I just found the balance card for the 2005 EMC motor - it was a 750+ HP 505 engine with the Scat 4.250 crank, the 6.700 rods, and a set of custom 4.350 bore pistons. We balanced internally with 3 slugs - its the crank in the picture.

The pistons with pins weighed 759.8 (bricks),
rotating was 2236
recip weight was 2122.8
bob was 2297.4. Recip % was 50

I have two of the new steel cranks. Just checked them out at Performance Crankshaft (Adney Brown there is another EMC participant). They look OK, but need a little detailing to be installation ready. I will be offerring them with a finish grind and polish for about 100 bucks more than the going rate.

 

Cool Barry that sounds pretty good. You sure have some real nice deals on the stroker assys. And yes you got me thinkin!! All these nice new parts are torture!!! LOL

 

Yeah but Barry didnt you use the long skirt Speed pro's and tool steel pins on that build?

Yeah Glenn I agree ..all these new parts are driving me CRAZY!!! Well the guys in the other forum said I cant get 700hp out of the 463 build even if I up the cam and go to the HR BT Ported heads Barry has? So I guess I'am still stuck somewhere in the 600hp range..I'am not happy with that...and I still want it streetable on occation...One guy..No names mentioned..wrote me from the other forum and actually asked if I knew what kind of gas mileage I would get with this build....LMAO!!

I told him Yeah...My cousin works for Shell Oil and drives a tanker..and on weekends he's gonna follow me around!! What a DUMMY!! LOL

RJ

 

Awww c'mon Russ, be nice!!!

 

maybe with the lighter pistons that will help with the mallory. the diamond pistons for a 4.08 bore are only around 510 grams. I dont have it written down anywhere, arent the Mahle pistons even lighter than that? I am thinking around 480 or 460 grams, but I am probably wrong.

 

I think the more mallory the better (not for the wallet), but I've heard a few other times, and thought about it, that it makes tons of sense to have the weight closer to crank C/L, probly much better for high RPM's.

One question is say your conecting rod journal on your crank is drilled out hollow. which would reduce the weight of the throw on the crank, so couod you get away w/ less counterweight? Or no mallory...

 

This has gotten to be very interesting to read!! When I was building my 418FE. I used a Brand New scat crank and had it internally balanced. And yes it had a slug put in each end of the fly wieghts could not tell you how much but they had to add weight to get it balanced. i am usind stock 427 ford rods and silvolite pistons)not sure of the weight). But the end result was a engine that will easily turn 7000rpm with the snap of the throttle!!! NOt sure if less weight or not is an advantage, but if all is balanced right it should not matter.

 

External balance was Ford's way of keeping the bean counters happy years ago, internal is the only way for a motor to have long life hitting high rpm's at times.
Smooth on the outside shaking on the inside (external balanced) or smooth on the inside and the outside. Your choice here going cheap will bite you in the butt, bearings and the wallet over time.
This FE stuff ain't no light weight 8,000 plus rpm toy (YOTA) motor but a heavy mass of iron rotating at up to 7,000 rpm's. Want it to live balance it correctly or go home.

 

Who...what...where....??? Russ I didn't see that posted on the forum about your build?? What the heck happened??

 

Im sure you all ready know but Survival Motorsports makes some cool FE stroker kits
survivalmotorsports.com


Up to 500 cubes!!!!

 

I have started the build. everything comming out ok, I ended up buying the 4.250 stroker assembly from Barry. the only glitch I had was personal, and was because of the intended usage of the engine. I had to run .001 under bearings for the mains in the block, that brought my clearance down from .003 to .0015. the rod bearings had .002, good. the rods and pistons came out good in weight, I had to mix and match to get them all the same and ended up with two odd *****, one was one gram heavy and one that was one gram lighter than the rest which all turned out within .2 grams of target. all the rods where really close in weight, it was the pistons that had a few weight differences, which was corrected for the most part with the rods anyhow. thats how come I couldnt correct the two. so I am happy with the way things are going anyhow. just got done checking spring installed height and pressure and the like on my heads, the springs that came with the cam are right on, maybe a little more poundage than what the card calls for, but within reason. still need to get the timing gear keys for the crank though, just noticed this one tonight. not the same as the old stock key. oh well I'll just take a measurment and purchase them. anyone else doing this build? Ill keep you posted.
I had the stock torque specs for the stock style rocker adjuster screws but I have lost it, anyone have it? seems like it was supposed to take seven ft-lbs to turn the screw(bolt), am I correct? I do still remeber where to get new bolts!

 

so, if anyone is interested I have a ballance card, I can post the info Ifn you would be interested.

 

7 ft lb breakaway on the adjuster screws.

Sounds like a nice build! Scat rotating assy? How heavy are the rods? My LeMans are 845 grams and 2 that are 846 grams.

 

The Scat cranks take two BB Chev keys - I buy 'em by the carton. PM me an address and I'll toss a couple in the mail if you need them....

 

My 418Fe runs jsut fine on the crap gas around. I just crank back the timing some. Tell I go to the track and run the 114octane in it. My pistons sit about .004" above the deck of the block, and i am using 66 cc heads. Makes a nice little race engine to go against the 385 guys!