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Hi,
I just installed a comp cams XE256 cam kit (springs, lifters, etc.) and just broke it in the other day. What i am wondering is, is it normal to have a slight tick at first. I lubed the cam and lifters with the cam lube and poured oil all over them and then primed the oiling system with a drill until oil came up throught the pushrods, so I know it had plenty of lube. I then ran it at 2500rpm for 25 mins per the instructions. However when I let it idle at around 700rpm I can still hear a very faint ticking sound. Is this common? maybe it will go away as i run it more? Thanks
That is not normal. Something is not right. Did you use diesel oil? The gasser oils do not have the right additives for a flat cam and you can wipe a cam lobe easy. There are numerous threads here and in the oil and lube forum about that problem.
either that, or you have a bad lifter like I do on a brand new build. I've come to a conclusion lately, comp cams lifters SUCK. I had this problem with the other motor, bad lifters and all. I went and bough some federal mogul lifters and we'll see how they work. I'll let you know
I had a tick on my 400 after I did the break-in. I looked closer and saw that the headers had blew out the cheap paper collector gaskets. I replaced those with a good copper set and also reset the preload on my lifters as I am running full roller rockers. I'm not sure what the problem was, but it was one of them, as it hasn't had a ticking sound since. Good luck
We too have had some very bad experiences with comp lifters, and using mogul lifters are much better. Comp lifters seem to be better set with adjustable valve train, like a chevy, and with zero to a few though clearance, not half a turn pre-load like conventional hydraulic lifters. The x-treme energy series cams are noisier, especially at idle, because of their rapid profile of opening and closing the valves. These cams are especially more critical to break them in properly. A good idea is to remove the inner springs on the valves while breaking the cam in, and then installing them later. I know this is a lot of work, but it prevents a burnt down cam. Use a high pressure grease on the lobes and lifters, and use a zinc oil additive in the oil as well as a diesel engine oil. Use a stethoscope to pin point which side the noise is coming from and then remove that rocker arm cover for further inspection.
newer diesel oil is no longer the panacea as it has now fallen under the new guidelines and has less zink (I am under the impression that '07 is the year the diesel oil changed- inform me if I'm wrong).
I have some older rotella that I'm saving for break ins but need to stock up on additives...THIS IS A BIG THING!!
are you sure it's not a small exhaust leak ie have you been able to pinpoint it using a steth or something. some exhaust leaks are virtually identical sounding to lifters. like '53 said above.
a slight tic at idle isn't going to kill you but i'd take the time to find out where, exactly it is coming from. Most times bad lifters ime make more noise at start and then quiet to a moderate tic as the oil pressure builds...but?
I'm going to cut the tops off some valve covers and spend a lot of time adjusting mine...when I use studs...
One other ? how was your pre-load on the lifters...were some taking more or less travel to tighten?
Last edited by roger dowty; Apr 5, 2007 at 12:34 AM.
It is possible that it is an exhaust leak as well, I will have to check, because I have had a leak at the flange were the pipe and manifolds meet before
newer diesel oil is no longer the panacea as it has now fallen under the new guidelines and has less zink (I am under the impression that '07 is the year the diesel oil changed- inform me if I'm wrong).
I have some older rotella that I'm saving for break ins but need to stock up on additives...THIS IS A BIG THING!!
are you sure it's not a small exhaust leak ie have you been able to pinpoint it using a steth or something. some exhaust leaks are virtually identical sounding to lifters. like '53 said above.
a slight tic at idle isn't going to kill you but i'd take the time to find out where, exactly it is coming from. Most times bad lifters ime make more noise at start and then quiet to a moderate tic as the oil pressure builds...but?
I'm going to cut the tops off some valve covers and spend a lot of time adjusting mine...when I use studs...
One other ? how was your pre-load on the lifters...were some taking more or less travel to tighten?
The standards did change this year. New diesel oil rating is CJ-4. I was concerned as well. Voiced those concerns to AskShell. They replied back (reply is posted in oil and lube forum in thread entitled something like "FYI For Those Of Us With Flat Tappet Cams"). The gist of Shell's response was that there is still more zinc (approx. 50%) than in a comparable SM rated oil. Shell engineer stated it should work well in the flat tappet engines.
Last edited by firstonraceday; Apr 5, 2007 at 07:14 AM.
I have some older rotella that I'm saving for break ins but need to stock up on additives...THIS IS A BIG THING!!
I'm stocked up on the old Rotella as well. I think one of the better additives to add is the Valvoline Synpower oil treatment. Great stuff, and gives a significant zinc boost to any oil.