Evil Fuse #22
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Senior User
Joined: Apr 2005
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From: Inland Empire, So Cal
Originally Posted by DAVID'S97F250HD
A simple thing you can do to find a short, the fuse holder that keeps blowing your #22 fuse, make a pair of wires with spade conections, attach it to a test light and plug each spade in where the fuse went, because you have a short the light bulb will light up because now you introduced a load in the circuit. Now you dont have to deal with poping fuses.
Put it on you cowl under a wiper blade or something and then start dissconnecting stuff. when the light goes out, start hooking all the stuff you have dissconnected back up except for that one component that is causing the short circuit. test the componoent to assure its good or bad. If your positive that its good and not the cause of your problem, then check the wring in that circuit because the part as part of a normal operation could have a closed circuit and that part could be closing that cuicuit that has a shorted wire.
Put it on you cowl under a wiper blade or something and then start dissconnecting stuff. when the light goes out, start hooking all the stuff you have dissconnected back up except for that one component that is causing the short circuit. test the componoent to assure its good or bad. If your positive that its good and not the cause of your problem, then check the wring in that circuit because the part as part of a normal operation could have a closed circuit and that part could be closing that cuicuit that has a shorted wire.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
It's not stupid. OK, here's what you can do. Hook the test light up instead of putting a new fuse in the block. Then when you turn on the key the fuse would blow, right? Well, instead of the fuse blowing the light goes on and then you start playing with the wires, wiggling them and see if the light goes out. You may have a bare spot on one of the wires that is grounding out the wire. The light lets you keep the short alive without just blowing the fuse so you can try different things to see what eliminates the short. If just wiggling the wires doesn't make the light go out then you start unhooking different electrical components to try to find out which one is grounding out the wires that go to that fuse. Pay special attention to the wire that goes to the fuel heater element(the one you unplugged). Jim or Tim will come along and tell us everything that feeds off that fuse and how to unhook them for the purpose of testing and determining if that is the source of the short. ie: glowplug relay, IDM, PCM, etc.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
I posted this back in post #2:
The only things that could pop that fuse is the Fuel Heater, PCM relay and Glow Plug relay. All wires are red w/ light green tracer. (R/LG)
In the schematic below you can see the items that go through fuse #22. The power is coming from the ignition switch (Black triangle with a K in it) top left side of schematic, it goes though fuse #22 and supplies power to the 3 items stated above.
Install DAVID'S97F250HD test light above (rep points given) then do the following:
1. Leave the Fuel heater unplugged. The light should be on.
2. The splice (Engine Controls 28-7) just before the heater on the lower left side of the schematic is going to (R/LG) small wire on the GPR.
Remove this wire, does the light go off? If not leave the wire off.
3. Now Unplug the PCM relay, does the light go off? At this point the light must be off if not there may be a direct short in the fuse block.
The only things that could pop that fuse is the Fuel Heater, PCM relay and Glow Plug relay. All wires are red w/ light green tracer. (R/LG)
In the schematic below you can see the items that go through fuse #22. The power is coming from the ignition switch (Black triangle with a K in it) top left side of schematic, it goes though fuse #22 and supplies power to the 3 items stated above.
Install DAVID'S97F250HD test light above (rep points given) then do the following:
1. Leave the Fuel heater unplugged. The light should be on.
2. The splice (Engine Controls 28-7) just before the heater on the lower left side of the schematic is going to (R/LG) small wire on the GPR.
Remove this wire, does the light go off? If not leave the wire off.
3. Now Unplug the PCM relay, does the light go off? At this point the light must be off if not there may be a direct short in the fuse block.
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Feb 17, 2007 at 05:11 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2005
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From: West Palm Beach, Florida
That right there is one of the best helps I've ever seen. Repped. Jim is a definite asset. Thanks from all of us for delivering the goods time and time again. Keep up the great work Cuda Jim.
Last edited by F350_Hauler; Feb 17, 2007 at 10:48 AM.
