Do LED tailights interest you?
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Former ******
Joined: Nov 2004
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Do LED tailights interest you?
Who here is interested in clear LED tail lights for their vans? Or just LED lights period? Just trying to get an idea of if and who is interested because I want to try a little something. Not trying to sell anything, just want to know if anyone here is interested.
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Former ******
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Ok, and what paticular stlyes do you like? Do you want the OEM color scheme? Eurostyle, clear lenses with colored lens? Clear lenses with clear LEDs? Pictures of something you like?
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Former ******
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From: Salt Lake City, Utah
Maybe not as much of a dreamland as you think. Is you aleady know I have clear lenses on my Aerostar. I am using LED bulb replacements, however they do not have the correct resistors, so they blink a bit fast. Not too fast however, and it doesn't bother me. Anyone here know exactly what it takes to make the LEDs emulate the load of a real bulb so the blinkers don't misbehave?
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you need to make sure the LED board pulls just as much amps as the incandescent bulb. which means a ton of LEDs... that's a load of $$$ for that. pick up an electronic flasher for LEDs instead. that will solve your hyper blinking issue.
that feature is part of the bulb out detection circuit. when amperage draw drops below a threshold - i.e. blow 1 bulb. it triggers the hyper blink circuit.
alternative is to splice in a load equalizer resistor - basically a large *** resistor aka dummy load. or splice in a bulb. all of which IMO is a waste... LEDs draw less current and using this alternative negates that benefit completely. i would opt for the flasher for LED instead.
that feature is part of the bulb out detection circuit. when amperage draw drops below a threshold - i.e. blow 1 bulb. it triggers the hyper blink circuit.
alternative is to splice in a load equalizer resistor - basically a large *** resistor aka dummy load. or splice in a bulb. all of which IMO is a waste... LEDs draw less current and using this alternative negates that benefit completely. i would opt for the flasher for LED instead.
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??? the reason to install relay for headlamps is to shorten the wire run from the battery to the headlamp. the shorter the run the less voltage drop you get. the triggering of the relay is still done by the headlamp switch. but the coil (what the headlamp switch energizes) within the relay doesn't draw all that much amp compared against a bulb. the draw will not be sufficient to prevent the bulb out feature from tripping in this signalling app - in this app, the coil will be hooked up to the OE signal wire, and a battery feed go thru the switched portion to the LEDs. the relay will not solve the reduced amp draw situation. the flasher will continue to hyper flash due to the reduced amp draw.
on my aero, the flasher unit is a 3 prong unit. most automotive parts store have LED version of this flasher unit. just go in and swap out the flasher unit for one that works with LEDs. and call it a day.
on my aero, the flasher unit is a 3 prong unit. most automotive parts store have LED version of this flasher unit. just go in and swap out the flasher unit for one that works with LEDs. and call it a day.
Last edited by aerovan; Feb 9, 2007 at 06:25 AM.
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From: SoCal
One of the functions of the headlight relay is to provide shorter, thicker wires to drive the headlights. But I think the more important one is to prevent the headlight and multi-function switches from burning up, since the relay coils draw much less current.
I haven't seen any indicators of headlight out since I installed my relays.
Dunno for sure about the lower current draw of LEDs on the brake light circuit, however. But if you don't see failure lights for the RABs with the LEDs in place, and if your cruise control still works, and if your torque converter is still locking up at the appropriate times, I would say that the system is not complaining about the LEDs. You just need a blinker that triggers properly from lower current draws.
I haven't seen any indicators of headlight out since I installed my relays.
Dunno for sure about the lower current draw of LEDs on the brake light circuit, however. But if you don't see failure lights for the RABs with the LEDs in place, and if your cruise control still works, and if your torque converter is still locking up at the appropriate times, I would say that the system is not complaining about the LEDs. You just need a blinker that triggers properly from lower current draws.
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I was under the impression the the RABS and E4WD systems get their brake signal directly from the brake on brake off switch. My cruise control did not work before I installed my own LED taillights. It acts like a failure in the clockspring. The horn still works. The torque converter locks up perfectly.