I posted last week re: weird problem involving all cluster gauges, radio, info center, and most other interior electrical functions inoperative after driving over small bumps.

Took truck ('04 F250 V10) in to dealer, problem diagnosed as faulty ground splice identified as "CIRCUIT 676 COLOR PK/OG LOOM 14401 SPLICE 201 GROUND 300." This resides right behind the instrument panel and required removal of the panel for access. When I asked S/A if this was a common issue, all he'd say is that this wasn't the first time they'd seen the problem.

Hopefully if someone runs across this issue you'll be better-armed to fix it.

-Randy

 

Glad they found it..sometimes they can be hard to find..


Dick

 

I have a problem with the fuse blowing for the instrument cluster. Do you think that might be the problem? Some days I go through 3 fuses just to keep the speedometer working!

 

No you have a short he had an open connection..Best way to find your problem would be to install a new fuse and go under the dash and wiggle wires and see if you can get it to blow. Check shift linkage for interferance..


Dick

 

99f350sd is correct: my issue was an open circuit - no current path (think of it this way: in my case, numerous circuits were tied to a common ground (return) point, and that point failed, so the circuits became inop yet the fuses were intact). When fuses blow it is due to an over-current (as in, too much current flow) condition. Typical causes of such a condition include: short circuit (a shunt around a resistive component) or a faulty / failing component, ie., electronic components can sometimes fail as a short. In my experience, silicon is usually the last thing to fail. So, stick with the short circuit condition.

If as you indicate, the same fuse is always blowing, your job is made (much) easier, as you can immediately narrow down the suspects to those circuits behind that particular fuse. Don't trust the owner's manual - to do it right you really need a diagram of all circuits fed by that fuse. Again, 99f350sd is correct in that a fast way to attempt to locate the problem is to physically move the wires around - you're looking for a damaged wire that is in close proximity to a piece of bare metal, or some other ground path. Try to simulate what happens when the truck is being driven. Oh, and it's important to have whatever load is fed by this fuse turned on (current flowing) else you'll never find it.

Identify the circuit(s) of interest, and starting from the fuse block, trace them back to their loads (eg., the radio, heater blower, etc.). If that doesn't work, start disabling/disconnecting the various loads on the circuit until you stop blowing fuses (much more time consuming). Good luck.

 

Thanks for posting a followup. Good info.

 

Had the same problem you have took it to ford, no problem found. One day I was working on cab light, I just touched it and the fuse blem again, Unscrewed light assembly and found A spacer wasn't put in right, letting in short out.