Large flat dents
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Rushville, New York
Large flat dents
I'm am getting started on a 77 F150 4x4 Shortbed restoration. The only big thing that jumps out at me is a large flat dent in the front drivers side of the bed. No real shape point of impact. And no really sharp angel around the edges. It is also in the lower two thirds of that same panel. Where do I start and what should I have tool wise to tackle this. This is a first for me. SO be gentle, even though I don't advocate looking for the biggest hammer all the time, I have been known to swing one once in awhile. Thanks for any help you might be able to give. If more info is needed I'll be happy to give any and all that is needed.
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2006
Posts: 590
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From: Venetia, PA
Start by hitting/pulling the dent out on any body lines. If you straighten the body lines, the rest of the panel will usually follow on its own, unless the steel is creased. Dont hit/pull it out too far that you cant put bondo on it if necessary. Like forty said, pictures tell a much better story than words.
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Just a quick tip, if you have a heat gun, warm up the panel, not so much as to blister the paint, but having the panel heated up, especially on the old steel will make it easier to work with. I have to agree with the other advice on here too as far as getting it out.
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Joined: Dec 2006
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Thats a good starter dent LOL, as said above start around the out side of the dent working in, if you can get your hands a on a spot welder and a puller your golden. As long as it isnt work hardened (bad crease or buckle) it will be straight forward.Then when you get the dent up good enough for bondo or Mar-glass get a srinking hammer or use the spot welder and heat shrink it so it doesnt flip back on and shrink the metal back down to semi-original shape. you then you should be ready to go. (TIP) when pulling with the puller have a body hammer there to TAP around the the dent workharding it back into place.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Rushville, New York
Hey folks I have gotten a gallery together titled "Smooth 77" and have posted a few pics. I was wrong about what side the dent is on. It's on the passenger side. And looking at it I am not sure if it is one or two dents. The profile shows how the side of the box and the back of the cab aren't in line, "smooth", and there looks to be a dent above the cove on the side of the box. Any thoughts or suggestions thanks AL
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Elder User
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With the dent on the passenger side, it shouldn't be too hard to get out, but what I think I saw in the picture was the rust around the wheel well, if you're going to replace that piece, you might as well just go ahead and tackle that dent while you're at it.
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Junior User
Joined: Aug 2006
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From: Rushville, New York
Indy_ G the rust is the main body work. Question where have people feel they have found the best body replacement panals and how far up would you replace? And if there are little pockets of rust all along the bottom of the box, would it not be just as easy to cut the lenght of it a few inches above the wheel well and well in a replacement panal the whole length? Thanks for the help
AL
AL
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Keystone Crash Parts has locations all over the country and I'm pretty sure they have the patch panels for your bedsides. I'll look in the catalog tomorrow and see what they have available and the price. I've used their parts before and have never had any fit or finish issues with them. Aside from trying to get a direct factory replacement which I'd almost have to think isn't even available anymore, they have a great product at a good price. The one's for my 94 150 are only $22 a side.
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Junior User
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From: Rushville, New York
Indy--G That wasn't a typo was it $22 aside. I hope there around the Finger lakes in New York. Anyway what do you think of my idea of cutting the whole lower third or half of the side panal and just welding it all in at once instead of piece meal. Thanks AL
Elder User
Joined: Mar 2004
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From: Texas
Originally Posted by acc2828
I don't know if panels are availible in that size? What I was just thinking the less seams the less chance that I would warp the metal. Thanks AL
I can work a seam of about 3' with a minimum of warp-age. I have never tried a whole bed side panel. Sure it can be done, and is all the time, but not by me. Even with bright shop lights, I still manage to miss a stitch or so and only discover that when the entire patch has been worked smooth. Bondo is useless for filling pinholes because moisture can penetrate from the back side and eventually lift it. So back I am with the MIG to touch up what I can find by shining a light from behind.
Maybe just my lack of skill would prevent me from replacing an entire bed panel, but I still don't think it would be very easy and the odds of warping it are stacked against you, if you are not a professional.