I have been reading this and other posts like it for many years, I don't chime in much because I want to make sure I am an expert on what I am posting before I offer advice to others. There are sooo many experts here, and people have different opinions, and here is mine:

the 300 is CHEAP to build up. Here is what I spent for parts and the labor was all my own (except exhaust) like most people here.

Offenhauser Dual Plane intake manifold......Ebay......$100
Headman Header......Summit Racing......$150
Holley 390 cfm......Ebay......$125
Dual Exhaust......Hot rod shop......$375

Total cost of Mods......$750......not too shabby huh?

my truck is an offroad truck mainly, but it has MORE THAN ENOUGH POWER to pull and work. I have pulled other trucks out of some CRAZY situations offroad and then loaded them up on the trailer after they were broke and hauled them home too. The mods listed above will not give you too much more torque, but they will make your slow 300 quite a bit snappier with a nice HP gain.

After the little money I spent on my 300 in my red truck, I have thought about building two more 300's, one for my crew cab (interstate hauling machine, currently a 351M) and my bronco (daily driver, currently a 400).

They are good motors, they last a long time, and they make lots of power in all the right places. Give it a go, you won't be dissapointed. Just reading at how much loyalty that these motors have from our readers should tell you a lot. Go in any other motor forum here and it's a different feel.

 

Finally someone other then myself that gets it about it not being overly expensive when wishing to give the 300 I-6 a tick more get up & go.
The whole idea is to make the 300 I-6 BREATHE better & that doesn't mean thousands of dollars needing to be invested.
Damn good post, olde boy.

 

Right on Col Flashman!! It isn't expensive and the bang for your buck is quite good. That and opening the hood when people say, "What do you have in that truck", "OMG, that IS a SIX cylinder." Especially after you just outwheeled a V8 without enough torque to spin 36's!

 

v6 or v8 dosen't matter to me ....i just want a little ..well a lot more get outta the way !.i like kaotikedge111100s thinking ,maybe i can save the engine that couldn't and make it one that could ! by the way what kinda power are we talking about !!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

Well when Father was building the 300 I-6's & just did the Mods that -K- listed, Minimum 50 extra HP.

 

I am running basically the same mods as -K- plus it's bored .040 over with an RV cam. I have a bit more money into mine but I bought most of my parts new, but these goodies can be found cheaply on the internet and at swap meets. My 300 six is sitting in an 84 F150 4x4 regular cab long bed, it has the bulletproof NP435 4 spd manual with creeper 1st. I installed a 4" suspension lift with 33" mudders, 4.10 gears, locker in the rear and limited slip up front. With this combo I can pull pretty much anything I hook it to, if it can't move it... it's because the tires are spinning. I can take off from a dead stop in 4th gear with this truck. It's decently quick, it'll lay rubber from first to second, and get a good scratch going into 3rd... I don't have any trouble passing most vehicles. Just like -K- I built my truck to be a truck not a racecar... hauling, towing, off roading. I am very pleased with my 300, I wouldn't even concider replacing it with a V8.

 

Big money is rarely needed on any engine build until you go beyond the stregth of the stock rotating assembly. Getting too that point is not very pricey at all. The only exception would probably be if you absolutely had to use an aftermarket head to get where you wanted to be, but that isn't needed on the 300. It will need to be ported to get the best return on your investment for the other mods, but that can be said of any engine. If you can't port a 300 head by yourself you couldn't port any other head. Paying someone to port 6 set of ports is cheaper than paying them for 8, so your still ahead of the game.

 

Just remember that P&Ping on the 300 I-6 Head should be Minimal, because if you full on one you Loose out on what you are attempting to achieve by doing so in the 1st place.

 

i drove it today for the first time in a week ,damn near got ran into .passed a joker in the fast lane (had some momentum) ,not wanting to struggle to get up another hill and he took it a little personal.he chased me ..haha...rode me with high beams ,then passed me, jammed on the brakes, i swerved outta the way so he tried to take my front end off ,almost sent me up and over the curb !

 

by the way anybody know how to adjust a 1bbl carb. i ve found 2 screws on right side and 1 on bottom left ...and while we're at it how about the timming ...wheres the vac advance .it would be greatly appreciated!!!!!!!!!

 

If it's the '50s-'60s olde style 1-Bbl Holley, of course, anything else, foreget it.

 

sorry not that ,some reman that was put on it b4 i got it...

 

Well if it's anything like a basic Holley, 1 is the Idol Adjustment Screw & the other is the Air Mixture Screw.
Just play w/ them & see how the engine re-acts & go from there.
Best I can do for you, I wish I could be of more help.

 

[QUOTE= I built my truck to be a truck not a racecar... hauling, towing, off roading. [[i want it to be a truck but i need it to move with a load in it,people in these hills have no pity or brains while driving near somebody who cant keep up

 

quote is from and to pkupman82 ..sorry still new to this