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I bought a 1992 F150 Flareside about two months ago and everything was good. Now he check engine light comes on when truck is running for about 20 minutes. So I bought a code reader and it said "TPS fault during Dynamic Test." The truck still runs great, so do I need to replace this??
Another question-------- The temp gauge would read fine for 10 minutes then it would shoot up past the "L" on "normal" and would stay there. So I replaced the thermostat and still does it, no antifreeze leaks, or weird sounds. Antifreeze level is good.
Any advice would be great thanks!
Can't help you with the TPS problem but my 93 5.0l started overheating once.
Everything seemed fine - could not figure it out. For some reason I went to drain the system and opened the drain **** on the radiator and nothing came out. Turned out the radiator was so filled with sludge that it would not circulate.
Try draining some coolant from the drain **** - if nothing (or mud) comes out, then there you go.
I think you should possibly check the wire to the temp probe a if it's ok you'll probably have to replace it as I read in the manual years ago that the computer needs that info to adjust timing ,mixture ect. in varying temps and load conditions.I may be all wet about this but when it happened on my Daytona it really did affect the milage . When I re-attached the probe the car did run cooler and smoother.( for a Dodge anyway )
I've heard many a people on here say that the temp sensors on fords can be in error.
But check to make sure your system isn't sludged up.
Prestone makes some good products to take care of this. Self flush kit, which works great. I got a jug of wash out to use still. You mix it with water after you flush the system, and run it for about 8 hours, and it will eat up all the nasty stuff.
Dont leave it in to long though, cause it will start to eat up hoses.
Now I let it warm up for 5 minutes in the morning, Drive less then 2 miles and the temp in below normal and the air out of the vents is nice and warm, then about 4 more miles down the road the temp gauge will almost go into the redline and the air from the heater will be ICE cold, but when I check the coolent over flow it will be empty evertime. The coolent level is good Replaced the thermostat 20 miles ago, and recently had the coolant changed and a tune up.
The inlet hose for the heater core will be hot, but the outlet will be ice cold. I disconnected the outlet from the heater core and blew down it and coolent came out of the inlet. Is it possible that the outlet hose is clogged?? But then why would I be able to blow coolant out????
Yea, as he said not having coolant will cause you gauge to go up and your vents to get cold do to the fact that the air in it's place makes the engine get real hot (watch out don't let it stay hot long), and the air also causes the heater not to work, or if perhaps its flucuates, you may even have an air pocket in the system...
Trust me do NOT let that truck stay in the red zone, I just had a huge issue trying to figuire out why my coolant kept disappearing (piston pressure was blowing it out through the resevior), and it turned out it was head gaskets... CAUSE: Overheating engine...
Check your hoses, if your resevior is always empty, your coolant is going somewhere, and thats why your heater isn't working either.
If it hits the redzone you may want to shut off your engine, it really can ruin head gaskets fast...
I hope for you its only a clogged or leaking hose... check the resevior hose as well, and make sure all of the hoses are nice and tight.