Post Fiend
Joined: Oct 2003
Posts: 5,903
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From: MICHIGAN
Originally Posted by F350_Hauler
That right there is one of the best helps I've ever seen. Repped. Jim is a definite asset. Thanks from all of us for delivering the goods time and time again. Keep up the great work Cuda Jim.
I just hope he gets it going again. It's really stressful when your ride has trouble like this. Been there, done that! God, I hate using stupid sayings like that.
Last edited by Cuda_jim; Feb 17, 2007 at 04:24 PM.
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Hi everyone! I'm new to the site and am having the exact same problem as Bob! You've given some great information and I'm headed out to see if I can solve it. I have a 1999 F250 Super duty and I'm a Contractor and it's my biggest tool, I can't have it down to much work to take care of. Thanks for you info and I'll let you know if I solve it or I may have more question also.
Howie
Howie
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Well I used the technique of the two wire lead and a test light and traced and of the red wires with a green tracer. Now mind you my truck is in my driveway in front of my garage but it was also in the middle of a snow strom! I started unplugging things and the light did not go out until I got to the top plug at the fuel filter. Then it started clicking and flashing on an off.
So not having the patients and time to keep messing with it and the need to have my truck back I had it towed to the Ford dealer and showed them where I had gotten to. They called me back a few hours later and it did have something to do with the Fuel ignition system (when I get the paper work back I can let you know exactly), and that 30amp fuse also runs the computer system so when it blows the truck won't start.
I would like to keep reading through your site and get my truck running in tip top shape when I have time. This is a great web site and thanks for your help!
Howie
So not having the patients and time to keep messing with it and the need to have my truck back I had it towed to the Ford dealer and showed them where I had gotten to. They called me back a few hours later and it did have something to do with the Fuel ignition system (when I get the paper work back I can let you know exactly), and that 30amp fuse also runs the computer system so when it blows the truck won't start.
I would like to keep reading through your site and get my truck running in tip top shape when I have time. This is a great web site and thanks for your help!
Howie
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Originally Posted by HaroldTiller
Well I used the technique of the two wire lead and a test light and traced and of the red wires with a green tracer. Now mind you my truck is in my driveway in front of my garage but it was also in the middle of a snow strom! I started unplugging things and the light did not go out until I got to the top plug at the fuel filter. Then it started clicking and flashing on an off.
So not having the patients and time to keep messing with it and the need to have my truck back I had it towed to the Ford dealer and showed them where I had gotten to. They called me back a few hours later and it did have something to do with the Fuel ignition system (when I get the paper work back I can let you know exactly), and that 30amp fuse also runs the computer system so when it blows the truck won't start.
I would like to keep reading through your site and get my truck running in tip top shape when I have time. This is a great web site and thanks for your help!
Howie
So not having the patients and time to keep messing with it and the need to have my truck back I had it towed to the Ford dealer and showed them where I had gotten to. They called me back a few hours later and it did have something to do with the Fuel ignition system (when I get the paper work back I can let you know exactly), and that 30amp fuse also runs the computer system so when it blows the truck won't start.
I would like to keep reading through your site and get my truck running in tip top shape when I have time. This is a great web site and thanks for your help!
Howie
New User
Joined: Feb 2007
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Found the problem!
It turned out to be the Fuel Heater! I think you may have mentioned that in an earlier post as being one of the possible problems.
I had dropped my truck off to ford Wed afternoon and they had it back to me at 11:30 am Thurs morning.
I was back on the road.
Thanks to your help I was able to at least locate what the problem may have been.
Howie
I had dropped my truck off to ford Wed afternoon and they had it back to me at 11:30 am Thurs morning.
I was back on the road.
Thanks to your help I was able to at least locate what the problem may have been.
Howie
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Originally Posted by Cuda_jim
Dave, I think you can have your PCM reflashed to 99 injectors IIRC. Tim, tjbeggs, mentioned something on another post. Maybe he'll jump in here for ya.
I compared the IDM and of corse it was the same, the ecm pins were different even the power supply if I recall, actually I cant remember, is was a while ago.