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I've fot a 94 explorer, 4wd, eddie bauer edition, whats the trick to getting the rotor off. It looks like I need to pull some stuff off before I can get to the barring and take it off. This is on the drivers front. Probably something simple but its got me stumped. Can anyone help please? THANKS
You have a one pc bearing/rotor assembly on that truck, remove the brake assembly and the hub. Remove the axle locking nuts and pull the rotor/bearing.
Not on a '94... you have to disassemble the hub... you'll find a little C-Clip.. then a washer... then a plastic retainer spring piece.. then you have to pull the key out with a magnet and unthread the net... then the bearings/hub/seal/rotor all come off together.
Make sure you pile the parts in the order of removal and reinstall in the same order.
unthread the net... then the bearings/hub/seal/rotor all come off together.
Make sure you pile the parts in the order of removal and reinstall in the same order.
Good luck.
That is what I said, it is a "one piece rotor/bearing assembly" as opposed to the separate rotor that hangs on the wheel studs. Oh! Why do I even bother?
Last edited by aquanaut20; Feb 16, 2007 at 11:04 PM.
I can get the calipers off thats no big deal. It is a self locking hub. I just cant see how the stuff on the front part of the hub comes off but I can see the barring at the race. It would probably be a goodthing to have a chiltons book, I didnt even think of that this was my first thought. Thank you all for your input, it is much appreciated.
Not sure if you've done this yet, but use some parts cleaner, toothbrush, etc. to get the old grease out of the way so you can find the parts shown in the diagram.
I've done this job a bunch of times, using the diagram in the Haynes / Chilton's manuals (like the link from MazdaGuy). If you do a google search for another Explorer forum, you might also find a "diary" including pictures of the whole process written by a user.
The only real pain is the retaining key. You can use a magnet or a dental pick, just keep in mind that if it's not moving freely, you're doing something wrong. It's either bound up with old grease, or bound up by the nut. If you turn the nut slightly, it should relieve the pressure so the key comes right out with a magnet.
You also need a really large, deep socket to seat the bearings when putting it back together. They sell these at NAPA, etc. They are specific to the year, and to automatic hubs (the correct ones for this vintage auto hubs DO NOT have teeth). I have also done this with just channel lock pliers, not the best but it works.
There are lots of threads on this subject. Lots of people also complain about getting the spring-loaded hub actuator back onto the spindle, but I just use brute force and patience, never had a problem.
Another key tip: clean the inside of your auto hubs thoroughly before you start the brake job, fill them with ATF, and let them soak while you do the brakes, bearings, etc. Drain them as much as possible just before reinstalling, do not add grease to the spindle, etc. Grease (and the dirt it collects) is the enemy of properly operating auto hubs on these trucks.
When in doubt, do more searches. There's TONS of info online on this job.
Hey thanks for all your help. This has all been some real good help. As soon as my sons schedule and mine fit together we will tear into it and post our results. Hopefully this weekend.