I was curious how the baseline timing effected power and economy on my 89 Bronco w/ 302.

When I first checked the timing it was at 8 degrees. I immmediately bumped it up to 10 and experienced a noticable power increase and my mileage increased to around 14.5. I experienced pinging at 12 degrees and so I settled for 11 using 87 octane fuel and got roughly 15mpg. For the next test I filled the tank with 91 octane and ran the timing up to 14 degrees, experienced an increase in performance and mileage increased to around 17 mpg. Next, I bumped it to 16 degrees- performance increased a bit and economy dropped a bit.

My conclusion is that my optimum timing is in the 14 degree advanced range, which on my truck only requires 89 octane fuel to prevent pinging. Has anyone else experimented with this or have any knowleage to share in the area?

Brian

 

Hey have a 88 with a 302 and i had a guy look at my timing and it was retarted so he set it back to factory spec which is i think 10*. How to you exactly set the timing or play with it, i've read my manual and it says you "CAN NOT CHANGE THE TIMING" so i need to know how you do it ever step of the way because i want more POWER!!! so if you could help my out that would be great thanks man. i have a timing light too just dont know how to mess with timing on a bronco with EFI.

 

I have always run my Ford V8's with the timing advanced. I currently run 14 degrees and use 91 octane gas on my Bronco. I do it for the extra performance. It costs a couple dollars more at fillup time so I don't think you'll save any money with the gas milage increase.

I believe that this is what the Computer chips on the market do. I know they also change the shift timing but I was told by a local perfomance shop the computer code that I have in my Bronco from the factory is very good, he said one of the few that they got right from the factory and to just advance the timing and run premium fuel and I would be very close to what an aftermarket chip would do.

 

Other than the mods on my Bronco recently done, In have not done much work on cars for 30 yrs.... fuel injection, computer controls, etc are new to me.

Do you set the timing the old fashioned way? Use timing light, loosen, turn the distributor? I forgot which ignition wire to connect the timing light to, like I said it's been a long time, but I still have my timing light? Which one?

What happens if I change my timing, AND have a hypertech programmer III set up, which is what I am running now? Anyone else done this? I'm running premium now with no pinging. I am getting HP/torque addicted with my changes so far.... want more!

Rob

1996 Ford Bronco, 5.8L:
-Done:Hypertech III,Powerstat, K&N FIPK,cooler TBody bypass,Mac equal length headers, Gibson cat-back, Taylor wires, Urethane bushings, BF Goodrich TA's, Roadmaster active suspension, Nozzle lights, Euro taillights
-ToDo: MSD Coil, Hypertech cap & rotor, Edelbrock performer intake manifold & 56 Tbody, Granetelli MAF

 

1988XLT2002, to adjust the timing on your truck, first disconnect the spout connector(it's a little plug on the single wire coming off your distributor) with the engine off. Then hook the pickup on your timing light to the wire on cylinder #1(it's the one closest to the front of the truck on the passenger side). Loosen the 1/2" hold down bolt on the distributor a bit and then start the engine. Rotating the distributor clockwise will advance the timing. Turn it to your desired advance and then shut the engine off. Tighten the hold-down bolt and start the engine back up and double check that the timing is where you want it. Turn the engine off and put the spout connector back in.

Have fun,
Brian

 

Just tuned my 89 up w/302 I have MSD6A box, MSD TFI Blaster Coil, Ford racing 9mm wires and Autolite copper plugs. Believe it or not. But when Me and a buddy set the timing at 25 degrees. No ping and 87 octane. Does that sound crazy as hell? 25 degrees!

 

Hello Brian,

Thx for response, this is just what I was lookeing for...except - on my 1996 5.8L Bronco, there is no single "spout" wire connector that I can see. Instead there are a group of wires in a shroud that comes from the front right side of the bottom of the distributor that connects to other wires with a large connector up closer to the front of the fuel injector rail.

There must be eight or more wires in that large connector. Should I disconnect the big connector before adjusting the timing?

Anybody got any sugestions out there about this adjustment with the Hypertech programmer??

Thx again Brian.

