EGR valve
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
EGR valve
Yes, it can be cleaned. Unless the 302 changed a heck of a lot from 89 to 92 it should be a case of pulling the electrical connector(s) and the vaccuum line then removing it from the side of the intake (two bolts and a gasket I believe) and cleaning the carbon and soot out of it. Take care not to damage the vaccuum diaphram in this process or your efforts will be futile. Just replace the gasket its easier and less apt to have a new one leak. You can check to make certain the valve is even moving if you apply vaccuum to the port on it and watch to see if the shaft running through the center of the valve moves. A faulty or failed EGR valve will most frequently cause rough idle issues and emmissions problems. Non-functioning will usually cause failure on emmissions tests or inordinately high hyrdocarbon readings. I'm not familiar enough with the computer codes to tell you what will come up if it fails. Someone here is I am certain.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Canada
EGR valve
thanks for the reply. I actually have a 351 (5.8l) not a 302. The EGR valve is on the left side of the throttle body (looking from the front) and looks like its connected to the exhaust manifold by a longish pipe...
Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
EGR valve
[updated:LAST EDITED ON 01-14-03 AT 00:56 AM (EST)]Yeah, sorry, 302's and 351's are nearly identical in construction and external components. Cubic inches and head height may be the only real differences that I can think of. Yeah that pipe disappears into the manifold between the 5th and 6th cylinder intake bores I believe.
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Freshman User
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 35
Likes: 0
From: Victoria Canada
EGR valve
I tried taking it off, but I'm afraid of bending something. It looks like the valve itself sits on top of the pipe connected by a big nut and two bolts (on the head). The nut won't budge, so I've put liquid wrench on it overnight. I'm assuming here that the nut will actually turn and disconnect from the EGR valve?
Also, I noticed that when I "rev" the engine, the EGR valve moves up and down with the revs. Is this indicative of a "fine" and working valve?
thnx
Also, I noticed that when I "rev" the engine, the EGR valve moves up and down with the revs. Is this indicative of a "fine" and working valve?
thnx
Post Fiend
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 9,987
Likes: 7
From: Memphis, TN
EGR valve
When you try to break that nut loose, tap it LIGHTLY with a light hammer to help shake the rust loose & work the oil in. Vibration is MUCH better than force.
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Lead Driver
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 9,182
Likes: 12
From: Gateway to the West
EGR valve
Yes to both questions. That nut will come open with a lot of coaxing. It undergoes the same temperature fluctuations that any exhaust hardware does and we all know what a joy those can be to remove after years of flash rust and extreme temperature swings.
And yes, if you can observe the rod in the valve moving it should be working. The thing to check for once you get it off the truck is if there is really any change in the amount of flow through the valve when it does move. I removed an EGR from one of my Cadi's once that had so much carbon encrusted inside it, that nothing was getting through the valve inspite of perfectly normal operation of the mechanical workings of the valve.
And yes, if you can observe the rod in the valve moving it should be working. The thing to check for once you get it off the truck is if there is really any change in the amount of flow through the valve when it does move. I removed an EGR from one of my Cadi's once that had so much carbon encrusted inside it, that nothing was getting through the valve inspite of perfectly normal operation of the mechanical workings of the valve.
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