and
may not be applicable. Flat tappet, stock, performance or modified
may be affected. MGBs from 1975 to 1980 must choose to sacrifice the
cam or the catalytic converter as an example of how difficult the
decisions are becoming!

Yes, there is more! Castrol does understand our dilemma and is
actively looking into what it can do to support our cars. We can soon
expect to see products from them with specific application to classic
cars. Red Line will be offering a "break-in" oil soon after the first
of the year. Shell's Rotella will be good until about June or July of
2007 with possibly nothing after that date. Delo (Chevron) will also
be questionable after the new "CJ-4" standards come in the middle of
2007.

Now the important information: Oils that may be correct for our cars
today:

(As reported by manufacturers by 12-31-06, NOTE: many have changed
their recommendations over the last three months!

Castrol: Syntec 5W-40, Syntec 20W-50, Grand Prix 4-Stroke Motorcycle
oil in 10W-40 and 20W-50, TWS Motorsport 10W-60*, BMW Long Life 5W-
30*

*= full synthetic, available only at BMW dealerships

Red Line: 10W-30, 10W-40 (Synthetic oils)

Valvoline: VR-1 20W-50 (Conventional oil)

Amsoil: 20W-50(TRO), 10W-40(AMO), 15W-40(AME) & 20W-50(ARO)

Mobil: Mobil 1 5W-30 and 20W-50 (Synthetic)

Chevron: Delo 400

Shell: Rotella

What we are doing at Foreign Parts Positively has been difficult to
determine but with few options left, the following is what we are
forced to do. Some of our choices have been based on the
manufacturer' s willingness to help and specific reports. This list
will change in the next months with Castrol and Red Line adding
products just for our cars.

Break in: Delo 400 30W (A break-in oil will be available from Redline
soon!)

Conventional oil: Valvoline VR-1 20W-50

Synthetic: Red Line 10W-30 in newer engines, 10W-40 on older engines.

Break-in is now 3,000 miles (using Delo 400 30W) before changing to
running oil.

Oil change interval: 1 year or 18,000 miles with Red Line synthetic

1 year or 2,500 miles with conventional oil (Valvoline VR-1 20W-50).

Thank you to Castrol, Redline, Christiansen Oil, Valvoline, Mobil,
Shell, Standard Oil and Amsoil for input. We're sure this subject
will continue: Please forward any new information on this subject you
may encounter.

We have received some very interesting material from "Mr Moly" that
may be putting molybdenum disulfide (MoS) into this discussion. It
seems that ZDDP plus MoS is the best from the oil companies' opinion
but MoS by itself may be beneficial. Some racers swear by it. The
literature seems to support "Mr. Moly's" position.

Keith M. Ansell

Foreign Parts Positively, Inc.



WOW!! Just great !! Another major issue/change probably pushed through w/ govt., oil companies, and car manufacturers all in bed together! What's next??!

 

This letter specifically addressed issues with MGBs, though it has relevance to rebuilt flat tappet cam engines and purchasers of substandard parts.

The newest oil specifications, API SM/ILSAC GF-4, were qualified using flat tappet Chevy V-6 engines. The anti-wear requirements of these tests were severe. Though the new GF-4 oils have greatly reduced zinc and phosphorus levels, they protect flat tappet engines as well as the older GF-3 oils.

This issue is of little relevance to modern engines with roller cams, older engines that are properly broken in, and rebuilt engines (especially flat tappet cam) as they are broken in with proper additives.

 

Lots of unknowns here!!!

Don't know I'd be comfortable lumping all brands of SM lubes into the bad category.

Seems to me if a SM lube is back specified, to cover all previous "S" categories, it probably has had it's add pack recipe adjusted with other additives, so that it's ok to use with the older flat tappet cam engines.

If it doesn't say it's compatable with all previous "S" categories, think I'd just leave it on the shelf & opt for a dual rated(gas/diesel) lube, until all this is sorted out.

Might be helpful to know the service grade, viscosity & brand of lube, thats giving the problems, then we could go look up their VOA numbers & from that info, maybe come to a approximate minimum number, for the various addpack goodies needed to be safe for the older flat tappet engines.

Interesting input on the synergy between the ratio of zinc & moly.

Just some more thoughts to ponder.

 

I have seen this information before it is technically correct base on my previous data. Previous I have seen data that shows "new" oils will allow more engine wear for fuel economy by having better flow/pumpability qualities. However,, the engines must have the roller tappet cams. If the cams are conventional, (cam ground lifters) they will quickly flatten a cam. The 'new' oils are not recommended for these engines. Auto manufactures are working to improve the CAFE ratings and trading off engine wear, since most engines today "would" probably run 150,000 miles or more. So the auto mfg. trades engine life to perhaps 100,000 miles to increase the CAFE rating. In any case the engines will at least get "out of warranty" before having an issue on the 'new' oils,, but don't expect engine life as in the past.

One other point the 5w20 oils were mentioned in the previous reports as making the biggest compromise. Going to a 10w30 reduced the wear.

But then just my $.02 worth. Jim