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My block heater hasn't work at all this winter. My rock drive finally dried enough
to crawl underneath the truck. I jiggle the wire a little and when I plugged it in
I thought I heard it start up but a car drove by at 40mph right at that time and of course I couldn't be sure so I went back under and felt it and it was getting warm to the touch.
What is the procedure for disconnecting the wire to make sure everything is clean at the heater connection?
I went to try and start the truck, and it would just crank crank crank crank then finally start and it would blow white smoke out the exhaust something crazy. Find the truck that blows the most black smoke and my truck blowing white smoke would put him to shame(maybe not that bad but it was ALOT). If i plugged it in it would help, tried jumping the relay that didnt help. So there was only one thing left and that was to ohm out the glow plugs and they ALL failed. You can test them by using an ohm meter, and on the valve cover gasket, there is 9 wires. The two on the outter most edge are injectors. The one in the dead center is ground and the other 4 are the glow plugs. You ohm them and if they go over 2 ohms they are considered bad.
John, I was always told that the four outer larger pins were the plugs. Mine was doing the same early winter, smoked like a chimney. My relay checked good put replaced it anyways. Picked it up at the Dearborn Int. Dealer. $50 bucks. The truck now starts alot better, but, will now and again act up below 10dg, but still starts. My G/plugs came it at 1 when tested but I will change them this fall. If you haven't already try a bottle of Stanadyne and watch it come alive...Joe
You are correct on this JD, ive been on injectors, and have been testing that and had my mind in a different place posting. The two outter most pins are glow plugs the inners are the injectors. Ive never been to a int. dealer in michigan, the only one i ever knew of around me was in warren tri country truck. Im gonna try the dearborn place to see if they know anything about the oil dipstick tube flange fix kit.
When I checked mine last, all the glows came back with a 1, I heard thats ok. Due to the age of mine and the cold we have to go through, I'm changing mine this fall. Do you know which are the best?, thanks Joe.
An engine block heater warms the engine coolant, which improves starting, warms up the engine faster and allows the heater-defroster system to respond quickly. Use of an engine block heater is strongly recommended if you live in a region where temperatures reach -23C or -10F or below. For best results, plug the heater in at least 3 hours before starting the vehicle. Using the heater for longer than three hours will not harm the engine, so the heater can be plugged in the night before starting the vehicle. (page 130)
IMHO- I plug mine in when temps go below freezing, not because my truck won't start, but more because it is easier on the motor as well as a defrosted windshield and lukewarm air through the heater vents. Plus I don't wake my neighbors as much since it runs quieter.
What do you all think about synthetics? Thinking about running it soon, have a bunch of DELO 400 I need to use up, but then would like to run synthetic only if mpg is noticeable and noise is quieter. What do you recommend? Co-worker with a Duramax is running AMSOIL and most of the talk I see on here is Rotella. Where do you get it, what viscosity do you recommend, any ideas? I live in SW Washington, so temps get below freezing during winter, otherwise generally mild temps.
This is my first winter to try synthetique and all i can say is wow! Big differance! Im going back to 15w40 dino for the summer but back to synthetique in the fall!!!
Rezvani's Latest Post-Apocalytic Monster Is a Ford F-150 Raptor Underneath
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