The bolt that holds one of the the idler pulleys on (one below tensioner pulley)
is worn out causing the actual pulley to wobble. I already put a new pulley on it but the bolt itself has too much play in it.
Was wondering if anyone had one laying around or a fast place to orderone.
Thanks...

 

anyone?anyone?

 

id go to a parts house and pick the whole assembly up (pulley and all), i was going down the highway at 75mph and had one of those simply explode on me and its not a good feeling. i had the same symptoms ur truck had, wobbling pulley. limped it home the 20 or so miles on prayers. if i recall, the whole assembly was under $20

 

I my grooved pully crater about 2 weeks ago 30 miles from the Alaskan border. The bearing came completely apart and the pully was laying on the frame. My wife picked one up from the dealer (who was very helpful) the price was $35 and included the bolt. After a $100 to to the border and a midnight drive by her to bring the parts 15 minutes fixed the problem and was on the way home. for the price will cary both on my next trip south



This was a stock 396 350 crew cab

 

I got screwed then because I bought the pulley already but it didnt come with a bolt..

 

I replaced my tensioner and an idler pully a while back cause I had the same problem, where the bolt wore out, and the pulley was bad too.

I couldn't find a bolt for one or the other, but I think it was the tensioner.

So I took the old bolt to the parts store, and matched the thread with a regular high-grade bolt. The tricky part was that I needed to use a big washer, because of the big wide head on the stock bolt. Then, with a washer, it was a little tough to find a washer and bolt combo that was low-profile enough to clear the serpentine belt. I experimented with a couple combos, and found one that gave me barely enough clearance - literally less than a milimeter. But that was like 10,000 miles or more ago, and I've been fine ever since.

I can't remember if I had to get a bolt that was a little long, and grind a few threads' worth off of the end. I think I just used a standard length, though.

Improvise at your own risk, and if you try this, make sure that:
1. the bolt is very high strength
2. the bolt is long enough to get as many threads in as the stock bolt, taking the washer into account
3. there is clearance between the bolt head and the belt, taking into account that as the belt stretches the tensioner will move, and the belt might get closer to the pully depending on which one it is.

 

Just to clarify - you have to be sure about both the verticle and horizontal clearance between the bolt and the belt. That is - the distance up and down between the bolt and the belt, and the distance forward and back between the bolt and the belt. On the tensioner, the belt passes right in front of the bolt - and that's where I had such an issue finding a combo with enough clearance. Even if the pully looks like its gonna be in a place where the belt won't ever pass in front of it, you might want to still find a low-profile combo, just in case...

 

the idler pulley uses a funky bolt with an inside shoulder the pulley bearings ride on.
I cant see using a normal bolt,its not like the tensioner one.