yes, it will do that - if I unplug the bridge, Idle goes down

 

Ok, do you own a timing light? You need to make sure that the timing is steady at 10 to 12 degrees before top dead center. If it moves around at all it can indicate a bad rotor, cap, wires, plugs, or even a loose timing chain. How does it run? Is it smooth at idle or is a little rough?

 

Yes, I have a timing light but no light outside in the moment - and here is now 7:30pm. I will check this tomorro morning first! Only to verify ('s a long time ago, about 30 years, that i work as race-mechanican for my Brother): indicator-clamp on the first Zyl. an then watch the strobe light on the belt drive?!

 

Yup, hook the funny clamp (inductive side) to the passenger side front plug wire, and then the other two (one black, one red, both large alligator type) to the battery. The indicator is on the passenger side of the balancer. It may be hard to see the numbers and lines so you may want to get under the truck and clean the harmonic balancer with a wire brush and some brake or carburetor cleaner before you start. I usually even take some nail polish or a touch up paint pen and mark the 10 degree mark, makes it easier to see.

 

Thats wright! I have already cleand it so it shoud work (if I use my Glases). I had the Idea to do that also, but because the engine starts very smooth on the first kick and runs very easy at idle - I vorgot.
"Oh how nice was the old time without all this elektronic stuff where you adjust only the ignition timepoint and turn same srews on the carburator - and the Engine runs also fine with low gas - maybe I'm to old for this modern stuff" but with the help of all this nice Specialists an this forum I hope to make this Truck running well. Thanks

 

Here is what the SPOUT should look like.
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...tion/SPOUT.jpg

 

Thanks subford. After rebuilding the complete front harness and test all parts of my car, I know where all the sensors, indicators, salonids and connectors are. But at the time as I was working with cars, 35 years ago, the only electronic part was the inductive ignition time generator. The only things I need at that time to optimize a Engine was: a strobolight, some vacuum-meters, some srewdrivers and a Stethoskope. After my university -Time I work the last 30 years as software engineur and manager so I know also a lot about computers and programing. But to bring both together - Cartechnic and computer - a new world!

 

I test the timing and it looks god at 10 degr. I'm wonder: at idle the engine rans smooth but if I step döwn the gas the i hear the fuel running thru the engine and it starts to stutter - but no error code. I test again the inputs of PCM/ECU -ECT=ok, IAT=ok, MAP=ok, HO2= not shure. And again only 24 miles with 15l. It' not payable because in the moment ist here in germany a gallon on 5€ thats about 6$. More and more I think the PCM is dammage, maybe the Keep alive mem.
Any new idea? Or a list for compatible PCM nummbers?

 

I would think that any PCM from 1992 through 1995 that comes from a truck or maybe a van should work as long as it has the same size engine, same transmission, same air duct system (MAP or MAF) and same fuel system (sequential or bank).

I can give you the Ford replacement PCM part number if you can give me the Calibration Number of the truck.

 

Oh come on here, give me a break!

Tend your horses in the dessert! In Germany! Is that the SaharaRhine Dessert?

Does anybody besides me find this to be just a little fishy?

 

Either way, if he is a fishy tale or what ever, he should check his fuel pressure regulator to make sure it is not broken. Low mpg would make me wonder about that. Someone mentioned checking his ground in the cab. HE should check the voltages to the transmission with the lights on low beam, high beam and off. If he is getting a spike then there is a bad spot in the wiring. If his ground is getting a voltage spike then the there is a short to ground in the wiring somewhere. Even with the C-6 in my truck I can get 11 mpg with 3.55 gearing and 30" tires. Cruising at 2500 rpms to 3000 rpms doing 65 to 70.

 

Does it matter? It's not like he's asking for money or something, besides, definition of a "desert" changes from person to person and region to region. I live in a "desert" region, but theres plenty of plants around. A desert or "arid" region is just a place that gets minimal rainfall (usually less than 5-10" of precipitation). We're all in this to help others and get help, or we wouldn't be here.

Anyways, another thing with the timing issue, when its running and you have the timing light attached, manually use the throttle by moving the bracket by hand, or have someone rev it while you watch the timing marks. Make sure that it advances smoothly and advances more the higher the revs are. I don't remember if you said, but if you didn't, have you checked your fuel pressure?

By the way XR400R, "dessert" is what you eat after dinner, like ice cream or something.

 

Have you checked the fuel pressure? It should be about 35psi at idle and roughly 40 with the engine off. Also check the EGR valve and make sure it's not hanging open. Use the timing light to verify that the timing is advancing with the throttle as well.

 

Oh. what kind of discussion do I start!
1. sorry about my wrong definition but i'm a born German and english is only my second laguage.
2. Sorry about "dessert". I define Dessert all natur offroad like my friends in bandera.Tx and there is also raining. Ok in future I will call it only offroad. Ist outside the streets in a naturepark and a lot of mud! The hole wintertime it was only raining here.
3. I do not want collect mony! I put in the price for Gas only to sensibilyse how importend high mpg is for us. last time I was in Tx, I payd 1.30$ for a gallon. in Germany are over 80% Tax on cargas. LPG cost the half price!
4. I will make the Engine first correct running on Gas before I start to try LPG to make shure that everything is workin well. The fire under the hood locks more like a Explosion back thru the Airfilter as overheated harness. It must be yery hot and short - Airfiter, braekefluidreservoir, membran of the braekbooster and watercase are smelt -but on the harness and fusebox nothing mutch.
5. thanks to the members with good ideas:
a)the harness down to the E4OD is the only one I havend test so i will do that
b)Ok, now we are tho who think that the EEC internal must work the same - thats what I read also in the Servicemanual. It makes no differenz in testing, connektor layout and values betwin Exxx and Fxxx 351 with E4OD.
C)I check the fuel pressure (but only with a adapter Ibuild and the Manometer of my airkompressor. it shows only 30psi and falls down a little bit at WOT

I found a lot of litherature about EEC IV and how it works so I have now a better understanding and will rebuild and clean now the EGR-Valve.

 

This is backwards, 30psi is OK at idle but at WOT the pressure should go up to 40+ psi.
Low vacuum = more fuel pressure.
Vacuum hose off = 45 psi.

Do not worry about some of the posts, those posters have not reached man hood yet.