I have looked in the haynes book and it appears you just reach in and twist the bulb holders out? but the battery seems to be pretty much in the way of doing so... is there another way of changing the headlight bulbs?

 

YES! Remove the battery first

 

I can do it on my '97 without removing the battery. Perhaps you need to try applying more 4-letter words- it always works for me eventually.

 

I don't know about the 2000's but on my 06 there are sliding metal tabs that
hold the headlight assembly in place. Pull the tabs up and the whole assembly
comes out. I was going to remove battery and try to reach in until I read the
owners manual.

 

I know that on my '98 it was a lot easier without the battery in place. However with only a few 4-letter words and some persistance it's not that bad of a job. If you have the cash get yourself a set of sylvania silverstars or something similar. It is well worth the money to be able to see better. You do get headlights flashed at you more often though.