Just had my 05 F350 into dealer as it has been doing the same thing. they quoted me $324.99 to replace LRO backup sensor & bumper harness ***..clear DTC's & will need to retest..further daig and testing may be needed. This sounds like alot to me. What is it costing others to get fixed. The truck only has 52K on it.

 

Kitfox,<O</O

If you are a bit handy and (if your up here in the northeast) have a warm garage, try trouble shooting and maybe you can save yourself some money. I searched the forums and read as much as I could, and did get some great advice. It took some patients on my part and some crawling under the truck but I was able to find the problems and for only the price of one rear sensor mine is working fine.

First check your fuses and make sure they are ok, and from there make a visual check of your wiring and rear harness. You already know which sensor is out so if you do buy 1 sensor and try to replace it may work for you. I have found that some of these connections looked fine, and I didn’t mess with them because they looked ok, but I went back and cleaned them (I used CRC electronic cleaner spray) and nothing… I was give some advise on checking another connection on the side of the tranny and did clean it and still nothing. Then I decided to once again try the removal of each sensor, one by one and replace it with the new one. And I was able to find the bad sensor and mine is working great. Electronics can be a real pain but persistence paid off for me. I in fact had 2 problems and I was able to save some cash and have a better understanding of the system and if this happens again I have no doubt I will feel comfortable getting my hands dirty.<O</O

 

Shoobear:

PM Sent

 

Hey, I have the same problem on my 2002 F350. As soon as I put the truck in reverse, the light on the switch lights up, and stays lit until I turn the truck off. Is the consensus here that the wiring harness was the problem? Thanks.

 

I've been monitoring this thread because like you canuck. My RSS light stays on and I haven't seen any way to bench test components. I'm hoping someone comes foreward with a fix that i will do in the spring. It's just too friging cold out now.
Rich.

 

From what I have been able to gather is there are 3 major components of this system and numerous connections which your dealer won't clean... They just replace things because thats where they make their money.

I was able to buy my sensor online at one of the Ford dealers and (thanks to heat in the barn) slid under and trouble shoot.

Any electrical problem can be a pain so perseverance is a must. One member of a forum gave me a hint on a place to check and after I did clean and check the connection, which didn’t look bad at all, my RSS still did not work. My problem was that I had 2 problem areas and that can be trickily. Don’t give up but remember that the plug in connections on the sensors (and almost everywhere) can be damaged if your not careful when you take them apart. Clean them well and be careful of the clips… Even if the connection looks good try electronics cleaner on it as you may not be able to see corrosion inside of the small connections. Some suggested the use of Dielectric grease on the connections to future the life… It can’t hurt.

 

I haven't solved my system yet. I have removed every connector at the sensor and used 1 new one to test. Still only the light in the button stays on. I did observe the harness to the sensors was in really bad shape with all of the connectors being sufficently blasted by dirt and sand. I have bought a new harness and plan to recheck the sensors.


How do the sensors come out of the bumper. And what a it is to work around the receiver. I will eventually solve my issue and haven't been in a rush.

 

Mine fit into a plastic like sleeve that stay in the bumper. They were all the same with the tabs being located at 1 and <?xml:namespace prefix = st1 ns = "urn:schemas-microsoft-com[img] /><st1:time Hour=[/img]5 o’clock</st1:time> position. I used a make shift tool, and old ice pick that is bent, and a small screwdriver and carefully lifted the tabs away from the sensor… They should slide right out the back side… I did clean the sleeve up before re-inserting the sensors.
The electrial connection has 1 tab and there is where you need to be carefull.

 

Glad to see I am not the only guy who is having trouble with these sensors. I just hate paying the dealers these big prices for replaceing parts when it is likely just some little thing like a bad connection. Mine started when the truck was new and I had it back to the dealer several times and it would work for a while and then quite again. I have just left it until this winter. Now I have a warm shop to work in I am going to take a look at it. Any help is greatly appricated. Also when I was changing the oil I noticed that the main drag link ends are loose. They don't have any grease fittings on them and appear to just be a rubber type bushing. The truck has only about 50K of highway miles on it. Anyone else having this on their truck?

 

Yes I have replaced mine on the Ex 4x4 already.

<TABLE style="WIDTH: 352pt; BORDER-COLLAPSE: collapse" cellSpacing=0 cellPadding=0 width=470 border=0 x:str><COLGROUP><COL style="WIDTH: 203pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 9910" width=271><COL style="WIDTH: 48pt" width=64><COL style="WIDTH: 101pt; mso-width-source: userset; mso-width-alt: 4937" width=135><TBODY><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 203pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=271 height=17>Front stabalizer link Pass Side</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 48pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=64></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; WIDTH: 101pt; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" width=135>1C3Z-5K483-BA</TD></TR><TR style="HEIGHT: 12.75pt" height=17><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; HEIGHT: 12.75pt; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent" height=17>Front stabalizer link Driver Side</TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent"></TD><TD style="BORDER-RIGHT: #ece9d8; BORDER-TOP: #ece9d8; BORDER-LEFT: #ece9d8; BORDER-BOTTOM: #ece9d8; BACKGROUND-COLOR: transparent">1C3Z-5K483-BB</TD></TR></TBODY></TABLE>

 

Ok,
here is the update....
Crawled under a slushy dripping truck. Yahoo!
Replaced the rear wire harness. I bought one new sensor and tried it in every one. No luck. I have a extra module for under the glove box area also,still no luck.
So...how do i clear the DTC code?
I will get some contact spray for all the plugs tomorrow....

 

Don't forget the plug that goes into the transmission. Thats where I think my problem was. Its on the drivers side and near two 8 or 10 mm bolts. When I took it apart it didn't look bad at all. But I still used some spray cleaner on it and pluged it back in. Then once again I replaced the sensors and problem fixed.

As for the trouble codes I would say you could clear them with a scanner tool or a tool like an XCal in case you have reprogamed your trucks ICM. I have both Troyer and Jusnes tunes and use the XCal to upload the tune to the ICM.
(at least I think its called an ICM) May be wrong but it the brain or computer as refered to on the forum boards.

Keep us posted...

 

I have the same problem on my excursion after replacing bumper does anyone know how to reprogram it

 

the speaker module is located behind the glovebox, correct? I just ordered on to replace mine as it quit a couple of weeks ago while hooking up the trailer. Guess your not actually suppose to use it!

 

Sorry, I can't seem to help either one of you... As far as programming goes you may have to consult the dealer. I have a 04 S/cab so my location may be different, but I think mine is located under the dash on the driver’s side.