EGR replacement
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EGR replacement
First the details, 97.5 4.6 v8. The check engine light is on. At times, here lately, the truck will stall when at low speeds. I have replaced the EGR Sensor about 3 weeks ago. I have two errors, 1 - EGR flow insufficient and 2, system too lean. They MAY be related to the EGR valve. I truly believe the EGR valve needs to be replaced.
I can remove the nut from the stand off and the forward bolt. The rear stand off is a 10mm deep and I can get that. I need help on the EGR line, what size is that blasted fitting? I have tried all sizes from 7/8ths to 1 1/8th and nothing seems to give me the fit to remove it. Is the silly thing Metric? If so, what size?
Any assistance you can give is appreciated.
I can remove the nut from the stand off and the forward bolt. The rear stand off is a 10mm deep and I can get that. I need help on the EGR line, what size is that blasted fitting? I have tried all sizes from 7/8ths to 1 1/8th and nothing seems to give me the fit to remove it. Is the silly thing Metric? If so, what size?
Any assistance you can give is appreciated.
Laughing Gas
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From: DC
It is very rare to have an EGR go bad. On the 4.6L the most likely cause of the insufficient EGR flow (PO401 I think) is clogged EGR ports under the throttle body or a bad DPFE. Have you cleaned the ports already?
Laughing Gas
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From: DC
The ports are located under the throttle body. You have to remove the TB to get at it and it is very common for them to be completely plugged with carbon. I tried to post a link to a website that has a good step by step, but it didn't go thru. Take a look at:
ford f150 dot net
In the how-to section.
ford f150 dot net
In the how-to section.
Posting Guru
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From: Louisville, Kentucky
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Hotshot
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From: St Louis
Originally Posted by 97RedFord
One more note on the truck, it has 207k on it.
As already noted, EGR valves very seldom fail.
Steve
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From: BC, Canada
Welcome to the forum 97RedFord 
If you still need to remove the EGR valve, after cleaning the ports, the nut on the tube should be 1 1/16".
The lean code may be caused by a vacuum leak. The most common place for that to happen is the elbow in the PCV hose where it attaches to the back of the intake manifold. The elbow splits and that causes a vacuum leak.
If you still need to remove the EGR valve, after cleaning the ports, the nut on the tube should be 1 1/16".
The lean code may be caused by a vacuum leak. The most common place for that to happen is the elbow in the PCV hose where it attaches to the back of the intake manifold. The elbow splits and that causes a vacuum leak.
Last edited by Racerguy; Feb 15, 2007 at 08:41 PM.
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I don't mind doing the throttle body work. I just have never done it before and am looking forward to doing it. The diagram from earlier is great but if anyone has step by step instructions it would be appreciated. I will also need a list of tools and supplies so I only make one run to the store. Thanks
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You don't need to remove the throttle body just yet. Take the EGR off the throttle body and shoot some chemtool B-12 in there, that should clean it out. I took my throttle body off today on my 99 5.4, to clean the 'clogged ports'. The ports are large and none were clogged. You can put a toothbrush into most of them. Shoot chemtool into the air intake where the butterfly valve is, after removing the air cleaner tube, until the black goes away. Once the black gets gone, you are done. Chemtool melts it off quickly. Takes about 10 minutes instead of 2 hours, plus all your vacuum hoses are probably old and yanking on them is not going to fix that either, changing them is another good idea.