If I remember right, 44 hubs are 2.75" diameter across the lockout hub.
The 50 and 60 are over 3" in diameter.

Autozone, Advance Auto, NAPA and many other parts places have the socket.

 

I went to Advance Auto and they had a rental program that supplied you with all of the sockets for most 4x4 front ends. I really liked the set so I bought it out right. It has both Chevy sizes and both Ford sizes might work on a dodge set up but I have not had the displeasure. The set came with 5 sockets and I forgot how much I paid for it but it definately has paid for itself.

 

Thanks for all the replies, gentlemen.

I found the socket that I needed using all information from you, and measuring the ratcheting lock nut. I ended up finding the socket at K-119 tools and it is made by Lisle Tools # 2800, and made in the USA. A very well made tool and powder coated as well. It was very easy to undo the locknut with this tool.

The size of the hub is 3 1/8" inside measurement.

The size of the locking hub cover/handle is the same as the outside circumferance of the outside of the hub.

With this information that you have given me it appears that I have the Dana 50 or 60 front differential.

I almost have all the parts and will finish the job tomarrow.

Interestingly, Ford no longer has the hub and rotor assembly available. I wanted to have that combination to avoid the necessity of having to turn the rotors after they were assembled. I found some after market stock that should be available tomarrow. I am dreading to find out their origin.

More to come. -ED

 

yup. Dana 50 if ifs, Dana 60 if solid axle.

 

Well, here is the update. After going to several well known parts houses, first and including the Ford dealership, I finally have the right parts. LOL Everyone had something that worked but the right part came from a place I thought I would not patronize again. Anyway, I have one side done, that is to say I have replaced the inner seal, bearing., new calipers, pads and new install kit, new rotor/hub assembly(made in the USA), and new outer bearings.

I am wondering about the recommendations for torque on the locknut. I saw an issue by SK that stated that I should torque the locknut to 70 ft. # and then back it off 180 degrees and then retorque to 15 ft. #. Seems excessive to me. I did it and the rotor turns with little resistance.

Unfortunatly, I noticed that the rotor has some slight runout. I bought the rotor/hub assembly to avoid that very problem. At this point I am ready to just leave it alone and see how bad it will be when in use. Ugggg!

I hope to finish the other side tomarrow. Funny how a 2 1/2 hour job turns into a 3 day job just because of a parts hunt.

Anyway, if anyone has a comment on the project I would like to hear it. I am concerned about the 70 ft. # torque on the lock nut. ???

Thanks to all who have given me your time and expertese. This really is a great forum.

Thanks. -ED

 

Ed,

The procedure you outlined doesn't make much sense unless you mean "adjusting nut" rather than "lock nut." A lot depends on which type of nut your truck has. My '86 has the ratcheting style, which is the easiest. Others have double nuts, an inner adjusting nut and an outer lock nut with some kind of a locking device (round washer with little pin that goes between nuts, or a tabbed washer you bend over the flats of the nuts. Maybe your next purchase should be a service manual, huh?

I do it by feel... but I've been doing it for 35 years. One generic method that works:

1) Tighten the adjusting nut lightly while spinning rotor to seat bearing.
2) Torque the adjusting nut to 50 lbs-ft while spinning rotor.
3) Back off 1/4 turn.
4) Retorque to 30 lbs-ft, spinning rotor.
5) Endplay = .001-.006-in (if you have a dial indicator)

Putting 70 lbs-ft on the lock nut (the outer if it's the double nut style) is not outrageous.

Adjusting to 70 lbs-ft, backing off, and adjustinng to 15 lbs-ft should be pretty good too.

 

2 things. What do you mean by run out?

I have never heard of the ratcheting nut, and I've played with the 4X's for years.

 

I don't think I said "runout." Perhaps you meant "endplay?" If that's the case, it's the "wiggle" between the hub and the spindle. You can put a magnetic dial indicator on the rotor and set it to read on the the protruding part of the spindle to get a reading before you install the hub.

RE the ratcheting nut, that's my name for it. My '86 has it and I've seen it on other late '80s and '90s Fords. It has a four-sprong spanner nut in a cup-like device with a spring under it. There are teeth in the bottom of the nut and the inside of the cup so when it's tight, they keep it from backing off. No lock nut.

 

Unfortunatly, I noticed that the rotor has some slight runout.

This is what I was referring to. It was edsofish that had said it, I was just thinking I might learn something here.

As for the ratcheting nut, I haven't seen one like that, which is really wierd. My Fords are one of my biggest hobbies, and that is so wierd I've never seen that style. Cool- learn something new everyday. I'll have to ask Brian460 if his were that way-he is a good friend of mine.

 

Thanks for the replies gentelmen. Runout, I believe, is the wobble that is seen when the rotor is not parallel to the pads and there is intermittent contact of the two surfaces instead of continuous slight contact. In other words there is a discrepancy in the surface of the rotor. The reason I buy the rotor/hub assembly is that when they put the rotor and hub together in the factory, they turn them and they come out perfect. If you just replace the rotor over your old hub, you should have the rotor trued up to the hub. Its cheaper to buy the assembly.

I do have the ratcheting type of lock/adjusting nut you have, Jim. I found the procedure on a link that I found here on the forum under search. It was the recommendation of the SK bearing people. Thaks for the help, too.

I am now hunting down 16 9/16-18 x1 1/16 lug nuts. All the lug nuts were put on so strongly they became deformed. There is metal that has been forced into the wheel rim holes and have lost taper from that point. I guess noone torques them anymore. Those impact guns are very hard on the lug nuts and studs.

Well, have to pick up the little animals( kids). Thanks for all the replies and the best of the day to everyone.

-ED

 

year that this axle came out of? These are the numbers that I took off of it: 620093B 4.10 VE6TA SA V610255-3

Some site have said that it is:
FORD Model 60/248 FRONT 1986 - 1988 F-350 MONOBEAM DRW
It would be nice to know the exact yr. If anyone can help with this, I would appreciate it. Thanks, Shane

 

Ford ID number: E6TA-SA ~ Dana ID number 610255-3 = Dana 60 Front Driving Axle w/a 5,000 lb. capacity / 4.10-1 / Without Limited Slip / With manual locking hubs.

E6 refers to 1986, but the same basic front axle was used throughout the 1980's and into the 1990's.

 

NumberDummy gave you all the info the number will give you. Throw some pics up and we can confirm if it's kingpin or balljoints, and whether it's set up for single or dually rims.

 

Not quite, because I omitted the following from the decode, because it wasn't relative:

E6TA-SA / 610255-3 = Front Driving Axle Parts List # 30.4Z

(2) D6TZ-3115-A .. Upper Ball Joint / (2) D6TZ-3147-A .. Lower Ball Joint.

(2) E5TZ-1102-B .. Hub & Rotor Assy-Use with DRW and: 4.10-1 ratio with 5,000 lb. capacity front driving axle, manual locking hubs // Use wiithout Limited Slip.

Source: 1980/89 Ford Light Truck Parts Catalog

 

Thank You, Bill, it's nice to know the year.