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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 07:29 PM
  #1  
Bigfoot658's Avatar
Bigfoot658
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2003 Brake Problems

2003 F150 Supercab FX4

I bought the truck with 23000 miles on it. At about 35000 It started vibrating when i applied the brakes. Had brakes checked, pads ok, turned rotors on front, did ok for a few days and then started vibrating again. Went back to shop had the rear rotors turned. Ok for a month or so. When it started again I had all 4 rotors turned and new pads put on. No problems for 2-3000 miles and then started vibrating and making noise again.

Are Fords rotors defective for this year??? I need to resolve this before the Warranty runs out!
 
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Old Feb 18, 2007 | 08:05 PM
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Hello and Welcome to the forum!

The rotors are lighter (to save gas) and are not defective for your year. There is a wide range of opinion about the rotors, some stay stock while others go for a different rotor (slotted, cyro, drilled, etc). Sometimes it is not possible to have your rotors turned just because there isn't enough material for them to be turned. Once turned, they are lighter and susceptible to warpage sooner.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 01:22 AM
  #3  
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Bluegrass 7
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There is to much unknown sofar.
Questions are has there been any attempt to look at suspension loosness?
Is it the front or the rear causing the problem?
Does it happen when coasting down in neutral?
Is the ABS falsely kicking in?
How do you know they did all of what they said?
Some effort has to be put forth to isolate the source and not just attack the pads and discs.
It sounds like the work that has been done is not the root cause but only delays the result again until the pads and disc surfaces seat again.
Tell them to try harder, that how they are looking at it isn't good enough.
Have A firm talk with the service manger.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:06 AM
  #4  
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jimm66
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From: Green Bay WI. / Wawa Ont.
Originally Posted by Ultramagdan
Hello and Welcome to the forum!

The rotors are lighter (to save gas) and are not defective for your year. There is a wide range of opinion about the rotors, some stay stock while others go for a different rotor (slotted, cyro, drilled, etc). Sometimes it is not possible to have your rotors turned just because there isn't enough material for them to be turned. Once turned, they are lighter and susceptible to warpage sooner.
Nothing like a good heavy after market rotor. Will solve the problem.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 08:53 AM
  #5  
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BALUKAS
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When replacing rotors, use only ford rotors. They are much heavier duty. Also make sure your brake pads slide freely. Rust forms under the slides, which pushes against the pads causing the pads to not move. This usually happens to the inner pad. the pad doesn't hit the rotor properly. Rust then forms on the rotor causing vibration. Heat can also cause this. I remove my calipers every 15000 miles to make sure the pads move freely.
 
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 09:23 AM
  #6  
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3-RANGERS
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Question

Hi Bigfoot658,
I have to say that there is just not enough information about the problem to offer a proper diagnosis. It could be a lot of different things. But it may not be the rotors. For me to base an assumption that it is the rotors because I read “it started vibrating and making noise again” after the rotors were turned? I can’t do that. I do agree with Bluegrass by saying that there is other information needed. Like, what kind of noises are you hearing or where is the vibration felt? Is it in the floor. steering wheel, brake pedal? Have you hit any big pot holes lately? Have the tires been recently replaced? Does the truck pull to one side or the other when hitting the brakes and the vibration happens? Are the wheels caked with mud? Do you use your parking brake and is it releasing completely? Sometimes the cables or mechanical system in the rear disks will bind or stick. This may overheat and warp your rear rotors in time. Have you felt all of the wheels near the lug bolts to check for heat? Is one hotter that the others? What kind of driving is being done when the vibration is felt? Does the vibration feel faster when braking from a faster speed than it does when braking from a slow speed? Even when the brake rotors warp they don’t always warp on both sides at the same time. Find the problem, and then change the part. I would love to help, I am sure that all of us would. That's why we joined this forum... But we still need to know more about the problem. Is there anything else that you can tell us? Joe
 

Last edited by 3-RANGERS; Feb 19, 2007 at 09:27 AM.
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Old Feb 19, 2007 | 02:02 PM
  #7  
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garyl4695
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Check Brake Fluid If It Is Dark You Could Over Heating, And Your Gettig Fine Bubbles In The Fluid. I Had Similar Problem, I Resurfaced Rotors Myself Emory Paper, Refaced Pads 80 Grit, Flushed Fluid Added Dot 5, [ Dot 3 Boils At 250 Dot 5 Boils At 550. Broke In Pads And Rotors By 60-0 Sixtimes Hard Braking. Don't Keep Foot On Brake After Braking This Worked For Me, Information Came From A For Tech.
 
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