Ok I have a 95 Ford Ranger XL manual 4 cyl. 4x4. I have a body lift on the truck and the nose is lower than the rear (these trucks are made like that) I heard that you can crank the T-Bars and level it out. I was wondering if anybody could tell me where to look under the truck to do this job. Pictures would be great. Or should i just back away from doing this? What else has to be done if anything. THANKS

 

I have pictures in the gallery if you want to check out the truck

 

Your 95 shouldn't have t-bars, it should have coils, torsion bar suspension didn't come out untill around 2000. You need spring spacers or longer front springs.

 

or just replacement springs more than likely will help bring it back some, I am sure the originals are sagging by now.

 

Just checked out your truck, your not off by much, 2" spring spacers would do it, or if you have the money to invest in a better set up, get new front springs that will lift you about 2". Sharp truck, but you need some tires on that thing, you allready have more lift than you have tire ha ha.

 

My '98 4x4 has torsion bars, so they were being used before 2000.

 

as does my 99

 

Ya I do need some new tires and wheels. I am just waiting for spring to roll around. What size wheels should I get. I want them to kinda be wide. I will probably go with 32 inch tires but how wide should i go with the wheel ?

 

98 was the first year for torsion bar front suspensions on Rangers, earlier Rangers had the coil springs.

 

ya i will smack myself in the forhead lol. I knew this but for some reason decided to put tbars who knows. Anyways what are some good coil springs to get and how hard is it to swap them

 

It really depends on how much money you want to spend. You could get some nice rancho, rough country, or superlift coils for it. actually www.jamesduff.com has alot of stuff for rangers and I guess their springs are pretty good. Installation is pretty strait forward, remove tire, unbolt shock, possibly the sway bar, and i dont think you need to touch the tie rod. There is one big nut holding the spring on, and it is usually rusty and will give you all sorts of trouble. Seriously listen to me on this one, the nut is like an 1-1/4 or 1-1/8, and it will take you like 3 hours per side to get the nut off. Before you even go out to get your springs, buy a can of PB Blaster, and only PB blaster, not WD40 or anything else, it has to be PB Blaster, and soak those nuts down, use alot of PB Blaster. Then wait a day, and soak them again, and possibly again. The stuff works magic i swear. It will take you less than an hour per side if you do this, otherwise you may never get it off. It will all depend on how rusty it is, if it doesnt have alot of rust, then you may be okay.

If you dont soak it with PB Blaster you will round off the nut with the wrench, and wind up clamping a vice grip on it and hitting that with a hammer to get it off. If you use the PB Blaster it will make things go much smoother for you.

 

take peter94's advice PB BLASTER is amazing! and 2 inch lift coils should level it out fine but if it doesnt.... i think you have lift blocks in the rear if you do there 2 inch and you could take them out...

and if you get flaired fenders in front and flair the rear you can get 33x12 no problem..

 

I said around 2000, not that 2000 was the first year, 98 is around 2000, give me a break hee hee.

 

Well with a mistake like that I suppose we can give you a break, would you prefer arm or leg?

 

Lets hear that again "I have a 95 Ford Ranger XL manual !!!!!!4 CYL!!!!!! 4x4."

Good luck with 33''s. 31''s dog down our 94 with the 4.0L.

Better plan on some 4.10's at the very very least.