Well after posting about adding a procharger to my 5.4 F-150 to adding a turbo to a Silverado i've finally come to the conclusion (after countless.. days.. to say the least, of internet searches, Master tect. talk time and professionals) that the best truck for me is my long dream of a Lightning. Now that i got it, the questions..

What does everyone think about substituting 1 qourt of Lucas oil for one of the 6 1/2 (or now 5 1/2) qourts of Motorcraft 5w20? (If that isn't the best oil for my truck then let me know!).. Also is the s/c tapped into the oil pan or does it have it's own supply that i need to change periodically?..can't remember

Mods are 6lb JLP pulley (boost gauge maxes out so thats what i assume is in there), JLP intake, Chip and bassani true duel X pipe modded-cat-back exhaust. If that make any difference..

Thanks guys..been a while

Ace

 

Stay away from the Lucas, and pretty much any other additive.

I would run 5w30 with more than stock boost.

The blower holds its own lube.

Do you mean the gauge goes almost to the speedo, or that it gets to the 10 psi mark? Most will get to the 10 without a pulley in good air, so you might not have a pulley.

 

Ok, good the only thing is that I just bought 5w20 so i guess i'll have to switch that out. It's way past the 10psi almost hitting the speedo, I have the stock one in hand, but which one's in the truck (lb.) I don't know.

 

With a stock pulley and a JLP cold air kit, my stock boost guage was pegged. Anything less than completely stock and the OEM boost guage is pretty much useless.

You can measure the lower pulley you have on your L right now, and see how many inches it is. Using the table below, you should get a pretty accurate reading as to how much more bost your s/c is producing.

7.5 inches = stock
8.0 = 2lbs
8.25 = 3lbs
8.5 = 4lbs
8.75 = 5lbs
9.0 = 6lbs
9.50-9.75 = 8lbs (depending on manufacturer)

Add approx .5 inches for every 2 lbs

There are guys who like the Lucas additive, and there are those who are like Silver Streak, and don't recommend it.

I'm in agreement with Silver Streak, because I don't like oil additives specifically made to make the oil "better".

Stewart

 

Looks like a 8lb pulley...sweet..ya that explanes the 0 traction anywhere below 40.

Another thing I changed the s/c oil today- how far am i supposed to fill the s/c up to? A friend told me to the treads, is that correct?

Thanks,
Ace

 

Congrats! Sounds like you have a nice ride there.
Might be a good idea to get it on a dyno just to make certain it has a good tune in it.
Better safe then sorry!

 

Hmmmm, 8lb lower? Usually guys won't go higher than a 6lb lower for a daily driver. Plus, overspinning the Eaton like that really doesn't do anything since it's way past operating parameters. Where did you buy the L?

Yes, fill the s/c with oil until, with the s/c level, the oil reaches the fill hole opening.

Curious, what oil did you put into the s/c?

I also agree with checking your tune on the dyno.

Stewart

 

Sweet!............If you want to have the BEST oil in your Lightning get some AMSOIL ASL 5W-30. I have been using it for awhile now and is the best oil I have ever used!

 

I bought just bought it from a dealer on a trade. I just re-measured it and it's exactly 9 1/4" so I assume its around a 8lb.

I used the GM supercharger oil, good thing I changed it too..it was about 2oz low and dark brown! also what does everyone think about the "boost bypass?" http://www.rpmoutlet.com/boost%20bypass.htm

 

I'll use a quote from the RPM website to help illustrate my information.

"The purpose of a boost bypass kit is to supply continuous boost from your supercharger when exceeding acceleration limits set by the factory. When acceleration exceeds factory limits, the boost actuator solenoid actuates the boost dump valve, relieving the superchargers pressure until the truck is shut down and restarted. "

A good example of "exceeding acceleration limits" is racing at the track. When you're in the water box, doing your burnout to heat up the tires, you can inadvertently exceed the limit, causing the boost valve dump to actuate. If that occurs and you don't turn off your engine and then restart it, when the light turns green and you stomp on the pedal, your Lightning will leave the line like a dog, worse than a n/a F150.

Now, can this condition occur on the street, in normal every day driving? I guess it can. It did to me on a rainy day, before I could react, and I redlined it faster than you can say "blown engine".

But other than the rare occasions on the street, about the only time you would need this bypass is when your racing at the 1/4 mile track, to keep it from happening when you're in the water box. So, just do what I do.



After you're finished racing for the day, just plug that back in and you're good to go.

Stewart

PS - Good call on the GM supercharger oil. Same stuff as from Ford, for about half the price.

 

Thanks S Harvey and everyone for your help!

Guess the next thing to do is install gauges and get it on the dyno. According to the Tech, (the only one at the dealer that UNDERSTOOD anything I was talking about) I should have 488/515- I'm very sketchy to say the least about that- even after he told me the L was already dyno tuned, maybe at the crank, idk . So thats probably another good reason to get it there..


What is the best combination of gauges for my situation?

 

My personal opinion for gauges are: Boost, Wideband A/F, and Fuel Pressure.

All three of those can help keep you from blowing your engine, or at the very least, help diagnose any problems you might have.

Stewart