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EDIT:
OK they are right, I just looked it up in the 89 Diagnostic Manual.
The circuit uses the Neutral Safety and grounds Pin #30 through the Starter Solenoid.
So it uses the Starter Solenoid even when the engine is running so yes it could kill your engine when you put it in gear with this wire not hooked up to the starter solenoid.
After rethinking this when you put it in gear the Neutral Safety switch would open the wire to the Starter Solenoid.
So with the NDS wire (pin 30) open or disconnected the idle would be higher in neutral but would be normal in gear so this is not your stalling problem.
Thanks for the diagrams. I'd been wishing I had photocopied the ones I had ever since I gave the book back. I figured out the ShopKey wiring diagram too. They tried putting 5.0/5.8 and AOD/E4OD all in one diagram making it very confusing.
You're right, it won't affect the stalling. I hooked it up to the S terminal today and ran it then checked codes.
KOER:
25 KS not sensed (I don't recall seeing a knock sensor on this engine)
52 PSPS open
KOEO:
52 PSPS open
Continuous:
29 VSS (not hooked up yet)
I can jumper the PSPS connector to get rid of that code, correct? As for the stalling problem, I found it only does it cold. I should check more thoroughly for vacuum leaks. I didn't find any obvious ones and when I unplug the IAC it dies. Any other ideas?
Thanks for the diagrams. I'd been wishing I had photocopied the ones I had ever since I gave the book back.
email me your email address and I can send a few pages, just tell me the ones you want. They will be from the 1988 manual.
Originally Posted by brown 4x4
KOER:
25 KS not sensed (I don't recall seeing a knock sensor on this engine)
The 5.0 had the knock sensor.
Originally Posted by brown 4x4
I can jumper the PSPS connector to get rid of that code, correct?
That would give you a higher idle. I do not think this one would turn on the CEL. I think it will only come up when you do a test. Also it needs to be active (turn wheel) only at the very start of the EOER test or you would still get codes.
Originally Posted by brown 4x4
As for the stalling problem, I found it only does it cold. I should check more thoroughly for vacuum leaks. I didn't find any obvious ones and when I unplug the IAC it dies. Any other ideas?
Might check the:
ECT (Engine Coolant Temperature sensor) the one with two wires on it.
ACT (Air Charge Temperature sensor)
TP (Throttle Position Sensor)
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