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Well, for those of you who have been following my string of dilemmas, here is another wrench in the wheel.
Now that I have installed and block heater and replaced the batteries and post terminals, my starter will not work. I can't imagine why, once I installed the new batteries, it cranked over, and while it took a couple of minutes of cranking (on and off, not straight cranking) without my glowplugs working, it did start and I was able to drive it around.
Now, this happened last night after I drove it and again this morning, I went to turn the starter over and all I heard was *click*. So, I checked the battery connections, as I just replaced those, and made sure the cables were firmly in place, and tried again. *click*.
The "wait to start lamp" works, and all the gauges work, so I'm assuming it's the starter or its solenoid, or connections in there somewhere. Any further insite would be appreciated before I start pulling things apart. Again. Also, the "water in fuel" light turns on while I have the ignition in "start" position.
1988 7.3L diesel, 5 speed stick, 2WD
Last edited by Diesel Fiend; Feb 7, 2007 at 12:01 PM.
Please add in your post the year, model, engine, transmission. This will help us to help you without having to research what equipment you have. Thank you.
OK - if they don't dim - then you have a problem between the battery connection and the starter. Just start following the + wire from the battery to the starter and check all connections in between.
Last edited by bigredtruckmi; Feb 7, 2007 at 12:07 PM.
How many connections are there? I assume that the 2/0 gauge wire runs straight from the battery to the starter, and the 6 gauge wire runs from the starter relay to the starter solenoid as well. Is that it?
The positive wire from the batteries runs to the starter relay. The neg. wire runs to ground. Another wire runs fron the other heavy terminal on the starter relay to the solenoid on the starter. Check the tightness of all those connections. The click you here could be either the relay or the solenoid or both. If any of the connections are bad you may have enough juice to click the relays but not enough to run the starter. The bad news is that it could be your starter is shot.
Just an update. I used a circuit tester on the 2/0 wire from the battery to the starter and it's fine, I also tested the relay on both terminals and it's fine. So I am assuming that it's the connection from the relay to the solenoid, or the solenoid itself. Does this make sense?
If the solenoid clicks when you try to turn it over, then it is probably good. The brushes on your starter that provide power to the commutator maybe burned, or worn out. Also, the surface that the brushes set against on the commutator could have burn spots or abbrasions. The bushings on the starter could also be jamming up the rotation of the starter, if they got too hot. If you ask me, id say the starter is toasted.
Yeah, I got under and, with a friend on the ignition, tested the cable from the relay to the solenoid, and there was current there. So I have resolved to change out the starter. It's an '88 so it makes sense that parts are wearing out.
I picked up a used starter from a wrecker for $95 CAD, as well as a few new tools like a stubby wrachet and a set of driver extendors, and got it in. I bench tested it in the shop and it works, and it does come with a 3 month gaurantee. It's finally installed, it took my all day and two trips to the tool store and it works better than the last one did before it died. I've got the block heater on it now because the glowplug system doesn't work, and I'll see how it starts this evening.
Thanks guys for the help.
As far as cranking times, when the glow plugs were working I usually cranked it for no more than 5 seconds and waited 1 minute before trying again.