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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 12:24 PM
  #16  
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Torque1st
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The candle trick worked for exhaust and manifold bolts on a Ford Contour, Isuzu Trooper, and a Mercury Topaz.

The torch can be used to burn the wax off of the parts after you have them apart.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 06:56 PM
  #17  
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Aerokroil is the best I have used. I have also had good luck with oil of wintergreen.
 
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 09:19 PM
  #18  
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Originally Posted by mantta
Aerokroil is the best I have used. I have also had good luck with oil of wintergreen.
i can't get the O2 sensor out of my 92 Mitsubishi Galant...think oil of wintergreen will do the trick? if i can't get the sensor out still, if the OoW gets on something it shouldn't (sensor, etc) will it damage it?
 
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Old Jan 24, 2007 | 10:10 PM
  #19  
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Most O2 sensors have to be removed warm.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 08:57 AM
  #20  
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I agree with, Torque1st.

Check into anl oxygen 2 sensor sockets, this helps in not stripping the nut. Sometimes the exhaust pipes needs to be dropped.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #21  
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gdawghereiam
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From: in a 82/350/400/at/2wd
i replaced a exhaust manifold on my 360.for a week i shot pb blaster on those bolts everyday and they all came out with no problem.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 09:07 AM
  #22  
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Oil of wintergreen will not damage anything but, it does have a strong odor.
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 06:04 PM
  #23  
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I will only use Howells now-it makes PB blaster seem like water. You can get it on a lot of tool trucks or any TA truck stop. It smells minty it may have wintergreen oil in it
 
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Old Jan 25, 2007 | 06:12 PM
  #24  
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well I just read another thread about wintergreen oil, and apparently its very toxic, which doesn't make sense to me. I thought wintergreen would be safe. Howells has a big label that says non-toxic I guess it doesn't have wintergreen oil in it.
 
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Old Jan 30, 2007 | 07:34 PM
  #25  
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I have had such success with Liquid Wrench that I have not tried all the others. But, if time is of the essence, the candle trick is quicker.

Also, in conjunction with penetrant, shock speeds the process. (tap on it with a hammer, it seems to allow the penetrant to get in more quickly.)

And if it's just a nut or bolt, use a box end wrench and apply pressure to undo, while tapping on the box end. It works great, I have a lot of scarred up wrenches from the process, but rarely do I have scarred up knuckles.
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 12:59 AM
  #26  
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I prefer the PB blaster. Several days ago I read a horror story about a thermostat housing bolt breaking on an aerostar, and I had to replace mine,so I used the PB blaster and carefully removed the bolts, One was very tight but THE PB BUSTER let me remove it, I sprayed and rocked it back and forth till it freed up
 
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Old Jan 31, 2007 | 06:03 PM
  #27  
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PB Blaster used by the dozer mechanic for the John Deere, he got me started on it and It Is Great. The label looks like a "But Wait!..." commercial lol.

Have a gallon of Aero-Kroil, still use it too.

Good 'ol WD-40 if I want to leave a coating on something.

HotWrench usually works if nothing else does, like ya' said. Or break it ugh.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:35 PM
  #28  
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I gotta give a plug to the Kroil made by Kano. I have used the stuff for close to 30 years and I don't think it has ever failed. I like it a lot better than the PBB. I use the regular stuff, never even knew about the Aero Kroil.

http://www.kanolabs.com/
Me and a coworker used a little of it to get some 111,000 mile O2 sensors out of his Taurus last week and they came right out. We prelubed them for a couple days ahead of time.

The stuff does have a slight odor that is pretty persistent but I actually like the smell - brings me back to the old days, if only in my mind.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 06:40 PM
  #29  
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I use either Aero Kroil or BP Blaster. After learning that WD-40 is banned on the aircraft at work, I don't use it on the vehicles anymore.
 
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Old Feb 5, 2007 | 07:28 PM
  #30  
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i work for the state,we use gibb's,it's in a spray can.it will take the rust off over night.it even will craw out of the can.
 
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