I know this is a Ford Forum, but I couldnt find a Dodge Forum to ask this question. They're related arent they?????

I have a 82 D150 with a 318. The alternator is over charging and boiling the battery. I have changed: alternator twice, regulator 3 times (two different brands) ignition control module twice, and coil twice.

It is burning up the electrical components one at a time.

I have had both alternators tested. 16.1 volts a idle and 19.6 volts a 2000 rpm.

I amgetting tired of changing parts trying to figure this out. I have also added an extra ground.

Anyone got any ideas????

Thanks

 

Well the output of an alternator is sole controlled by the regulator. Its up to the regulator how much current the alternator puts out. Now I am not familiar with that vehicle so I cant tell you much more about it. However I can tell you that running 19.6 volts to your vehicle is dangerous. Normally you risk blowing your computer, but being that it’s a 1982 I guess you dont have one. However that type of voltage is still dangerous to other things. So don’t run the vehicle above idle. Even 16.1 volts is pushing it.

Is that alternator externally regulated or internally regulated?

 

if this is an extenal regulator unplug the reg.
if it is still over charging then a wire is shorted
if not get a new regulator

 

It is externally regulated. If the regulator burns out, or I unplug it, the alternator quits charging.

 

see my post below about charging issues. I ended up adding a ground wire from the battery right to the regulator. Otherwise, I would double/triple check all your wires from alternator to regulator and make sure they're not broken/corroded, etc.

 

Thanks Guys!

As it turns out (after talking to a mechanic) on these dang Dodges, if you replace a regulator you also have to replace he resistor. Both are externally mounted.

I did that. I also found a couple wires that had been seriously heated and melted the insulation. I cut and replace them.

Now? After about 8 hours not driving, my battery is drained and it wont start. I have trouble getting a good connection on the battery post's with cables. I have to put the negative onto the engine block to get a good connection to jump off of.

I put an ohm meter on it and tested the system. I am getting a reading (with key off) from + battery post to engine, frame, and firewall of 13. Same as between the two battery post's.

I pulled the fuses one at a time, with no change on reading except one of the extra blocks in the fuse box. It went from a 13 to a 7 when I pulled the stereo memory lead from it.

WTF?

Is this a ground problem and maybe a short problem? Other than replace the harness (its too dang cold out now to do it) or trace out each section to see if I have a shorted wire, the only thing else I know to do is put a battery disconnect switch in.

The alternator is still over charging, but it isnt blowing regulators everyday!

Thanks.

 

There are 2 things that allow for charging the battery

The Alternator & the Voltage Regulator.

Unless you have a weird battery with internal problems..the cause is a one of the above.

 

Million,

This is the 3rd alternator, regulator, and ceramic reducer/resistor, all tested at 16 and 19 volts charge.

Whats next?

 

It's obviously possessed.

Do an exorcism on the electrical system by a medium.

 

This suggestion may not be the best option but it should work. If you cant figure it out you can always replace the alternator with a different internally regulated stand alone alternator. You would have to build a custom bracket to make it fit but it can be done. However I would only suggest that if you absolutely cant figure it out.