Part1: see part 2 in the first reply

After waiting over a month for the article to show up, I give up: I'll just post what I had written here. Some of you have heard me mention these in other posts, but others had asked for a little more info on them. Here it is:

I needed somewhere to go with tools and chains and stuff. I was also looking for somewhere to go with the duffel bags, cameras, and stuff that I take when I go out of town most weekends (the dog is in the back seat).

I didn't really want one of the diamond plate ones. On top of being $400+, the couple I looked at sat so high on the bedrails that they blocked most of the rear window and diminished any chance of looking out the back window while backing up. Also, they just didn't give you that much storage after you put a few tools in them. So...I built these 2 boxes.



For reference, I call the one closest to the cab my "toolbox" and the one in the back my "storage box". I'll be hoest - I'm not very handy. I had the idea of building them and basically held the screws while my future step-father-in-law did all the measuring, cutting, and drilling.

My requirements for the boxes:
Come in and out easily
Secure the boxes to the truck itself
Secure the stuf inside (lock the lid)
The storage box doesn't have to be installed to lock the toolbox
Easily open the box and/or remove the box - my old solution had about
6 locks/latches to get anywhere.
Not look like some duct-tape hillbilly job

I wanted the lids to overhand the rails so it would help keep the elements out of the boxes/bed. That would also give me a 48"+ loading surface.

Now for the "features"
1) design
I wanted the lids to look like they were practically sitting on the bedrails. I thought this would help in looks, aerodynamics, waterproofing, and seeing out of the back. As-is, I can still see the top of the tailgate to help me back up.

Both boxes are only 40" wide inside so they can slide inbetween the wheel
wells. I could have made the front toolbox wider (side-to-side), but I wanted it to be able to slide in/out since loaded with chains and tool it could weigh 200lbs. Both boxes are about 17" deep so when sitting in the bed, the top just comes to the bedrails. The toolbox is 17" deep (front to back). Out of simplicity and to save plywood costs, I made the storage box 31" deep (48" plywood - 17" of storage box). It's one big friggin box.

2) tie-downs on top
Since the bedrails are only 46" apart, getting any plywood or drywall to lay in the bed is impossible. I wanted to be able to store stuff on top. Also, I can strap coolers, bags, anything on top and secure it. I have 2 tiedowns in the rear angled twoard the front, two centered on the front toolbox, and one in the center behind the cab. They're routed out to be recessed so that the top remails totally flat. Side-to side, they're at least 48" apart since I think the lids are 57" across. As for weight, we had aboulg 300+ lbs jumping up and down on them and they didn't budge, so I'm not concerned about them breaking.

3) locks
The locks were a major concern of mine. Our goal for the locks was just to "keep a guy honest" because I knew that anyone that wanted in them, or wanted the whole box could get them in a matter of minutes anyway no matter how big of locks I put on it. As I mentioned before, the box I had in there previously was too hard to get into and WAY too hard to get out of the bed. Also, I wanted to keep the top fairly flat for storage so I didn't want big locks or handles on top. I figured the best lock would be a drawer-style cam lock. Just a cylinder that I could recess in the top and lock to the sides. Unforutnately, 1 month later I am just getting the locks delivered because I had a hell of a time finding ones long enough. The plywood plus line-x on top and bottom, and them some room inside meant they needed to be almost 2" long. I'll be installing those tonight.

Securing the boxes to the bed was another concern. I think the aluminum toolboxes that you buy secure to the bedrails with some type of wingnut inside the box. Since all that was on my bedrails was a lid, that option was out. Again, being EASY to take out was a must and having a minimal footprint in the bed when removed. We came up with the "I bolts" (or thats what I call them). Two go through the top of the bed behind the cab through a slit in the toolbox. Once inside, they are clipped just with carabieners. The same setup comes out of the front of the toolbox and into the storage box. Personally, I think this solution is a lot easier than what people have to deal with in the expensive toolboxes.



...and with both boxes out, all you have left is 2 bolts.

 

3) handles
I knew I wanted handles because these things were going to get heavy and awakward. I bought 4, for each box. We put 2 on front and 2 on back so you can hug the box when you pick it up. Same plan for the other box. I stuck with the fairly flat handles so that they would take up as little room as possible.



4) coating
I planned all along on getting the top Line-X'd with the truck. Not only for looks, but that was also going to be the part taking the most beating from the elements. I was going to just use the cheap Durabank to paint the rest. Doing the whole thing as thick as the bed would have cost $650+ in Line-X ($5/sq ft). That obviously wasn't going to happen. I worked out a deal to have him do both boxes lightly for $150. The pain...we had to remove ALL of the hardware (even the piano hinge - 80+ screws alone). I think for the look and the protection, it was well worth it.

So...the moment we've all been waiting for: The Price Tag
The hardware cost about $110
That included:
-2 piano hinges
-4 I bolts
-8 Handles
-5 D-Ring tie-downs
-Lots of screws, nuts, etc

-2 - 4x8 sheets of 5ply 3/4" plywood ~ $40 - i carefully planned each cut to fit in exactly 2 sheets

Lumber/Hardware: $152
Line-X: $150
Total: $300

Update: I just put another $30 into locks, and $10 into more screws. The screws that came with the hinges were too small and pulled out one day. Add to that about another $10 on weatherstripping. So, total cost about $350.

Final Thoughts:
<!-- D(["mb","is as big as one I would have paid $400 for that would have blocked
1/2 of my view. Plus, this is a totally custom look. O yea, and I
have another huge box to put all of the duffel bags and stuff in when
I travel.

Tonneau cover - $700 (for a hard one), it\'s a pain to take on/off and
you loose any hope of putting big stuff inside. Camper shell -
$1,000, nuff said. My 2 custom boxes that can easily be removed with
tons of storage, protection, and a custom look ~ $300.

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</div>",0] ); //--> Time is a major factor. The guy that helped me bulid these is a carpenter and had all of the tools. He is also extremely meticulous, so they are perfect. The edges are even rounded so they look and feel smooth. Keeping that in mind, it took about 12 hours of 2 people's labor.

one box:


two boxes:



Thanks for the complements I've already gotten and hopefully this gives some of you some creative ideas.

Product plug: I had it done at Line-X of St. Louis - (314) 729-1300 by Stan