Too much fuel pressure??
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
Sounds good. As for storage, make sure you drain all the fuel out before you shelve it. If you're going to rebuild it, I'd rebuild it right before you use it, as opposed to rebuilding it now and then letting it sit for a long time. I've left old carbs sitting on the shelf with no problem, they just might stink a little. You could probably put it in a box or wrap it up to help.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IN
Well, here's the plan, to finish my thread up here. I was given two carbs last night, one Holley 4160 4bbl, and a Quadrajet, plus the adapter to put them on my 2bbl intake. I know this isn't a high performance option, but, at the moment, one of these has to be better than the current setup. I should hopefully be ordering a 4bbl intake soon. I'm still open to options, and if someone thinks one of these would work better than the other, I'm open to thoughts. Thanks again to everyone.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IN
Ok great. Hopefully one or the other will prove succesful. I'm picking up an adapter plate tomorrow from Napa, and while it's not the true direction I want to go, it will have to suffice until I can order a new intake.
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IN
Well the 4bbl swap was a success, though the Quadrajet wouldn't fit the adapter, the Holley with some modification did do the job. One note about these adapters, some holes will need to be plugged. I ended up using the Holley 4160 on this setup, and originally, we had a major vaccum leak that I couldn't find. Turns out that two of the holes, that would be used to mount a smaller 4bbl carb on this adapter, were wide open to the bottom of the carb. I used a couple of pieces of plastic from the adapter package, and fit them over the holes, and used some gasket sealer to hold them in place, then I used 2 gaskets between the adapter and the carb. All of this assembled has the truck running great. Now to track down this rod knock I think I have 
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Senior User
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 146
Likes: 0
From: Bloomington, IN
If what I have been told is accurate, it should only have 122,000 miles on it. I am the second owner that has actually driven it, and the first only used it for weekend trips, so it didn't see much use. I can't hear the knock when the engine is cold, and even when the engine warms up, I can't hear it, but, if I am driving at highway speeds and I let off the accelerator, I will hear it, and from there, if I fully let off, and the engine starts "braking" it will go away, and if I accelerate harder, it will go away, then once you park, and the idle rises, you really hear it. I've read this in a few other posts, so I had assumed this to be the case. I am wondering if just changing the oil with a thicker weight would help anything or not. Could it still be carb and timing related? I haven't been able to hit the timing with a light yet, but advance or retard doesn't seem to change what I'm hearing. I can't really afford to have to pull the engine, as if I did have to rebuild, it would become a 400. Is it possible, that if this is a new development, that I could just replace the rod bearings and let it live a little longer?
Last edited by soundman502; Mar 7, 2007 at 08:46 AM.
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Moderator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 22,436
Likes: 17
From: Louisville,Ky.
If it is knocking, usually the crank will have scarring and the new bearing will not last long. The crank usually needs to be turned or replaced. If that is the case, then you could buy a 400 crank kit. You would need the rods and pistons for a 400 too.
It does sound like a rod knocking. You can try 20w50 motor oil, but I'd doubt that it will help much.
It does sound like a rod knocking. You can try 20w50 motor oil, but I'd doubt that it will help much.
MSEE
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 10,386
Likes: 35
From: Austin, TX
I've got one of these engines that has no oil pressure at idle and maybe 20 pounds with the throttle pegged. 20W50 oil will get you some more life out of the engine. This is a 400 in a '73 Galaxie (same block as yours). The PO told me the oil light came on at idle around 125,000 miles or so. He changed to 20W50 and just kept going. Now it's at 150,000 miles. Oil pressure is still terrible, but the car still runs. I don't drive it regularly...it's currently a project in waiting.
Moderator
Joined: Dec 2001
Posts: 22,436
Likes: 17
From: Louisville,Ky.
I had an old 351C (71 Model) that held about 3lbs at idle and maybe 12 @ 5500rpm. It never would blow up. I tried. When I finally tore it down, one main bearing was overlapped about 1/2". Man, talk about Ford tough. The rods never knocked though. Just the deep main knocking when you first started it.
Freshman User
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 33
Likes: 1
On the topic of a flooding carb; I had the same problem up until tonight. Just tore the carb down, and it turned out that the clip that holds the float in place was not properly seated, and the entire float assembly was just floating up. I clipped it in, and it stopped flooding.
2¢
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