Hey All,

I had swithched from the regular tow mirrors to the integrated turn signal ones. I spliced the park lights to the wire in the headlamp/parking lights switch. Then I located the left and right turn signal wires in the steering column and spliced into them. Now the problem, about once a week my parking light fuse will blow. I also noticed that on the passenger mirrror, it looks like the turn signal light is lit up a little (very little).
Could there be a short in the mirror lights? The drivers side is fine. Any help is much appreciated!

2000 Excursion 7.3 2X4

 

bump. bump.

 

I know someone has the answer to this.

 

XylemXorro,

How did you splice the wires? Years ago when I spliced into a wire in my boat...I used one of the splice types that you "lay" the new wire into the plastic case and "squeeze" the metal spade...well I inadvertantly used the wrong size splice and I cut thru all but ONE STRAND of the wire I was splicing too!...when I was on the water and hit a good wave...my console would "reboot"...that may be the issue with the "low light"?

Now on your fuse...how did you separate the wires when you spliced? Is there a possibility something could be "touching" due to vibrations when you drive? What part of the country are you from?...temperature could also be playing having with a "shaky" splice...

OR you may have a bad mirror...I would check all your connects FIRST especially since your pass marker has a dim glow to it...seems like it has a drain.

You could take the door panel off and disconnect the connector for the mirror and use your ohm meter to see the resistance in the turn signal lines both TO and FROM the mirror...remove the bulb (if you can) and measure to the socket of the connector to the socket of the bulb...if you cannot remove the bulb easily, measure power and return line...if you have a similar bulb, measure the resistance of that bulb to know how much resistance you should see in the line with the buld in place...if the bulb is out...you should measure 0 ohms when measuring the SAME line...BUT you want to measure power to ground line...that should be VERY HIGH resistance...or "open" in electrical terms...

Now measure BACK to your splices from the mirror connector...measuring power to ground should be OPEN...REALLY OPEN...like off the scale type OPEN...touching the probes together will bring the needle to ZERO ohms...

Hope that helps...or at least is someplace to try.

 

Thank you very much! Only one thing though, I should've mentioned that the turn signal glows when it's not being used.

 

Does it glow when the truck is off or when the key is in the ACC position? Or when the headlights or parking lights are on?...there may be a clue in light switch position...

If there is a short in your wiring/splices it could act like that depending on what is shorted...perhaps you have a short to the heater or power motor 12V...but I would slide the door cover off and hit it with an ohm meter...that may be the quickest to see what is happening...also you could put it to voltage mode to see if there is like 2 volts or something going to the light bulb...when you switch on the turn signal...your meter will "pulse" in voltage mode just as your blinker would blink...in parking mode...you should have straight 12 volts going to the bulb...

IF after all these measurements you think everything seems to be okay...you may have a "soft" short inside the mirror...and driving/vibrations is what makes it a "hard" short...could you have a pinched wired inside the door panel after you fished your wire?...a compressed/crushed wire that you fished...perhaps it is crushed inside the passengers door?...just another thought...as people get in and out of your passenger door...WHAM blows fuse...otherwise it is a "soft" short that just provides enough of a path to ground to "light" sofly your light...

Hope this makes sense...BTW...I am an electrical engineer...so hopefully I haven't used terms without explaining them...if I did...PLEASE ASK...I will certainly clarify...

good luck!

 

That's good stuff X. I was mainly concerned about the whole splicing set-up. I had ordered a pair of the fog lights w/ wiring harness and there was so much crap to it. I don't know the names of all the components, but I'm sure you have an idea of the harness. Anyway, after installing the fog lights and seeing everything that went with it, my splicing into existing wires for the mirrors seemed too simple. Know what I mean.

 

Well, I found the problem. I had sliced into the wrong wire for the right turn signal. The wire does flash when the turn signal is on, however when the truck is off and you hit the wire with a tester...something buzzes, actually makes a buzzing sound. Anyhow, I located the correct wire and viola.
However, I still don't know the deal with all the relays and whatnot w/ the fog light harness.

 

xylem,

glad you found the problem!

I actually installed my telescoping mirrors today...no turns or markers...just heat and power...so flat connector was all I had to disconnect and hook up to new mirrors...no splicing...I was done with both mirrors in under 45 minutes...now I've got the weather stripping as "buffer" to get in and out of the garage! ARGH!!!...I better be sober pulling in to the garage!

Not sure about the relays on the fogs...I haven't even thought about those on my Ex yet!...I know others have...surprised no one has chimed in yet...

 

Long nights and garages don't mix

 

heck just leaving for work reqiures "full" attention as the fit is truly tighter than my wallet with these new mirrors!!!

I cannot imagine after a "long" night!...you are SOOOOO right!!!