Electrical Problem
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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Good news and bad news. Good news (I think) is my truck seems to be running/starting/working fine. Bad news is I didn't do anything to fix it. I was poking around on it the other day, checking for voltages at key points under certain conditions (etc.) and it started working. The electrical system hasn't misbehaved since.
I spent yesterday putting in a new master cylinder, which then called for a new brake booster when a stud broke (uggghhh). While I had the booster and master cylinder out I took a look at all the connections going through the firewall. Didn't see anything suspicious there, other than the one part of the harness where the old master cyl had been leaking brake fluid on it. I cleaned all that up short of unwrapping the protective plastic and tape. This was one area that was under my suspicion for potential problem, but I didn't see anything obvious and the fluid didn't appear to leak onto any of the connectors.
What makes me nervous is the problem could still be lurking and could leave me stranded at an in opportune time. Normally my truck doesn't get driven that often, but I might start driving to work for a couple weeks to see if I can get the problem to surface again. At least if it acts up then, it won't be that big of a deal to handle. Unlike if I'm out in the backwoods cutting firewood or something.
I spent yesterday putting in a new master cylinder, which then called for a new brake booster when a stud broke (uggghhh). While I had the booster and master cylinder out I took a look at all the connections going through the firewall. Didn't see anything suspicious there, other than the one part of the harness where the old master cyl had been leaking brake fluid on it. I cleaned all that up short of unwrapping the protective plastic and tape. This was one area that was under my suspicion for potential problem, but I didn't see anything obvious and the fluid didn't appear to leak onto any of the connectors.
What makes me nervous is the problem could still be lurking and could leave me stranded at an in opportune time. Normally my truck doesn't get driven that often, but I might start driving to work for a couple weeks to see if I can get the problem to surface again. At least if it acts up then, it won't be that big of a deal to handle. Unlike if I'm out in the backwoods cutting firewood or something.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 2,691
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That's really funny because I drove mine this morning for the first time since Friday and it drove perfectly too. I was out of town for the weekend so it sat. The only thing different between Friday and today is about 40-50 degees. It was less than 10 all last week and today it's 55.
New User
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You know, a friend of mine was also mentioning cold as a culprit. Last few weeks it's been bitter cold (at least for this area anyway) and that's when I've been seeing the problem. Last few days have been a bit of a warming trend though. Man I hope it's truly not related to the cold. That can make it an even bigger PITA to track down than what it already is.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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I think I fixed mine. The battery posts and terminals needed to be cleaning. The pos post was pitted from arcing. I think that's why the truck would sometimes cut off. No more boucing volt meter needle.
Last edited by qman; Feb 12, 2007 at 11:38 AM.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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Turns out that didn't fix it. So this time I took out the alternator and cleaned all the dirt out of it. It looked like something got in there and scraped up the rotor and the stuff that holds the windings together. I cleaned it all out and regreased the bearings. The voltmeter needle hasn't fluctuated yet but I haven't driven much either. I'll keep posted.
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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I haven't touched mine and it's still working just fine. It's only being driven maybe once a week or so, but whatever was causing the problem before would cause the battery to drain in that amount of time (a weak short somewhere).
I've got a new alternator in mine since at one point I thought that's what was killing my batt.
I'm glad it's working, but irritated that I didn't really do anything to fix it and I'm afraid it could leave me stranded.
Thanks for the update. Keep them coming.
I've got a new alternator in mine since at one point I thought that's what was killing my batt.
I'm glad it's working, but irritated that I didn't really do anything to fix it and I'm afraid it could leave me stranded.
Thanks for the update. Keep them coming.
Senior User
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 259
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Could be as simple as the alternator belt being loose. I think they still had the v-belts on the 92's.
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Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Madison Ohio
I would check all your body grounds. I had a lot of problems with my 86 a few years back. I ended up buying some #4 wires with crimps on the ends that take a 5/16 bolt and running one from the battery to the motor , from the motor to the frame, from there to a spot on the cab. That ended 95% of my problems. the last 5 % was just dumb stuff the old owner did and needed replaced.
I would have the same probems whare it would not start, the radio or lights would go out, I could be driving and hit a pot hole and half the truck would go dead untill the next pot hole.
I have noticed on my 88 that they quit bolting ground wires down??? I see a lot of stuff that just clips on to body parts. I think theres one from the frame to the cab. You might have one of those bad / fell off.
I would have the same probems whare it would not start, the radio or lights would go out, I could be driving and hit a pot hole and half the truck would go dead untill the next pot hole.
I have noticed on my 88 that they quit bolting ground wires down??? I see a lot of stuff that just clips on to body parts. I think theres one from the frame to the cab. You might have one of those bad / fell off.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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My 92 has serpentine belt and all pulleys run smooth.
