I have two voltage readings from the relay plug. One is pin #2, which is one side of the coil. And the other is pin # 3, which is the HINGED side of the switch. Both have 12.6 volts with the truck off/keys out. Both have 12.1 with the keys in, truck in run. No change in either when I open the door. Is it normal to have 2 "hot" wires to the relay with the truck off? Will try to find the GEM now. Thanks for your help so far. Keep it coming.
Karma

 

Oh yeah, I have normal heat controls. 3 *****. Fan speed, temperature, foot/def/floor etc selector,

 

Did you try running jumper wires to the relay from its plug except for the ground and running a seperate ground to isolate if the ground is bad?

 

Yes two hot wires in that socket. Now if you could ground the other side of the coil when its clicking it should stop.

 

Also, the buzzing is this with the door open or closed? ..The weak link in this circut are the door switches. If there is a bad connection there it might throw the gem into a fit. Try opening and closing the door repeatedly to get it to stop..Ain't this fun.


Dick

 

I MAY have found the problem. I finally got the fuse panel out after removing the plugs on the side of the GEM and undoing the bolt holding all the wires to the back of the fuse panel. Lots of dust fell out, and the connections at the bottom were damp (dust didn't blow out). The GEM (I'm pretty sure) is about 1.5 x 4 x 6 inches. Everything looks great inside of it. With the GEM off the back of the panel, there are 3 clips along each side of the fuse panel to remove the back of it. The top comes off ok, but the bottom will not separate. From the little amount that I am able to separate the bottom, I can see that it looks fused together with rust! The wire leading to the interior lights is one of the bottom ones. I suspect that the insides of my fuse box are all rusted together at the bottom. Ford wants $390 CDN for a new fuse box. Ouch! They told me that on these trucks, it is a problem associated with the sealing of the windshield. One of the first things that he looks for with an electrical problem, is for signs of water having been on the fuse box. Might try to clean it up as best I can, and then put it back in. I don't really need interior lights for now.......until it starts effecting other components, that is.
Damn, Karma

 

Just read your last post. The buzzing is whether the doors are open or not. I had that problem with my old truck and did the WD40 thing. Tried it this time but it didn't help. At least it stopped raining now so that I can work standing on the ground instead of laying across the seat with my head under the dash.
Karma

 

Yes that is an issue with leaking windshields on the gem..Good job. Clean it up and get a new windshield.


Dick

 

Thanks. Truck is back together (with no peices left over!). Buzzing is still there if I put the relay in though.....Important thing is that everything else is still working. I didn't create any new problems by taking it all apart. I figure I can wait until it starts to affect other systems before forking over nearly $400 to Ford for a new fuse box. Maybe in the mean time, I can find one at an auto wrecker for cheaper.
Feels good to finally find out what was causing the problem.....but not so good to know how much it will cost.
It was a bit of a frustrating day out in the cold and rain chasing electrical gremlins around my truck. At least I know where they live now, and I can deal with them later, as long as they don't begin to multiply.
Do I have to get a whole new windsheild to re-seal it? Or can they re-seal my existing one. I think that it is the only windsheild that I have ever had without a ding in it.....which is actually quite surprising since for the past 6 years it has been a BC Forest Service Truck. Maybe the windsheild has been replaced already and the dampness/rust is from the old one. Any way to tell if the windsheild is stock or not? The current one has the "dots" and is tinted a bit blue at the top.
I'm actually finding it hard to believe that the windsheild can look as good as this one does after 6 years of heavy bush driving.
Karma

 

Yes you should replace it. The buzzing relay I feel is being caused by something other than the fuse box. You should brush up on electrical Diagnosing before you guess and spend needlessly.. You need to see what exactly is causeing the buzz..By substituting the two coil inputs..one at a time. You need a cd that gives you a drawing..

Dick

 

Sorry but, I just dont think that is the problem Did you try to substitute the ground with a jumper?

 

Not yet. Got dark on me, and started raining again. I agree with you that it might not be the problem. But, the fuse box was definately "fused" shut. Also, the wire right beside the one for the interior light is the one for the blower motor, which also sometimes stays on by itself.
A friend who is a ford mechanic is coming over tomorrow (hopefully) and he's going to look at it.
Thanks for all your help everyone. I appreciate it very much, and would welcome any other thoughts/comments.
Thanks,
Karma

 

That sounds promising good luck

 

Ok, new day. Plan for today is to get out my spare wire and build jumper wires for each tab on the relay, and also a new + and - wires for the light itself. I will then be able to power the relay/interior light directly from the battery. One by one, I will run another jumper from the relay to the fuse box, and then systematically test each one. Hopefully it will tell me where the problem is. Wish me luck. Karma

 

Good Luck! Start with the ground might save you some time.