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Problems starting 2001 ford escape

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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 02:06 PM
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Problems starting 2001 ford escape

I need help. I have just recently been having a problem with my 2001 ford escape XLT it has about 125000km on it now. The problem is when it is cold out as I live in Canada and you try to start it for the first time it won't stay at idle rpm. Sometimes it will start fine but most of the time it will start for a brief second and stall it will do this several times until you hold the gas pedal down a little to rev it higher and then after doing this for usually about 10secs it seems the idle kicks in and it runs fine from then on. Also once it has been running for a few mins it seems to start fine until you let it sit for a good couple hours again. I have already taken it in to a ford dealer and they ran a computer analysis on it and everything turned up fine. They told me there wasn't much else they could check unless a prolem light were to come on which there isn't and I don't have the money to just start changing everything. Now here's a thought I had, I recently changed the spark plugs myself about 4 months ago and I did use cheaper ones MGK but they were the platnium. Now I read somewhere that sometimes when your vehicle won't start when its cold or damp that its the plugs would this make any sense. I have also just changed the fuel filter about 3 months ago as well. This problem is getting real annoying to me as I've never sure it it will start after work now. I have never had it die on me while moving or after its been running for a while just on the first start up, and sometimes it will start but it will barely idle enough to keep it running like around 300revs and then it will usually die shortly after unless like I said you give it a little gas and then it seems to rev itself up and then idle fine. Does anyone have a clue what this might be maybe some cheap things I could change without costing a fortune. Thanks in advance for any help.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 08:13 PM
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IAC valve is sticking. Clean or replace it.
 
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Old Feb 24, 2007 | 11:07 PM
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Thanks I never even thought about that, about how much does the IAC valve cost and I assume its very easy to change as most of them are? Also are you very sure this is the problem or is there anything else that might do that. Thanks for the info muchly appreciated.
 
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 07:07 AM
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I was thinking IAC as well but didn't want to jump in too early. I would maybe clean it with THROTTLE BODY cleaner (NOT carb cleaner) and put it back in. If it seems a bit better then I would buy a new one. Just my $0.02.

-Matt
 
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Old Feb 25, 2007 | 10:15 AM
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Originally Posted by dawson2381
Thanks I never even thought about that, about how much does the IAC valve cost and I assume its very easy to change as most of them are? Also are you very sure this is the problem or is there anything else that might do that. Thanks for the info muchly appreciated.
IAC is the likely culprit based on your description and because this has been the cause of idle problems for many others. You can get aftermarket IACs. Rockauto may even carry a Motorcraft replacement. They are around $60-ish from a Ford dealer. Very easy to change.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:23 AM
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Well I changed the IAC valve and thought that solved my problem as it ran good for about one day however now it seems to be even worse it is very hard to get it started in cold weather in warmer weather it starts a little better but not good. Anyway now it idle's horrible it goes up and down and vibrates like crazy I don't know what else to try I've already had it in twice and they told me it was fine. Anyone have any other suggestions as to what might be causing this. Thanks
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 10:42 AM
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The vibrations sounds like one or more cylinders aren't firing properly. Could you have a bad COP or even more than one? They should easily show up when the motor is plugged in for a diagnosis so this seems a bit weird that you wouldn't have caught it earlier. You might pull one of the accessible front plugs and see if the electrodes look normal.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 08:15 PM
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"I've already had it in twice and they told me it was fine."

There's your problem right there...If they can't find anything wrong with those symptoms, go elsewhere.
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 09:31 PM
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When is the last time you changed/checked plug wires?
 
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Old Mar 2, 2007 | 11:08 PM
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well the plugs were done about 6 months ago or so and the wires well I don't think they have ever been changed do you think that would make it that hard to start though I know it would make it run rough but maybe that is the problem I don't know anymore. Would the diagnosis not tell them that though if I had a bad plug wire. It does seem fine when your moving its just when it idles down.
 
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Old Mar 3, 2007 | 08:53 AM
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Plug wires wear out at unpredictable times. One bad wire(a short) can cause inconsistant engine performance, and poor engine warm up time. Usually, when I change plugs, I change out the wires too. Make sure to use the better grade when you shop for them.
 

Last edited by sfcwoodret; Mar 3, 2007 at 08:57 AM.
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Old Mar 5, 2007 | 06:58 PM
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So I think I may have finally found the problem. I took my Escape back in to a different ford dealer and they found a EGR code showing it was plugged. They told me this would be causing the bad idle and bad running when at low idle speeds, however I was wondering would this cause problems with it starting to I have just never heard of that before, let me know what you guys think if you agree this could be the problem because I have to wait for 2 days to get the new part anyway.
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 03:18 PM
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I have the same problem . Where is the IAC valve connected?
 
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Old Mar 25, 2007 | 07:40 PM
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plug wires?

Ok boys call me crazy but i have 2001 3.0, and it has individul coil packs. My point that it does not have your normal plug wires like that are insulated and often times burn on a a manifold. This is new technology that does not need changing correct?
Please don't take insult from this post as I'm and old school car (spark, fuel, air), kinda guy!
 
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Old Mar 26, 2007 | 07:46 AM
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The IAC valve is connected to the throttle body. Its round and silver, probably held on with two small bolts.
 
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