hey folks
again, i need some help figuring out what the heck is wrong with my truck.
before i went on vacation to florida, i took the truck to the shop because i had a few problems. i had a whooshing sound coming from the engine while driving that sounds way different than the jet sound at idle when warming up. this whoosh goes away when i blip the throttle or let up on the throttle. also, it will not whoosh when under hard acceleration. then, one morning the ses light came on and the truck did not respond at all when the throttle was pushed in while the light was on. when the light went off, the truck was normal. took it to the local shop and a code for the fuel pedal sensor(the ones on the assembly themselves). had the pedal changed, and the whoosh was gone until the day before we left for florida. while in florida, i had no problems whatever, truck ran great. came home, and the whoosh was instantly back along with a few others. all of the problems go away when the cab of the truck is warm, not the engine bay. well, except for the heater control. no matter what the selection is, the heat comes from the defrost, and no where else. also, on some of the colder nights, when turning the key to warm the plugs, no wait to start light or any other dash lights for that matter. after truck starts, no guages work or again any of the dash lights. while this is happening, the throttle is inop. after the truck heats up, the guages work, the throttle works, and then after a long while, the whooshing stops.
i am at my whits end, of course when i take it to the shop, it doesnt act up at all because it is warm. are all of these things related? i really wnat to know what the heck the whoosh is at it occurs the most. the defrost only i can live with for now, and the no dash lights only happen rarely, twice a week when really cold.
i know this was a long post and i really appreciate any help you can give me
joker

 

Did the shop pull the codes that set the SES light?

The defrost only sounds like a vaccum leak, since the door that controls the air is vaccum operated. Defrost only is it's default position.

 

Yes, electrical gremlins is right. JTharvey is correct on the defrost activation. I don't know if it is vacuum activated at the switch or electrical. At any rate there ought to be a thump when it is cycled.
The whoosh sounds like the EBPV is on unless you nail it. I thought this should not happen but it happened to mine the other day. 20* after sitting a week. Ran like a dog unless I really pushed the pedal until it got good and warm, then went away.
You may have an intermittant fuel bowl heater short causing the startup problems. Are you sure there is no water in the fuel? Try unplugging the fuel heater at the fuel bowl and see if that corrects the startup gremlins.

 

thanx guys, i will try that, and i am \certain that there is no water in fuel, i run additive every week now.

i am having it scanned after work tonite as it did it again this morning
thanx

 

Check the GEM above the fuse panel in the truck and also the back of the fuse panel for signs of moisture damage.

On the whoosh and defrost Tenn and JT nailed it.

 

ok, now the real questions start.

here are the codes that my friend the mechanic pulled.

p0381 glow plug indicator this is the wait to start light on the dash correct? this light is one of the lights on the dash that is in-op until warm.

p0221 pedal position sensor i just had this replaced before christmas with a brand new one from ford

p1139 water in fuel i run diesel conditioner every fillup, so i really dont understand this one, i thought that is what conditioner cleans up (i run desel kleen)

these are the exact same codes that were popping the ses light before christmas.
my friend told me the common link between them is the pcm. what do you guys think about this? i know he is not trying to make a buck off of me because my brother owns the shop that he works at. he thinks that the other common link is that when it warms in the cab, the problems go away. i didnt have any problems in florida

also, when they changed the pedal before christmas, it was cold as now, but for three days it ran like new, until the last day when it came back.

i know tenn01psd you say that it may be the ebpv, if i unplug that tonite, will i have any problem on the commute to work in the morning if i do that, and also, where is the fuel heater located, and will that have any repercussions?
amiller, what is a Gem and what does it do? i dont know how it would have moisture damage, but at this point i will try anything.

thanks guys

 

The GEM is the Generic Electronics Module. It is mounted above the fuse panel under the dash. Some trucks have exibited a leaky windshield gasket and the moisture would find its way to the GEM and Fuse block.

The following is list of GEM controlled functions:

4-wheel drive functions
front and rear wiper/washer
warning chimes
keyless entry
interior and exterior lamps
power windows

 

thanks,
i was just reading your post on can a bad ebpv sensor cause no boost and therefore lack of power ... and now i understand why i still get the whoosh after the truck seems to be warm, but.......
why is the noise different on road than the noise at idle?
also, if i have a clogged tube, wouldnt it cause a problem under hard acceleration? the thing i dont get is that it goes away instantly just by letting up or pushing down on the pedal.
thanks

 

CJ, although you run a fuel additive, have you drained the water seperator? water could have been in there long before the sensor is tripped. Also you probably need to change your fuel filter, once they get moisture in them they tend to swell up and degrade fuel flow. definately change your fillup place for a few weeks.
JT and Tenn got the vacuum prob.
Alan answered about the GEM

Also check fuse #30 in the power block.(fuel htr,etc).

 

bd rummunds,
thanks about the fuel seperator, didnt realize i had one, will go out and do that now, as far as the fuel filter, i forgot to mention that i changed it when i changed the oil before i left on vacation.

 

crazie the PCM uses the EBPS and Pedal position to determine "Load" so a clogged tube can present a low reading to the PCM so it thinks it is a low load situation.

On the sound, at idle there is only 10 -15 psi of backpressure High idle will kick it up a few psi, but at speed backpressure can be 20-40psi depending on load. From what I have seen the PCM will not command the EBPV over about 32psi.

 

ok, so i will clean the tube out asap, cuz i understand now, but why do i not have gauge lights or gauges until warm, maybe a loose connection?
also, will the clogged tube throw the pedal position code?
i really do appreciate all of the help

 

Crazie, there is only one electrical connection on the back of the fuel bowl IIRC and that should be the heater. Unplug that and see if the dash light gremlins go away. Also, make sure your #30 fuse is good. Make sure it does not wiggle in there as this has happened before too. Loose connection means intermittant connection means gremlin.

 

No they are not tied together. I suspect a bad connection under the dash near the GEM or fuse panel.

 

I would skip the EBPV repairs for now until the electrical problem is solved. If you feel that strongly about it, disconnect the electrical connector to the solenoid for the valve. It will throw a code but just slow warmup. Throw a piece of cardboard in front of the grill while it warms up.