Good stuff Ohio. The ground cable from the battery is long and connects to the starter. Halfway there the insulation is gone and a big clamp is bolted through the wire to the frame. Looks factory. The cab ground seems to be a smallish black wire from the battery cable to the inner fender. But it must be grounds cause the "half the truck go dead" problem is what I'm having. The radio is always going out if I turn on the blinker, hit the brake, turn on the headlights, etc. Sometimes it's the engine that does a real quick "on/off", kind of like a hiccup. I guess I'll get to ground checking this weekend.
Good stuff Ohio. The ground cable from the battery is long and connects to the starter. Halfway there the insulation is gone and a big clamp is bolted through the wire to the frame. Looks factory. The cab ground seems to be a smallish black wire from the battery cable to the inner fender. But it must be grounds cause the "half the truck go dead" problem is what I'm having. The radio is always going out if I turn on the blinker, hit the brake, turn on the headlights, etc. Sometimes it's the engine that does a real quick "on/off", kind of like a hiccup. I guess I'll get to ground checking this weekend.
New User
Joined: Jan 2007
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There's another grounding wire up on the firewall, passenger side. I want to say there's also another engine to body ground on the drivers side, but I'd have to actually look....I might just be having cranial rectosis. Those were among the first things I checked.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
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From: Madison Ohio
Originally Posted by qman
My 92 has serpentine belt and all pulleys run smooth.
Good stuff Ohio. The ground cable from the battery is long and connects to the starter. Halfway there the insulation is gone and a big clamp is bolted through the wire to the frame. Looks factory. The cab ground seems to be a smallish black wire from the battery cable to the inner fender. But it must be grounds cause the "half the truck go dead" problem is what I'm having. The radio is always going out if I turn on the blinker, hit the brake, turn on the headlights, etc. Sometimes it's the engine that does a real quick "on/off", kind of like a hiccup. I guess I'll get to ground checking this weekend.
Good stuff Ohio. The ground cable from the battery is long and connects to the starter. Halfway there the insulation is gone and a big clamp is bolted through the wire to the frame. Looks factory. The cab ground seems to be a smallish black wire from the battery cable to the inner fender. But it must be grounds cause the "half the truck go dead" problem is what I'm having. The radio is always going out if I turn on the blinker, hit the brake, turn on the headlights, etc. Sometimes it's the engine that does a real quick "on/off", kind of like a hiccup. I guess I'll get to ground checking this weekend.
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Cargo Master
Joined: Sep 2004
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Maybe I'll do that. I disconnected the black cable from starter and frame and cleaned the connectors but couldn't do anything about the crimped on part. That didn't fix it. Maybe I'll take it out and see if I can clean it out.
The hiccups I notice are that the radio goes off when I turn on the blinker or hit the brakes or the engine will do a quick offf/on for no reason. These things happen when I'm driving so does anyone know where the ground for the alternator and/or the cab electronics and/or the distributor is?
The hiccups I notice are that the radio goes off when I turn on the blinker or hit the brakes or the engine will do a quick offf/on for no reason. These things happen when I'm driving so does anyone know where the ground for the alternator and/or the cab electronics and/or the distributor is?
Last edited by qman; Mar 15, 2007 at 10:25 AM.
Elder User
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 690
Likes: 1
From: Madison Ohio
well most of your engine electrical will coem through that ground cable from the battery. Probelm you might have is pretty much verything eles runs off that to the frame. Your fuel pump might be cutting out from that. your radio and lights all pick up off body gorunds. those normaly get jumped to the frame. Im telling ya replace that from the battery to the frame and add to the body you will be much happyer.
Fleet Owner
Joined: Aug 2005
Posts: 23,668
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From: Easton,Ks
qman
Do not worry about the crimped on part to the frame. The frame is not used for grounding anything except maybe a ground for a trailer or license plate light if you do not have a factory rear bumper. There are a few static ground straps from the body to the frame if you have a factory radio.
It sounds like you dash ground is becoming hot when you turn on something.
You need to make sure these three grounds a good, G101, G200 and G201.
G101 RH front of engine compartment, front of fender apron:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G101.jpg
G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G200.jpg
G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G201.jpg
If this does not fix it replace both battery cables as they can get intermittent inside the cable at the ends.
Do not worry about the crimped on part to the frame. The frame is not used for grounding anything except maybe a ground for a trailer or license plate light if you do not have a factory rear bumper. There are a few static ground straps from the body to the frame if you have a factory radio.
It sounds like you dash ground is becoming hot when you turn on something.
You need to make sure these three grounds a good, G101, G200 and G201.
G101 RH front of engine compartment, front of fender apron:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G101.jpg
G200 Behind bottom of RH cowl panel:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G200.jpg
G201 Behind bottom of LH cowl panel:
http://i54.photobucket.com/albums/g9...rical/G201.jpg
If this does not fix it replace both battery cables as they can get intermittent inside the cable at the ends.