Rob

1996 Ford Bronco, 5.8L:
-Done:Hypertech III,Powerstat, K&N FIPK,cooler TBody bypass,Mac equal length headers, Gibson cat-back, Taylor wires, Urethane bushings, BF Goodrich TA's, Roadmaster active suspension, Nozzle lights, Euro taillights
-ToDo: MSD Coil, Hypertech cap & rotor, Edelbrock performer intake manifold & 56 Tbody, Granetelli MAF

 

I asked a friend about this, and he said he agreed with the performance increase, but he also said that it will make the truck harder to start. Did you experience this, if so, to what extent?

Thanks

 

[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-Sep-02 AT 11:18 PM (EST)]>I asked a friend about this, and he said he agreed with the
>performance increase, but he also said that it will make the
>truck harder to start. Did you experience this, if so, to
>what extent?
>
>Thanks
The guy that helped me advance mine said the same thing about starting. But, mine starts quicker and I can feel a real seat of the pants difference. Take off is better and throttle response is better on a roll too. I'm just amazed at how much more I had to advance mine (25 degrees) compared to the others that have posted . My timing chain must be about gone? I don't know? Any opinions welcome on this, from the rest of you folks.

 

Hey Rob I'm sorry just realized you have a 96. You are going to be different than the older trucks You have OBD II I'm not that familiar with them. On the older stuff you could just turn the distributor and trick the computer
I would think your Hypertech module probably is already pushing your timing to the limit.

 

Thx Joe.

I was afraid of that. I thought it might be interesting to try to change the base timing, with or without the Hypertech programed to power setting..

Just curious, what does "OBD ll" stand for?

With my current mods, when I roll on the accelerater in first gear to flooring it, there is a noticable surge (the passenger can feel it)in power around 3400 rpm. It's actually pretty cool, kinda like a modest turbo kicking in on a smaller sports car. I noticed this first after the header install, but I wonder if the hypertech increases the timing up the acceleration curve and that's what it is. I have associated headers with low end punch back in the late 60's when I did this to muscle cars. I don't know if it's from the headers or what, but it's a good thing - want more of it!

I would still like to play with the base timing... anybody else know how to do it on a '96 351?

Rob

1996 Ford Bronco, 5.8L:
-Done:Hypertech III,Powerstat, K&N FIPK,cooler TBody bypass,Mac equal length headers, Gibson cat-back, Taylor wires, Urethane bushings, BF Goodrich TA's, Roadmaster active suspension, Nozzle lights, Euro taillights
-ToDo: MSD Coil, Hypertech cap & rotor, Edelbrock performer intake manifold & 56 Tbody, Granetelli MAF

 

On Board diagnostics I believe

 

Just a heads up this is an old 5.0 Mustang upgrade also. One of the first mods I made to my 86 LX 5.0 was bumping the timing up. It seemed like anything above 12 would cause spark knock though. The same with the earlier post about bypassing the throttlebody heater, the other mod we use to try was disconnceting the vacuum line to the fuel pressure regulator and plugging the vacuum line with a sheet metal screw. The thought was that it would cause the pressure regulator to increase fuel pressure at the fuel rail. We also removed the air inlet silencer in the front fender that was suppose to be good for a few more HP. Then you start removing back seats, sound deading material and one time made my girl friend at the time get out and wait for me to race a 86 vette because of less weight LOL. Headers, flowmasters, remove the cats and replace with (off road exhaust as Ford called it) H-pipes and now X-pipes, replacing the upper intake manifold gasket with a phenolic spacer that was suppose to gain a little more. remove the front sway bar at the track for weight. In 1986 my LX 5.0 was a special order vehicle. You had to order from Ford they did not go to a LX 5.0 standard version until 1987. I ordered my car with the power option delete which meant no A/C, no power windows, no power door locks, no power anything, not even a radio. It was a stripped 5.0 with an 8.8 traction lock, duals which we pulled pulled the cats off the second day I had the car, flowmaster wasn't even really around big yet so we ran cherry bomb type mufflers. She ran a 13.4 at the track running slicks and 2 space saver tires on front. I planned on keeping her forever. She was stolen 3 times and the last time some ahole totalled her running from the cops.

 

If you can advance the base timing to 25 degrees and it's not pinging you might want to check your balancer.It's likely the inner rubber piece has spun making the timing marks off.

Billy

 

Not real sure what you mean about the rubber slipping, must be on a newer model cause my marks are in cast iron.