Steps/Rocksliders
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Senior User
Joined: Feb 2006
Posts: 265
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From: Candler, NC
Steps/Rocksliders
Has anyone bought or built any steps or rock skis for their trucks? I'm not interested in thin wall smittybuilt stuff or stock type running boards or steps- I want something strong. I'm buying a tubing bender and I'm looking for some ideas to make some.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 855
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I have looked for quite some time with no luck. I want something that you can stick a high lift jack under and it will be strong enough to be able to lift that entire side of the truck. I have some schedule 160 piping that I plan on using (1" thick walls), but I am so busy that i havent had the time to fab it up yet.
Elder User
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 855
Likes: 5
I guess the reason that there are not a lot of these kind of products out there is due to the large size of these trucks. A lot of the guys doing rock crawling and what not tow their jeep to the trail with one of our rigs, then use the jeep to take the trail becuase of the better wheelbase and lighter weight. I would say that the vast majority of the SD trucks out there don't see the hardcore trails that would prompt the need for a rail of that type.
My suggestion is use a straight section of 1/4 wall tubing (2"or 3" your preference) run this from just behind the front tire to just in front of the rear tire. Don't try and bend the ends, just leave them square and cap them off. Then, come down under each door and bend a smaller step from thinner wall tubing. Tie the main tube into the frame with 2" square tubing and anchor it to the frame with at least 3 mounts. I would also say use a disconnect setup on the mounts similar to the reciever hitch on the back. If for some reason you bend the bar, want to get more clearance or whatever, all you have to do is pull three pins and you can drop the whole bar. If you want wicked strength and don't mind extra weight, you can fill the core of the main pipe with concrete.
A note on bars. The proper position when compared with commercial bars is that at its farthest point out, it won't extend out past the widest bulge in the main body panels. Disregard fender width and stick with just the main body width. If you go with lower steps , then you can tuck the main bar in tighter and closer to the body, but the lower steps still can't stick out too far or it will look wierd.
My suggestion is use a straight section of 1/4 wall tubing (2"or 3" your preference) run this from just behind the front tire to just in front of the rear tire. Don't try and bend the ends, just leave them square and cap them off. Then, come down under each door and bend a smaller step from thinner wall tubing. Tie the main tube into the frame with 2" square tubing and anchor it to the frame with at least 3 mounts. I would also say use a disconnect setup on the mounts similar to the reciever hitch on the back. If for some reason you bend the bar, want to get more clearance or whatever, all you have to do is pull three pins and you can drop the whole bar. If you want wicked strength and don't mind extra weight, you can fill the core of the main pipe with concrete.
A note on bars. The proper position when compared with commercial bars is that at its farthest point out, it won't extend out past the widest bulge in the main body panels. Disregard fender width and stick with just the main body width. If you go with lower steps , then you can tuck the main bar in tighter and closer to the body, but the lower steps still can't stick out too far or it will look wierd.
