Good news, bads news.

Good news is I found teak planks 6in by 1in by 80in for the bed. Have to take some final measurements but I think that'l work for me! Psyched about the prospect of a teak bed!

Bad news is I was spraying some undercoating onto the wheel side of my inner fenders before I set them in storage for a few months. The damn stuff is not adhering, after 6 hours its still kind of greasy. The metal was a little cold when I sprayed them, but jeez, its rubber in a can and should adhere to anything. We'll see how they are tomorrow morning. I going to have nightmares of me with a putty knife and some paint reducer removing that stuff. I just painted the inside of the inner fender too. Rats.

 

Check the label and with the supplier. One time we thought we were using a single stage sealer paint and it wasn`t! Of course it couldn`t set up and we had to wash the whole vehicle all off.
Possibly it is too cool so it needs more set up time in this temperature or more heat.

 

I used some spray undercoating years ago and it never hardened (read that "remained greasy"). I ended up removing it all and starting over. What a mess. I was very careful about reading the labels after that! You may have just got the wrong kind of undercoat. BTW, the teak bed will be awesome!

 

When I undercoated the bottom of the cab on my 53, I found that it will not stick to "high zinc weld through primer" I had used this primer around braces and patch panels when doing metal repair and didn't consider the posibility of poor adhesion. Had to remove the undercoat in these areas, sandblast and prime(self etching) again to make it stick.

 

Weld thru primer is a misnomer, it is not meant to be topcoated, but to be used where it will be impossible to paint after welding and needs protection.
Labels and directions are put on there primarily to find out afterwards what went wrong. Most don't read them and/or believe them until then.

 

The Teak will look sweet. Not sure how much you know about finishing Teak. Just to help avoid finishing problems: Keep in mind that Teak is an oily wood, which is why it's great for outdoor use. It presents some finishing challenges, not unlike what you may be experiencing with your slow dry time on undercoating - if that's what's going on. If the teak is really oily, it can take a long time for stain to dry, if you stain it. There are many other things to consider. Find a good resource for finishing it if you're not sure. I'm no expert on that subject, but I know you can get bad results if you try to finish it like you would oak or poplar.

 

True that! I talked about the proper way to finish teak in another thread.

 

I keep trying to call the Permatex tech support line, but its impossible to get through. This stuff is labeled "Heavy Duty Rubberized Undercoating". Man, does that get me PO'd.

Interesting comment on the zinc though. I sprayed it on top of a epoxy primer. It should stick. I'm sure they will apologize and offer to send me a free can if I'm lucky.

BTW, its not greasy wet anymore, but I can rub it off with a fingertip.

Serves me right for using an undercoating for frames, gutters & tree pruning.
Read about it here

 

If you get to the point that you buy the teak and want some advice on finishes, contact me. I take care of a fair amount of teak (finished bright) on a boat.

 

you are going to pick up wome weight using teak.

 

I used Duplicolor rattle can bed liner for painting my firewall it stayed tender for about 2 weeks.

 

Two weeks! Mine lasted two hours for before my 7 year old stuck his finger on it. Well I will let them sit for a some time to see if they adhere or begin to flake. Somehow I see myself holding a drill w/ wire wheel in the near future. With flakes of black rubber stuck all over my forehead & in my clinched teeth. Then I'll track it into the house and my wife will get po'd. Its my destiny.

How much more does teak weigh? It can be significant. I'm 6'3' at 250lbs -- thats significant.

I will contact 49willard & AXracer before even attempt to finish the wood. I doubt that will be this year. When spring hits I'll start working on my old Ch@vy C@rvette. I'm debating whether to convert it into a strip or autocross toy.

 

I worked for a boat manufacturer in the mid 80's and at that time we could not find any finish that would last on teak. We tried polyurethane (several brands), laquers, epoxies and varnishes, nothing worked.
I would be interested in what you have found that works. -- Chuck

 

I prefer a clear tung oil based penetrating finish with UV inhibitor such as Watco or Parks rather than a film coating. Never had any luck with any film system outdoors. Flood it on with a green nylon scrub pad, let soak ~ 10 min rub off the excess with course cloth. give all sides at least three applications. when the wood starts to look dry from exposure, or you scrape or scratch it, sand out scratches with 400 sandpaper and reapply the tung oil as before. I have teak furniture in my store offices that are 20 years old and look like brand new.

 

I've never heard anyone every have problems with undercoating not drying. My guess is the cold weather. I did my bed, friends have done their undercarriage, inside doors for rattles. We usually use the Dupli-color, but the roll on or brush type. We've always put it on in 80 or higher degree weather and it dries within an hour.