The circuit looks like this.

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...tionSystem.JPG

 

The 8.2 volts may be in reference to the power supply to the module. It has it's own supply voltage from a different wire than the coil.

Hopefully a new working module will fix it.

 

The air gap under the ignition module is from a Ford TSB. The air gap does help dissipation a lot. There is almost zero heat conductivity to the fender.

Motorcraft modules are best. They can often be found at the salvage yard in perfect condition. Just take them to the parts store for testing.

 

Have replaced coil, ignition module, ignition switch, complete distributor and battery. Have checked voltage to + side of coil----reading 7.8 volts while running-----and as engine cuts off, and after engine is dead.

7.8 is way too low-sounds like you may have a faulty alternator regulator.

 

Update----still not "breaking" the fire.

Swapped out Ignition Module from NAPA---installed today and in process cleaned a hot wire junction post that feeds off of + battery side of solinoid and back into wiring harness going back through firewall and into cab. I see fuse links in this wiring going to cab. Voltage checks good on both sides of the coil----which leads me to believe that ignition is coming to the ignition module.

I am still not getting breaking action on the fire at the coil. Checking high tension wire to distributor and checking from tach post on coil to ground on engine-----I am not getting any pulsation (breaking action). Only one spark at initial turn over of engine in cranking process-----and a spark at time of cutting switch off on the high tension wire. Coil appears to be OK.

I also checked both the orange and purple wires from distributor pick up coil connecting to the ignition module-----get no reading at all on either of these wires while cranking engine over. Should one of these wires be "sending" to the distributor and the other "returning the signal" from the pickup coil to the ignition module?? Shouldn't I get a reading on these wires when cranking??

Late this afternoon, I carried this module back by the O'Reily's parts store and had it checked on their tester. It checked bad-----but two more modules they had in stock checked bad also. That makes a total of 4 that have checked bad----and they were all new replacement parts. (makes me wonder about the testing process??)

Additionally----in checking the ohm reading on the pickup module----I am not sure of what scale I should be set on. I am getting a reading of 0.591 on a scale setting of 2K. "sistreit" recommended last week a reading of 400---1000 ohms. Is the 0.591 considered to be 591----or should it be reading a full 400 or more??

Am planning on going by Ford and picking up a new Motorcraft module-----and hopefully get the pickup coil tested. Any ideas or recommendations will be appreciated------still "bumfuzzled"-----and still searching. Thanks----

edit: on checking the mount----it does have air flow behind the module, even though its mounted on the fender well. The fender well has a stamped (formed) ridge that allows air space under both sides of the module.

Delta Dirt

 

I'm running DS-II on a 1983 F-150 351W that came with DS-III. I installed the DS2 module in the exact same place the DS3 was. On the plastic inner fender. Its been running just fine for almost 3 years.

 

Check your ignition switch and or the ballast resistor...see the diagram in the link in mil1ion post above. I don't think you can run a direct + wire from the battery and have it work without the resistor

Read paragraph 6 in the link RE: the ballast resistor

 

Sounds to me like O'Reilly needs to service his module tester. Dont buy a new one yet. Can you go elsewhere to have the thing tested?

 

Talked to a Ford service tech today----he was real familiar with the Duraspark system and strongly suspects a blown or maybe a "near blown" fuse link in the circuit deliverying "juice" to the ignition module. Said he had been through a similar situation once that was very time consuming.

His suggestion is to get on the white wire and keep following it through all connections. He also said that the signal passed through the orange and purple wires from the distributor are so "minute" (real light voltage)----that you couldn't read them with normal test equipment.

Will chase wires and fuse links in a few days----got side tracked with some business today----looks like it might be the weekend before I get back to it.

Will keep y'all posted----and thanks for the advise and replies.

Delta Dirt

 

I would not worry about the white wire. The ignition will run without the white wire. It's the red wire that powers the module.

 

By your description you lose power to the ignition AFTER you switch from the start cycle to the run cycle.

Once again, if you look at the diagram in the link provided by mil1ion above you'll see the red wire is the run wire.

Maybe if you took a positive lead and connected it to the red (run) wire at your switch you could determine if the problem is in the switch.

Unless you or someone else has been tampering with the wiring, I have a strong suspicion a short in the ignition switch is your problem.

 

Maybe have a look at this DSII/III test?

http://www.clubfte.com/users/mil1ion...ulatorTest.JPG

 

Yep----no doubt red wire is the "run" wire. Thanks for catching me on that----I must have written it down wrong (find myself tending to transpose alot nowdays----thinking North and say South, etc.)

Mil1ion----

Diagram and test procedures should shed some light on the subject when I get back to it. Probably will be over the coming week end.

Thanks again to everyone.

Delta Dirt

 

Got a chance to do some testing this afternoon.

White wire checks hot (battery voltage)-----Voltage to Red wire is sporadic. Wire feeding Red wire to module is Red/light blue stripe.

Chased back into inside of firewall----had 7.4---7.8 volts at one time under dash just before going through firewall and then lost it (0). Went to switch and am not getting any reading from the post on the switch feeding the Red/light blue wire in any position or adjustment of the switch. (looks as if switch is bad----but it was replaced back in the fall)

Question:
(1) Is the ballast resistor in the line after it leaves the switch----or built into the switch itself??? From the diagram---it appears to be in the line. Based on what I am looking at----I am wondering if its not in the switch (with the Red/light blue stripe wire feeding directly out of the firewall end of the switch). Once I change the switch out-----exactly what should the ballast resistor look like on the wire (something like a fused link or so??)

(2) What voltage should I be reading coming off of the switch post feeding the Red/light blue stripe wire-----which in turn feeds ignition to the Red wire on the ignition module.

Mil1on-----what manual did your above diagram come from? Looks like I might should try to find a copy?

Thanks--

Delta Dirt

 

The resistance circuit is the wire itself.

That was from a Haynes Manual.

Here are your 80's fusible links

http://www.autozone.com/servlet/UiBr...3d800a75d0.jsp