351W engine swap.
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2002
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From: Central Iowa
351W engine swap.
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 12-Sep-02 AT 11:26 AM (EST)]
I need some info on swapping a fuel injected 351W out and replacing it with a carburated 351W. I have already picked up the engine from a junk yard and am going to start disassembling this week. I hope to have the rebuild done by Xmas. I plan on putting a lot of money into the new engine so I have to budget each month what I can afford. I don't need the engine quite yet but it will be nice to have when I do. I need to know what compatibility problems I am going to run into and if anyone has ever made this swap some experience and wisdom would be great. Also, will my E4OD tranny work without a conversion kit? Any advice is better than none. Thanks in advance.
KJ
I need some info on swapping a fuel injected 351W out and replacing it with a carburated 351W. I have already picked up the engine from a junk yard and am going to start disassembling this week. I hope to have the rebuild done by Xmas. I plan on putting a lot of money into the new engine so I have to budget each month what I can afford. I don't need the engine quite yet but it will be nice to have when I do. I need to know what compatibility problems I am going to run into and if anyone has ever made this swap some experience and wisdom would be great. Also, will my E4OD tranny work without a conversion kit? Any advice is better than none. Thanks in advance.
KJ
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Salt Lake City USA
351W engine swap.
Why don't you just put the Fuel Injection components on the "new" engine? Clean everything up, and get new sensors, injectors, etc.
All the FI stuff should fit onto your engine if you use the upper and lower intakes from the old one.
It seems like you could save yourself a lot of grief by doing this. The E4OD and engine are controlled by the same computer. (At least they are on my '93.) The computer won't know what to do with the transmission if it is not receiving the engine input.
Anyone know if there was ever a combination of a Carburated Engine, and an E4OD?
All the FI stuff should fit onto your engine if you use the upper and lower intakes from the old one.
It seems like you could save yourself a lot of grief by doing this. The E4OD and engine are controlled by the same computer. (At least they are on my '93.) The computer won't know what to do with the transmission if it is not receiving the engine input.
Anyone know if there was ever a combination of a Carburated Engine, and an E4OD?
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351W engine swap.
>Anyone know if there was ever a combination of a Carburated
>Engine, and an E4OD?
No, but I've heard unsubstantiated rumors that some '89 trucks w/the 6.9 diesel received E4ODs. This would essentially be a factory stand-alone controller for the E4OD.
I agree the E4OD is an issue, places like Baughmann sell aftermarket stand-alone controllers. Otherwise you'll probably need to go to a C6 or AOD.
>Engine, and an E4OD?
No, but I've heard unsubstantiated rumors that some '89 trucks w/the 6.9 diesel received E4ODs. This would essentially be a factory stand-alone controller for the E4OD.
I agree the E4OD is an issue, places like Baughmann sell aftermarket stand-alone controllers. Otherwise you'll probably need to go to a C6 or AOD.
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From: Central Iowa
351W engine swap.
Indeed that would make more sense, but I wasn't aware that the components to a fuel injected vice a carburated engine were compatible. Are the blocks themselves identical? The engine came from the yard with heads and totally assembled still from the vehicle it came off of minus the intake. Will my intake transfer to the "new" engine without any mods? Thanks!
KJ
KJ
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351W engine swap.
The blocks are the same. Everything will transfer over more or less. You may run into small issues (eg some 302s are not tapped for a KS, not an issue on the 351, things like that). Not sure if the carbed motor will be tapped for all your serpentine accessory brackets?
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Joined: Aug 2002
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From: Salt Lake City USA
351W engine swap.
The lower intake should just bolt into place.
Everything should be there to do a swap. Just make sure you use your existing headers for the emissions stuff, or order new replacements. You will probably need to use your existing distributor too, so don't forget that. (When did the engine switch from the Crankshaft position sensor to the Hall sensor on the distributor??)
You should take the new engine to a shop that can test the block to make sure everything is in good shape before you start installing your new stuff in it.
The transmission will work with the new engine too.
This is starting to sound like fun!
Everything should be there to do a swap. Just make sure you use your existing headers for the emissions stuff, or order new replacements. You will probably need to use your existing distributor too, so don't forget that. (When did the engine switch from the Crankshaft position sensor to the Hall sensor on the distributor??)
You should take the new engine to a shop that can test the block to make sure everything is in good shape before you start installing your new stuff in it.
The transmission will work with the new engine too.
This is starting to sound like fun!
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Senior User
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From: Central Iowa
351W engine swap.
Update! I lifted the motor from the back of my truck yesterday and started to take it apart. Everything went well with a ratchet and a hammer until I got to the flywheel. The bolts are rustwelded onto the flywheel and won't budge. The original valve covers, with "Power by Ford" on them and original Ford spec. sticker are in tact and will be chromed and reused. The oil pan came off and is still in good shape and will not need to be replaced either. I got half of the Head bolts off (4 of 8 on each side) and am struggling to get enough torque on them right now to bust them loose. The block looks good with no visible cracks or other defects. There is a ton of "sludge" around the valves and springs but that can be taken care of. Do I take the springs off before removing the heads or vice versa? Also, what would be the most efficient way to get the flywheel bolts loose without having to cut them? Thanks in advance!
KJ
KJ
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351W engine swap.
The most efficient way of removing head and flywheel bolts is a big impact wrench. If that's not available, then I usually go for a piece of galvanized pipe over the socket wrench handle for a big lever. I would try breaking those bolts free before cutting them off. Spray a good bit of WD-40 on them and let them sit for a couple of days. Keep spraying some more on each day to help it soak in.
As for head removal, remove the rocker arms and leave the valve springs on. The head will come off just like that.
As for head removal, remove the rocker arms and leave the valve springs on. The head will come off just like that.
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